Any plumbers out there?

[peanut]

All 3 pics correct, it looks like the nut/plug has got some kind of fancy plastic cap on it, this should flip off using a flat blade screwdriver.

Open any of the radiator valves but I suggest the one below the plug as you will be able to reach this whilst supporting the aerosol can. I think you will get a clearer idea when you get your hands on the black adaptor. The idea of opening the valve is to give the cleansing liquid somewhere to go when you squeeze the trigger.

As to the amount the aerosol contains the correct amount of liquid for the job and it will inject it all in one go.

Colin

Thanks for clarifying Colin.

So here's my summary of what I need to do:

1. Have spanner, tape, jug and towels.
2. Turn off both valves.
3. Bleed rad till water stops.
4. Close tap.
5. Undo nut and screw in cleanser.
6. Undo valve below.
7. Inject Cleanser.
8. Close valve again.
9. Remove Cleanser.
10. Replace nut.
11. Open both valves again.

Job done?

Does the radiator automatically fill itself back up?
Do I need to be careful of airlocks in this rad at all after this?

[Potstubsdustbins]

Me using the wrong terminology again I wrote check vent which is what we say when you would say bleed the radiator.

On the radiator you have been working on just check after you are finnished that all the air from that rad is removed there should be no problem with any others.

As you are working from the top of the rad you will loose very little water out of the rad.

It will of course raise the pressure in the system slightly but this is nothing to worry about.

Your list is spot on.

Colin

[peanut]

Me using the wrong terminology again I wrote check vent which is what we say when you would say bleed the radiator.

On the radiator you have been working on just check after you are finnished that all the air from that rad is removed there should be no problem with any others.

As you are working from the top of the rad you will loose very little water out of the rad.

It will of course raise the pressure in the system slightly but this is nothing to worry about.

Your list is spot on.

Colin

Horrah!! I almost feel as if I know what I am doing again

Just a thought...if it arrives tomorrow before I switch the boiler back on, I guess it would be fine to do it with the system cold?


Looking forward to learning a new skill.....Peanut the Plumber


*So this cleaning stuff....it just works it's way through the central heating system, picking up/absorbing grime etc....then gets flushed out? Curious as to how it works...

[Potstubsdustbins]

Yes it would be fine to do it with the system cold.

How it works.

The main problem is that central heating systems contain a vareity of metals all connected by water this can allow electrolysis to occur which will lead to the decomposition of some of the metals. Giving rise to the black sludge you found. Whilst this is not usually a problem constantly introducing fresh oxygenated water (topping up the pressure) will increase its effect many times. Todays boilers are fitted with very high performance heat exchangers with restricted water ways and these can become blocked with the sludge, hence the invention of power flushing.

The cleansing agent you are going to inject breaks down the sludge and puts it into suspension in the water, you can then flush it out of the system. The water you flush out may not even look very dirty thats because the particles of sludge are now mixed through out the system waters not gathered at a low point on the system.

For best effect the central heatig should be run for about an hour a day for a week. Then warm the system up, turn of the electrics, hose pipe to drain cock (do not use the discharge valve) open drain cock fully and then open all the air pips on the upstairs radiators. When the water finnish's running close the air pips refill the system run it up until its warm then repeat the draining proceedure.

Close the drain cock injet inhibitor into a radiator, refill system as before jobs a goodun.

Colin of for his shower and a dram. Goodnight all catch you on the morrow.

[cardiffsteve]

This is better than any thriller I've read.
How will it end?
Will the radiator fall off the wall?
Will the black stuff leak on the carpet?
Will the boiler explode?
Or as I suspect it will all end happily.

See next week's exciting episode

[veggiechicken]

I agree, CS, it is sooooo gripping I predict that
1. "Potty and Peanuts go plumbing" will be become a best seller
2. Peanuts will have a change of career and do a plumbing apprenticeship
3. Potty will write a Dummies Guide to plumbing whilst nursing a dram in his other hand.

[cardiffsteve]

"Potty and Peanuts go plumbing"

Think I've seen the video
Bit raunchy

[Potstubsdustbins]

VC the dummies guide presents one major problem. It takes me longer to write about a job than to do it.

Sorry Steve wrong video I just don't do raunchy

Potty.

[cardiffsteve]

Finally, my Plumbing business is getting really busy...

It's all cisterns go.

[peanut]

Not a good day....still got a leak , pressure still dropping, seems to lose it faster than before I applied the sealant.

Will apply more sealant either tonight or tomorrow morning.

Cleanser didn't arrive, will be here Monday, but I may have lost the will to live by then.


*Just turned boiler off, released pressure, so will apply more sealant when cold enough.

[Potstubsdustbins]

How goes it?

Colin

[peanut]

How goes it?

Colin

Oh woe is me!!!

So...I re-sealed the nut on the expansion vessel on Sunday....turned it on this morning....and IT'S STILL LEAKING!!

There is some good news, which is, unlike the other day when it lost pressure badly, it is now holding pressure really well (even with the leak). I topped it up to 1 bar when cold first thing and it's still reading about 1.6 bar.

Now....thinking back to when the expansion vessel was re connected....I remember my friend wasn't able to tighten the nut fully as it left the pressure gauge at a right angle to the vessel.....he actually had to turn it back half a turn......


So, my Cyber Plumbing Guru.....is there a way, a knack, of tightening the nut fully and still getting the presure gauge in line with the expansion vessel?


I think i'm left with no option but to undo everything, drain the boiler and try again


So frustrated with it.

[Potstubsdustbins]

No Knack I am afraid, I am presuming the pressure gauge assembly as a 'male' thread i.e. it goes into the expansion vessel?

If this is so he should have taken it out when it did not line up and added more PTFE tape so that it stop in the right place.

Is it possible to give it another 1/2 turn and still have the vessel in the correct position or will the gauge catch on something?

Worry not we will sort it it may just take a little more time.

I am going to say this though I know I don't need to. Don't put any additives into the system until we have the leak sorted.

Colin

[peanut]

No Knack I am afraid, I am presuming the pressure gauge assembly as a 'male' thread i.e. it goes into the expansion vessel?

If this is so he should have taken it out when it did not line up and added more PTFE tape so that it stop in the right place.

Is it possible to give it another 1/2 turn and still have the vessel in the correct position or will the gauge catch on something?

Worry not we will sort it it may just take a little more time.

I am going to say this though I know I don't need to. Don't put any additives into the system until we have the leak sorted.

Colin

Not sure if I'm going to be able to explain this but i'll try.....

The expansion vessel has a threaded bit sticking out of the top, then you have the nut, then the arm that holds the vessel in the boiler, then you screw the pressure gauge on top of all those and onto the threaded bit of the vessel...you have to hold the vessel still and screw the pressure gauge onto it.

He screwed it down as hard as he could but then had to turn back half a turn as he hadn't got the gauge inline with the vessel.

This has to be the cause of the problem doesn't it?


I don't think it will be possible to turn the gauge down onto the vessel anymore, I might give it a try but I doubt it will work.


So when i attempt it again, are you saying i need to make sure there is enough PTFE tape on to stop the nut turning at the right place, so quite a bit of tape?

[Potstubsdustbins]

Ha.

To explain so we get this right. Before PC the way to describe a thread in plumbing was a male thread and a female thread. The male thread goes into the female thread so now of course its sexist.

Any way lets see if I have this right the expansion vessel has a male thread sticking out the top. Onto this you screw your large nut running it down until it gets to the end of the thread near the expansion vessel. Onto this goes the support bracket and finale on top of this goes the gauge assembly.

Is that correct?

Colin