Any plumbers out there?

[Potstubsdustbins]

Well I have enjoyed tonight but my shower and a dram call. SWMBOs boiler swap nedds to be completed in the day otherwise I may get problems, so its a biggy tomorrow.

Good night all and Joanna any questions just ask.

Colin

[peanut]

I have a set of drain rods too But I wouldn't have the confidence to change the expansion vessel - so good on you both!!! Hope it all goes smoothly for you

You have drain rods too....excellent!!!

Well if I do it successfully I'm sure you can....thanks for the support!

[Potstubsdustbins]

Thats the ones sticky hose on and using spanner or a pair of grips (pliers wont give you the torque) open as in the same direction as a tap. If you find one on or near the boiler thats the one to use. No fresh water will enter the system until you have finnished and you refill using the filling loop just like topping up the pressure and after a few months of doing it you must have an 'A level' in topping up by now.

Good night folks catch you on the morrow.

Colin

[veggiechicken]

You have drain rods too....excellent!!!

Well if I do it successfully I'm sure you can....thanks for the support!

My brother's a plumber so I'd call on him instead!!
I've learnt a lot from this tonight. I'll look at my boiler in a new light now. Good luck!!!

[peanut]

Thats the ones sticky hose on and using spanner or a pair of grips (pliers wont give you the torque) open as in the same direction as a tap. If you find one on or near the boiler thats the one to use. No fresh water will enter the system until you have finnished and you refill using the filling loop just like topping up the pressure and after a few months of doing it you must have an 'A level' in topping up by now.

Good night folks catch you on the morrow.

Colin

Hi Colin,

I've ordered the vessel so that will be here tomorrow.

Which of these makes of inhibitor is best? Heating Inhibitors, Cleaners , Additives, Fernox

Also is it worth me getting some kind of sealing thing to put in the unit to help prevent any leaks in the pipes?

The one thing that does worry me is actually disconnecting the vessel from the pressure gauge etc....do you need a special kind of tool for that?

When I drain the boiler, i think there's a valve at the bottom, how much water should I expect?
If I drain the boiler do I still have to drain the rads?

The rest seems pretty straight forward.....famous last words!!

[taff]

nothing to add except good luck

[peanut]

Thank you!!

[Potstubsdustbins]

First inhibitor google Fernox Express F1 its the one I use mainly because it is so simple to use its like an aerosol so this can be put in the system through a radiator when the job is finnished. That way if you do get a problem and have to drain down again you won't have wasted the inhibitor.

Next leak sealant, your boiler will have a plate heat exchanger for hot water production, chemical leak sealers can block these and that would be really expensive so no don't use any.

On to the job in hand. First allow yourself plenty of time 2 to 3 hours that way you won't get stressed.

Its hard to know how much water is in your system without knowing how many rads and what size they are but an average 7 rad system will hold well plus of 100ltrs and you will have to drain all the system.

First safety turn of the electrics at the isolator switch and remove the fuse that way if you have a problem and spill any water it won't mix with electricity and straighten your hair or kill you.

Next make sure the valve you use to top up the system pressure is turned off. Attach hose to drain cock and open valve with a spanner. When you see water running from the hose open all the vents on your upstairs radiators to allow air into the system and the water out. Next we twiddle out thumbs until the water stop running from the hose, then we close the drain cock and radiator air vents before we remove the expansion vessel. Bucket and old cloths to hand undo the nut between the expansion vessel and the flex connector and making sure the washer is in place screw on the new vessel. Tighten the nut usning the same amount of force you had to use to undo it.

When your happy open the valve you use to top up the system and you will hear water running into the system let the pressure gauge rise to 2 bar (this will take longer than you are used to as it will now have to compress the rubber membrane. At 2 bar check for leaks on the drain cock and pressure vessel, if your happy start to vent you radiators. Start at the radiator nearest the boiler. As you are venting you will have to keep going back and topping up the system pressure to 2 bar. When you get to the last radiator only top up to 1 bar before you vent that radiator that way when you are finnished the system will not be over pressured and you will be able to set the pressure to 1 bar which as we discussed is the correct working pressure.

Replace fuse, switch on, jobs done. There you go one new heating engineer.

Colin

[Potstubsdustbins]

Right back to SWMBOs new boiler she's do home in a coulple of hours and I want the job done, catch you later.

Potty

[peanut]

First inhibitor google Fernox Express F1 its the one I use mainly because it is so simple to use its like an aerosol so this can be put in the system through a radiator when the job is finnished. That way if you do get a problem and have to drain down again you won't have wasted the inhibitor.

Next leak sealant, your boiler will have a plate heat exchanger for hot water production, chemical leak sealers can block these and that would be really expensive so no don't use any.

On to the job in hand. First allow yourself plenty of time 2 to 3 hours that way you won't get stressed.

Its hard to know how much water is in your system without knowing how many rads and what size they are but an average 7 rad system will hold well plus of 100ltrs and you will have to drain all the system.

First safety turn of the electrics at the isolator switch and remove the fuse that way if you have a problem and spill any water it won't mix with electricity and straighten your hair or kill you.

Next make sure the valve you use to top up the system pressure is turned off. Attach hose to drain cock and open valve with a spanner. When you see water running from the hose open all the vents on your upstairs radiators to allow air into the system and the water out. Next we twiddle out thumbs until the water stop running from the hose, then we close the drain cock and radiator air vents before we remove the expansion vessel. Bucket and old cloths to hand undo the nut between the expansion vessel and the flex connector and making sure the washer is in place screw on the new vessel. Tighten the nut usning the same amount of force you had to use to undo it.

When your happy open the valve you use to top up the system and you will hear water running into the system let the pressure gauge rise to 2 bar (this will take longer than you are used to as it will now have to compress the rubber membrane. At 2 bar check for leaks on the drain cock and pressure vessel, if your happy start to vent you radiators. Start at the radiator nearest the boiler. As you are venting you will have to keep going back and topping up the system pressure to 2 bar. When you get to the last radiator only top up to 1 bar before you vent that radiator that way when you are finnished the system will not be over pressured and you will be able to set the pressure to 1 bar which as we discussed is the correct working pressure.

Replace fuse, switch on, jobs done. There you go one new heating engineer.

Colin

Here we go with the start of my silly questions:

1. Hose? What kind of hose, I guess you mean i push the hose on the end and run it outside to drain...i've looked at my garden hose and i don't think it will fit? (It's a standard hoselock hose)

2. There are 2 points where the flexi hose connects to the vessel, the one to the top up valve and the one to the outlet pipe....I assume I unscrew both of these to release the vessel....I can then unhook the vessel with the pressure gauge attached. I take it that I can then unscrew the pressure gauge and the big multi point joint from the broken vessel and connect it up to the new one then put it back in and reconnect to both flex hoses.

3. Did you say to replace the washers or was that for the other scenario...if i do need to, do i replace all 3...if so what size will they be?


Still looking forward to doing this....just hope i don't mess it up!!

[Potstubsdustbins]

Standard garden hose should fit and drain cock, warm the hose with boiling water to make it more pliable.

Yep undo both hoses and remove the vessel, you will need a hefty pair of grips to remove the valve from the expansion vessel and some PTFE tape to make the new joint.

I beat SWMBO new boiler in floors mopped wtih 15 minutes to spare.

[peanut]

Standard garden hose should fit and drain cock, warm the hose with boiling water to make it more pliable.

Yep undo both hoses and remove the vessel, you will need a hefty pair of grips to remove the valve from the expansion vessel and some PTFE tape to make the new joint.

I beat SWMBO new boiler in floors mopped wtih 15 minutes to spare.

Aah....so is the drain cock the same size as a standard outdoor tape then?

That's that white tape isn't it....think i've got some of that somewhere that the plumber left last time.....


I bet you wear your pants on the outside of your trousers too don't you?!! .....my plumbing hero!!

[Potstubsdustbins]

Joanna if I did that SWMBO would bin me in a flash.

Yep it is the white tape. To apply it correctly hold the valve in your left hand with the threads pointing to the right and wind the tape on to the thread away from your body. That way when you wind the valve into the new vessel the tape will bit into the threads not come unwound so to speak. Apply 3 to 4 layers of tape to get a good seal.

Colin

[peanut]

Good morning.....me again!!

I've tried to measure the nut which sits directly on top of the expansion vessel to make sure I have a spanner that will fit it before I begin my mission.

I think it is about 35mm x 5mm.....does this sound about right to you?

Getting excited as all my bits are delivered today....

[peanut]

One more thing......

Do I have to drain the entire system....I have isolation valves on the pipes from the boiler to the rads/hot water etc....couldn't i just drain down the boiler?