I bought one of these http://www.amazon.co.uk/Primrose-Lon...sr=1-1-catcorr around 4 years ago and put it on my plot, however the wife now wants it in the backyard so I've emptied it and took it home. However has anyone got the instructions for one of these as I know it gave the quantities of compost and there was a particular type of stone or sand to use along with instructions for adding fertilizer. Hope someone can help.
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I must admit, I was glad to see the back of mine, I found that when you watered via the tube the pots on the sides dried out, then when you tried to fill the pots with water, soil spewed out all over. I don't miss it. Sorry.sigpic“Gorillas are very intelligent, but they don't have to be as delicate as chimps -- they can just smash open the termite nest,”
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I've got one of these recently, still have the instructions - I'll dig them out tomorrow.
I'd been intending to ask about it on here actually - the instructions aren't very clear and insist on using peat, I was going to see if anyone had suggestions.
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The reason they insist on a peat based medium is its water retention qualities.
I had one a few years ago and like BM was glad to see the back of it. My strawbs are now in hanging baskets and wall mounted troughs.
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Choosing the correct compost mixture if fundamental to success. Disappointing results will follow the use of unsatisfactory mixtures. The ideal compost mixture is one that retains water and nutrients for a long period but does not become water logged through over overwatering. The mixture should consist of two thirds (20 litres/25Kg) by one third of perlite (20 litres) or coarse grit (20 litres/25Kg). These ingredients are obtainable from most garden centres. There should be no deviation from this mixture otherwise there could be plant failures particularly if the compost has been overwatered. The incorporation of garden soil or home made compost must never be considered. If the peat based compost foes not already contain one of the slow release fertilizers such as "Ficote 140" or "Osmacote", this should be obtained if possible and added to the mixture. The incorporation of either one of these fertilizers will save the need for liquid feeding during the first growing season of the plants. Some sand/peat composts are so dry that the mixture runs out of the holes of the tub. This may be prevented by moistening the mixture with a moderate amount of water.
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I had one, hated it.
I had a plastic wall-hanging one, hated it.
Then last year we had a stackable tower: all but one of the strawberries died.
The ones in the ground grow like weeds thoughAll gardeners know better than other gardeners." -- Chinese Proverb.
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Had one of these years ago and gave up on it.
Better results can be gained from stacking large pots. Think of the ceramic type you buy in three's at the supermarket, but any large pots of different sizes would work. Fill all with compost then stack them, largest at the bottom. Plant your strawb plants around the 'terraces' of compost visable around the two lower posts and in the top pot.
This is much easier to keep watered because the soil is level and the water filters down the pots, the roots in the lower pots are kept cooler under the pot above and the strawberries are kept clean as they hang down the sides. What's not to like?Whether you think you can or whether you think you can't, you are probably right.
Edited: for typo, thakns VC
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It all sounds and looks like a bit of a faff to me. I mean is it to save space or something that all these various containers stack plants on top of each other? Do any commercial growers use this method? A few people on my allotment site grow their strawberries in troughs or growbags on top of old tables. Easier to crop and easier to manage pests I guess
I just stick mine in the ground .
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