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Sorry Nicos, I don't think I was very clear. I was just wondering how much of a difference the thermal layer would make, considering tiles (i.e. the new pretty ones) tend to be a fairly cold surface anyway. Hope you find something that works for you
Thanks AIC...I always tend to over research stuff, but I'm really keen on at least trying to conserve some heat in the kitchen floor without heating an underwater stream!!
Nicos the link I put up had three products, one of which was Fermacell Bonded Levelling Compound - which has polystyrene in it and provides 'structural and thermal' performance.
hi there whichever way you tackle this you need to have written permission from the landlord (if renting) and please please don't use any pond liners etc lol. if the concrete is thick and solid enough e.g no movement at all then there would be no real issues if you ripped out the old tiles and laid new ones, and to insulate here are the steps that any builder/tiler should be advising and quoting for (in England anyway).......
1, cement based adhesive (non flexible or flexible doesn't really matter
2, insulation boards (whatever the desired thickness)
3, underfloor heating matts/wires (optional)
4, self levelling compound (also optional depending on circumstance but when using
underfloor heating IS essential).
5, than the tiles would go on top of all the above, the adhesive used will be dependent
on your choice of tile
just remember if you pay cheap, you get cheap! and cheap doesn't last 5 mins lol. if your paying big bucks for your tiles you need to pay your tiler bigger bucks! a lot of people think it is not a trade but believe me.... builders are not tillers, tillers are tilers!
Mr Tiler, out of curiosity would the insulation boards be something like Masterboard? I've used that vertically in a marine environment as a heat resistant surround on stoves (porcelain tiles and used heat proof silicone as adhesive and grout - perfect combination for resisting the vibration and hull movement on a boat), but didn't consider it as a flooring substrate as I wouldn't have thought it would be practical. If I'm on completely the wrong path, what insulation boards would apply? Cheers
I have zero experience in tiling boats mate so I couldn't say haha!... but very interesting to here what you have done... how long have those tiles been up and are they all still going strong?.... I have never used ''masterboard'' ive only used the ones supplied by my local tile suppliers they are basically tough insulation boards with a cement board attatched to either side.. fixed down with a solid bed of tile adhesive weather it be wall or floor.... i am pretty sure masterboard is a fire resistant board is it not? i wouldn't consider tiling onto it unless stated suitable by the manufacturer. i would never advise using a silicone as an adhesive or grout but in your situation i suppose anything is possible lol.
better using recommended kit mate especially on floors as they take the most battering lol
The tiles have been up for probably six years through hot summers, cold winters, and of course the odd impact with a river bank or lock gate no problems whatsoever. Yes it is fire resistant to a point, though you do really need to have an air gap and/or secondary insulation behind dependent on distance between tiles and stove, and the rating of the stove. Many people have used a range of commercial adhesives and grouts instead with varying success, and it was me winging it rather than by recomendation that I chose to use it. Stinks the place out, and it's a nightmare to grout with as it sticks like the proverbial to a blanket, so cleaning of the tile fronts is a real pain. Assuming you have the patience though, I can think of no finer medium for the job for shock absorption and adhesion. No prepping of the masterboard BTW - just bead and twist the tile into place to ensure good contact. Probably not something for a professional though due to being so time consuming.
I'm not one for following convention though. My solution for bathroom tiling was tile effect cushion flooring (again with silicone adhesive). Warmer to the touch, and softer to bang your elbow on or stumble against if another boat goes past too fast when you're in the shower and sets you rocking.
you have a very unique way of thinking mate, but i could never give a 4 year minimum guarantee on that bathroom floor haha! i have seen this method being shown in videos on youtube which is reidiculous because if everybody started to do it i can guarantee the majority of tiles would fail and there would be a lot of injuries due to it being done lol.
just remember if you pay cheap, you get cheap! and cheap doesn't last 5 mins lol. if your paying big bucks for your tiles you need to pay your tiler bigger bucks! a lot of people think it is not a trade but believe me.... builders are not tillers, tillers are tilers!
I feel you may think I was belittling your trade,I truly was not,it is a contextural thing + my lateral sense of humour ....
No that was the bathroom WALLS that had cushion flooring Floor was commercial grade flooring tiles onto 3/4" ply, well ventilated through the bilge.
Although I did also once help a mate with some wonderful porthole surrounds to the bow of a barge (compound curvature). He'd made the portholes from washing machine doors facing inwards, and supplied me with a pile of salvaged timber. My tools consisted of adhesive, a few screws, a cordless jigsaw, a cordless drill, and an 8" bowie knife for detailing, rebating and finishing. That was about 12 years ago, and they're still in place today
mr tiler...do you know anything about thermal self levelling screed?
I know a thin layer of bitumen would work from experience...but what would you suggest in it's place on top of old tiles ..which tile adhesive would adhere to for the top layer of tiles/???
"Nicos, Queen of Gooooogle" and... GYO's own Miss Marple
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