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Raised beds.
Raised or narrow beds are beds which are narow enough for you to reach to the middle easily from the side - generally between 4' and 5'. On a traditional 5 or 10 rod plot which is approx twice as long as it is wide the layout is normally on a cruciform patten with two principle paths crossing at right angles and bisecting the plot. Each resulting quarter being split onto narrow beds separated with even more narrow (18") paths. Crops are planted in blocks within each bed and because there is no need to walk on the beds, planting distances are much reduced. For example in a traditional layout lettuce are planted 12" apart with 18" or even 2' between rows - in raised beds they might be planted 8" apart each way.
The preparation of raised or narrow beds is fairly simple. Mark out the bed with a line and string, dig the bed area well - to two spade depths (two spits) if you are feeling up to it. You can raise the bed more by digging the first 6" of topsoil from the semi-permanent pathways and pileing it on top if you want, then top the construct with a generous helping of manure or compost. If you are edging the beds then get the edging in place and level the bed, if not then get the central 3' level and slope the final 6" on either side (called a batter). Having gone through all this preparation you will not need to dig the beds over again for several years - I'm digging my beds for the first time in four years this year.
Each bed is given a number in the rotation system and you may have several beds in each group. Raised beds are an intensive way of growing, and despite what one might think they are also a very old (Medieval) method of growing ones veg! Because they are intensive, raised beds need compost or manure every year - with the exception of the bed you want to grow carrots and parsnips in! And the quality and quantity of stuff you put on will determine how much you get out.
The short rows inherent in the design make succession sowing much easier, watering, while just as hard and long winded tends to be neater with less wasteage and weeding is easier as the soil is not compacted and without the wide spacings there is less light on the soil so less weed growth. Another side benefit is the tight spacing and therefore shading of the ground reduced water evapouration.
On the down side this system is less useful for growing spuds as there is no way to dig them up without walking on the bed - so the spud bed is always dug over in the winter.
Raised or narrow beds are beds which are narow enough for you to reach to the middle easily from the side - generally between 4' and 5'. On a traditional 5 or 10 rod plot which is approx twice as long as it is wide the layout is normally on a cruciform patten with two principle paths crossing at right angles and bisecting the plot. Each resulting quarter being split onto narrow beds separated with even more narrow (18") paths. Crops are planted in blocks within each bed and because there is no need to walk on the beds, planting distances are much reduced. For example in a traditional layout lettuce are planted 12" apart with 18" or even 2' between rows - in raised beds they might be planted 8" apart each way.
The preparation of raised or narrow beds is fairly simple. Mark out the bed with a line and string, dig the bed area well - to two spade depths (two spits) if you are feeling up to it. You can raise the bed more by digging the first 6" of topsoil from the semi-permanent pathways and pileing it on top if you want, then top the construct with a generous helping of manure or compost. If you are edging the beds then get the edging in place and level the bed, if not then get the central 3' level and slope the final 6" on either side (called a batter). Having gone through all this preparation you will not need to dig the beds over again for several years - I'm digging my beds for the first time in four years this year.
Each bed is given a number in the rotation system and you may have several beds in each group. Raised beds are an intensive way of growing, and despite what one might think they are also a very old (Medieval) method of growing ones veg! Because they are intensive, raised beds need compost or manure every year - with the exception of the bed you want to grow carrots and parsnips in! And the quality and quantity of stuff you put on will determine how much you get out.
The short rows inherent in the design make succession sowing much easier, watering, while just as hard and long winded tends to be neater with less wasteage and weeding is easier as the soil is not compacted and without the wide spacings there is less light on the soil so less weed growth. Another side benefit is the tight spacing and therefore shading of the ground reduced water evapouration.
On the down side this system is less useful for growing spuds as there is no way to dig them up without walking on the bed - so the spud bed is always dug over in the winter.
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