Gardening terms, explained

Confused by horticultural terms and techniques? Our easy guide will help you get the most from your plot

If you are new to gardening, the terminology can be a bit confusing! But remember, gardeners are a friendly bunch, so if you’re ever stuck, don’t be afraid to ask a plot neighbour or chat to other growers online. To help you get started, here are a few key terms you might find useful…

TERMS AT A GLANCE

Annual: A plant that has a life cycle lasting one year, and should be disposed of after this period

Biennial: A crop that takes two years to complete its full life cycle, from germination of the seeds, right through to harvesting

Bolting:The effect of temperature changes on certain edibles such as radish and lettuce. The unexpected warmth causes the plant to produce seed early, which may reduce the quality of the harvests

Chitting: This term refers to the process of sprouting potato tubers ahead of planting by placing them in a light, frost-free environment

Cloche: A protective covering made from glass, plastic or fleece, used to raise soil temperatures for germination and protect crops from pests, diseases and severe weather

Dibber: This is a sowing tool that creates an impression in the earth to provide the right depth and spacing to bury seeds on the plot or in containers

Drill: A line imprinted in the soil to use as a guide when sowing seeds. This is usually created by a dibber or a hoe, but can also be achieved with your fingertip, if preferred!

Dwarf varieties: Certain cultivars of fruit and veg which are bred to be able to be grown in smaller spaces, for example, dwarf apple trees in pots
Forcing: Covering plants such as rhubarb with a container to create higher temperatures and restrict light so that they mature out of season

Glut: An excess harvest of a certain crop – commonly used when referring to courgettes!

Maincrop: A type of vegetable produced as the principle crop of the growing season – for example, maincrop potatoes rather than first or second early types of spud

Mulch: A material used to cover the surface of the soil on the plot or in containers in order to maintain moisture and suppress weeds. This is usually made up of decaying leaves (leafmould), wood chippings or garden compost

Perennial: A plant that has a life span of over two years. Edibles in this category can continue to produce harvests over consecutive seasons

Pot up: Moving container-grown veg into larger pots to give the roots more space and boost the soil with more nutrients as the plant grows

Propagate: Creating new plants from existing parent crops by sowing saved seeds, growing cuttings or grafting

Prune: Cutting back dying growth from edibles to encourage healthy development or to keep the plant dormant through winter

Rootstock: An underground part of a tree from which the above ground growth is produced. This can control the eventual size of the tree

Seedling: The young version of a plant, germinated from seed. The development of a seedling starts when the seed germinates

COMMON METHODS
Pricking out: This refers to the technique of removing the seedlings from a seed tray and transferring them into pots to allow them the space they need to develop further. It needs to be done gently to avoid any damage to the roots, and you should always hold onto the leaves instead of the stem, as the seedling can grow new leaves, but if the stem breaks, the plant will die. It’s best to prepare the new environment beforehand to limit the amount of time that the seedling is unsettled. Once you’ve replanted, water the soil generously to help them settle in.

Thinning seedlings: Some veg such as carrots should be sown thickly to maximise the chances of a successful crop. However, once germination occurs, you will need to decide which plants are the healthiest and remove the weaker ones to allow more space. This is done by gently pulling the young plants from the ground with your fingers, being careful not to disturb the roots of the seedlings you wish to continue growing. You can place the stragglers in another space on your plot, or use them as microgreens if they are suitable for this.

Hardening off: Crops that have germinated inside should have time to adjust to these harsher conditions before they can be moved outside permanently. Colder temperatures and even harsh winds can damage delicate edibles that have been cared for under cover up until this point. By leaving your veg outside for increasing periods over two to three weeks, you’ll allow them to gradually become accustomed to their new environment and make them more likely to thrive on the plot. This is known as hardening off.

Puddling in: This method can be completed just before transplanting thirsty edibles, such as leeks, into their final positions. Many crops suffer from stress after being moved, especially if the roots are disturbed too much, and this may stunt growth and reduce quality. To use the ‘puddling in’ technique, dig a hole to the depth and width of the root system, then fill this with water. Allow the liquid to drain away before planting and filling back in with soil. This provides an instant boost of moisture.

Pinching out: While the effects of this method have been largely debated by gardeners, there has been evidence to suggest that removing the side shoots of tomatoes (which is the growth between the stem and a truss of leaves) helps the plant to focus on fruit production. To give this a try, grab the shoot between two fingers and wiggle backwards and forwards until it snaps off. As the crop matures, you may have to use a sharp knife or secateurs instead to complete this job.

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