Using chemicals to clear a plot.

[kentish girl]

When I took over my plot last year the council used weed killer & then rotovated it but the weeds came back with a vengance & we are gradually digging them out, maretail, bind weed etc so Idon't think that it is always the best way to go.

[pigletwillie]

I totally agree, I only use glysophate occasionally on bindweed and marestail as I just dont have the time to keep on top of it always. Once its in amongst fruit for example there is no easy way to get it out. For 98% of the time we hand weed by hoeing off annuals or by using a trowel for dandelions and docks. I fear however due to the depth of the mares tail root you will only eradicate it by using a weedkiller.

[obo]

My plot seems to have a couple of bands of infestation; Bindweed down the bottom end, and Horsetail (Equisetum telmateia - not to be confused with Mare's tail (Hippuris vulgaris) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horsetail ) just north of middle.

I intend on Round-up-ing the Bindweed, and will try to take the approach regarding Horsetail where you keep cutting it down an inch below ground level until you use up all its reserves of energy. I do only have a small amount to contend with thankfully - unlike some of my neighbours with forests of the stuff peeking out between the spuds, cabbages etc - who seem to swear by the rotovator and does do more harm than good it seems with regard to Horsetail.

Failing that, maybe a small thermo-nuclear device will get rid of it? Would that fall in the category of "organic", I wonder

[stevenaylor]

I'm struggling to follow the links (new to the site today!) and have a similar problem. I have recently used pathclear (a six month weed control product) to clear an area which I have now decided I want to use for vegetables. Are there any dangers? I want to my veg to be as organic as possible.

[snuffer]

Glyphosate is definately the way to go. When I first took on my lottie I knew there would be no way of clearing it without having to resort to chemicals. Before choosing which product to use I did some research and what I found out was quite interesting.

Glyphosate is 'relatively' safe as it breaks down in the environment. However this does not happen immediaetly on contact with soil as some packaging may lead you to believe. The mechanism isn't fully understood but the chemical binds with soil particles making it inert and breaks down over a period of time.

From what I have read it would appear that a greater risk to the environment is posed by the surfactants that are added to the chemical in order to make it adhere to the leaves. The big brands seem to use more of these surfactants and so I choose from the lesser known brands which retail as concentrated glyphosate not (BRAND NAME) containing glyphosate.

Path clear type weedkillers can stay active for longer as some contain chemicals to suppress regrowth and inhibit seed germination. As a result planting in ground on which this type of weedkiller has been used should be delayed for at least six months and perhaps longer.

Hope this makes sense. I haven't mentioned particular brands because I cannot reliably state where I have read the information relating to them. If you feel inclined I'm sure a 'Google' will bring up the relevant information.

[Kayt]

My plot is very overgrown having been empty for about 6 years. As well as all the usual weeds it is also full of brambles, about 8ft high in places! After a lot of badgering the council say they are going to cut it all down but I shall still be left with the roots which I realise will take a while to get rid off - if ever! Would Glyphosate work on those or is there something better available? Also, and I apologise now if this is a really stupid question but this is all new to me, is it best to burn the dead stuff left from spraying? I assume it isn't suitable for the compost bin.

[Norm]

Glyphosate will struggle with brambles, you need a "Tough Weed Killer" or a "Stump Killer". It will take a bit longer, but does work. I took over a plot years ago with 2 Elder bushed growing in the middle. They took about 4 months to snuff it. As for the dead weeds, I always dig them in as green compost.

[Lavenderblue]

oh thanks for posting this as our new (nightmare) plot has the same problem - except we have nettles, bindweed, couch grass and brambles. We went away for 10 days after clearing it and well, the plot was full of bindweed - the stuff was everywhere. We put down weed surpressing fabric but the "£$%*^&$ bindweed grew so strongly that it pushed the fabric up, giving themselves more light to grow even more strongly. We worked so hard in clearing the ground, making beds and wanted so much to be organic but we couldn't keep on top of the bindweed in particular. Storm sprayed the lot with glyphostate and we are going to cover the rest of the plot in weed surpressing fabric and keep spraying until the bindweed is under control (about 1000 years we reckon!) We still have lots of bindweed in the fruit beds but someone gave us a top tip on dealing with it. Give the bindweed a lovely stake of its own to climb up, let it get really big then dob on some spot on weedkiller and laugh as it withers and dies.

[geoff]

weedkiller on serious weeds

There is no shame in using weedkiller on a serously overgrown and neglected plot; that is what the 'wise old men' on my plot suggested when I was in a similar position After all this thing is supposed to be a pleasure, not forced labour It would be OK as a 'once only' technique
Glyphosphate is good but expensive.
Sodium chlorate is cheaper but leaves most of the roots, and you can't grow any crops for 6 months. But it would do for paths or an area for next season

Don't expect to get the whole plot into a decent state for about three years, I'm afraid. Try doing a good job on part of the plot, and just treat the rest with chlorate, dig it over roughly, and tackle it next year. Then the sorted area should only need routine work, and you clear a bit more of the rough area as well, till eventually you've done the whole plot That's the theory anyway
Mulch any cleared areas with manure; this will improve the soil, which is probably in poor condition, and help to stop weeds recurring

Best of luck!

[vegnut]

mbj what type of tarp are you using, any of these green or blue types don't exclude light well enough. It has to be a proper weed supressing membrane (black). If not, do what i did. Use Glyphosate and leave for 3 weeks (should be fairly brown by then) then cover with compost and thick layers of cardboard (any plastic tape removed) boxes you get from large stores. Then cover it with your tarp, making sure its well weighted down. Walk away and forget it for a year. Don't forget to keep a bit open for you to play with now, it keeps the interest going and gives you something to look forward to. Good luck.

[Matt.]

Well I've just discovered I have horsetail not marestail infesting my plot so thanks for the link! If you have this I'd question the use of glyphoste. This is the ONLY weed on my plot I can't kill with the chemical and the only sucess is digging out. You never get every last bit either but one good dig will remove the most of it. Good luck!

[geoff]

using chemicals to clear a plot

If you have just moved onto a very neglected and overgrown plot the council usually lets you off the first years rent

[Kayt]

The council aren't that nice in my area

[middlefield]

Weedkillers are good in a controlled manner.

A couple of weeks ago my father in law announced he still had some glysophate left in his sprayer and that he wanted to spray our boundary and use the liquid for safety reasons (not to have it lying around). As the plot is full I was reluctant but said he could if he was careful and only to do the perimiter and not to go near the plot itself.

When I went to the plot yesterday I noticed the odd weed (there aren't many left) on the lot starting to die off, and thought 'hmmm, he couldn't resist' (I know him too well).

Last night I had to remove 5 potato plants, about a quarter of the broad beans and a raspberry bush that he had clearly contaminated. Now I've got to go tonight and check again what he has inadvertantly sprayed.

My fault, I should have stayed and supervised - it goes to show for all the slug, caterpillar and blackfly problems, they can all be beaten hands-down by the two legged pest!

Even on the stillest day weedkiller spreads!

[Trotter75]

cooch grass

Somebody has suggested Glyphosphate as a cure to my first overgrown allotment for cooch grass, i have hired a rotovator tomorrow, is this a good idea to combine the 2.