clay soil

[pumpkin grower]

i am just starting my second year on the plot and i am really stuggling with thick clay soil i was just wondering if anyone can give me any advice on how to combat this problem with out the use of chemicals

[piskieinboots]

Hi pumpkin grower - I am doing a study in Hort and my last assigment was on soil of which mine is clay ....I would be very happy to send you my course notes of which (she proudly says) I got good marks....

PM me your email

[Alice]

Hello Pumpkin Grower, I'm sure Piskie has things to tell you but the usual remedy is dig in all the organic material you can lay hands to. It does break down into good, fertile stuff in the end.

[Snadger]

Gypsum and lots of well rotted organic matter are usually recommended!Digging the soil in autumn and leaving it lumpy to allow the frost to break it down to a workable tilth in spring is supposed to work. There are quite a few good points to gardening on clay, not least being water retention in summer and it is also less prone to leaching of nutrients.
Or why not apply a heavy mulch of FYM/ straw/compost and let the worms do the digging for you!

[Sue]

Hi Pumpkin grower
I've been struggling with heavy clay soil that had not been cultivated for a few years. I' m also at the low end of the allotments so excess water drains down my end....
Snadger's suggestion of mulching seems to work best for me although I've been adding cardboard to the mix. Putting cardboard down then the heavy mulch. Do this a few times and some handforking to get out any weeds that still persist (bindweed!) and you do get good soil. Takes a year at least, but after having struggled to dig and deal with the mud, the heavy soil and the weeds this does seem the best method.

I'm still growing potatoes in compost bags which means after I've dug up the potatoes and then used the compost to grow carrots, I've had loads of compost to add to the soil.

It's getting there, still have waterlogging problems in one corner but it's loads better than when I started.
And worth thinking about raised beds too if its really bad
best wishes
Sue

[roitelet]

You could add some sharp sand as well as the organic matter. Did it last year for the carrots and it has made quite a difference to the soil in that area.

[crichmond]

I have the same problem and have been adding manure sand and also horticultural grit which seems to be working, but mine is also one of the lowest plots so water gathers.
Lukily we have a road right down the allotments so I am getting a few tons of top soil sometime this week to raise the level by about a foot across the whole allotment.

Cheers Chris

[The Doctor]

Whilst really annoying in lots of ways, in addition to the benefits Snadger mentioned, I understand clay soil is really rich in nutrients too.

My beds are primarily clay, and I have been digging in loads of compost, even to the extent of buying up cheap stuff when I haven't got enough just to add to the beds.

At first it just seemed a waste of time and like it made no difference. I had faith with the advice here though and when I compare those I have 'treated' more than others now, they are like chalk and cheese, and I've only been doing it for a couple of years.

[Madasafish]

NO NO NO.
We have clay soil. Dig nothing. Mulch. You are pissing in the wind (pardon the phrase) by digging. You will need tonnes and tonnes of sand and compost if you dig. Far easier to create a small layer on top which is cultivable.

If you dig you will see what teh results are if you try sieving teh resulting mix. Balls and lumps of clay.

I dig as little as possible. Just pile on the compost and chipped bark and sand and compost etc. We have a 30cm depth of soil fromed from that, then 50cm of heavy soil then metres of clay.

Digging is a waste of time imo.

[Mikey]

I was given a tip last night from an experienced gardener which was potatoes help break up the soil that is heavy. Can anyone else vouch for this, like madasafish, i am looking to mulch over the top of our heavy clay soil, having double dug, turning grass and compost into the base first, then braking up the top layer before adding the mulch.
Clay does keep nutrients better than any other soil group, so I am sure as long as you can get a good tilth in the top 12 inches if its clay below you should benefit from the clay.

[Derek]

I agree with Snadger....Gypsum or Clay-Break to give it a brand name is obtainable from local garden centres.

When I took my second half plot on five years ago I was recommended to use Clay-Break and it worked...I have subsequently added manure and leaf mould so much so I now have good workable soil...I couldn't have done it without the initial application of Clay-Break

[Matt.]

[QUOTE=Mikeywills;206753]I was given a tip last night from an experienced gardener which was potatoes help break up the soil that is heavy. Can anyone else vouch for thisQUOTE]

I read this many times on here. I'm quite sceptical myself and think its probably the act of digging up the spuds that results in a nicely dug patch for the next crop

Agree with the above comments that mulching and adding other organic matter is the right course however how much would you need for a whole plot and where does it come from?! I'm just starting my second year and have two huge pallet compost bins but their contents won't come close to the desired amount. Plus it took me all of last year to get it. Over several years it will work but if you want instant results you'll have to dig for now. Unless of course you want to pay for it?

I've got clay soil and the best result for me has been to create defined beds. These aren't raised as such but I won't walk on them. It keeps the soil full of air which makes it easier to dig later and I notice loads more worms.

[Mikey]

how much would you need for a whole plot and where does it come from?! I'm just starting my second year and have two huge pallet compost bins but their contents won't come close to the desired amount. Plus it took me all of last year to get it. Over several years it will work but if you want instant results you'll have to dig for now. Unless of course you want to pay for it?

I've got clay soil and the best result for me has been to create defined beds. These aren't raised as such but I won't walk on them. It keeps the soil full of air which makes it easier to dig later and I notice loads more worms.

Hi Matt, I am lucky we have a neighbouring farmer which will drop as much cow manure as you want for £15, and I mean tonnes of!!, or I can hand barrow from a horse stable 1/4 of a mile away for free. I guess even I am not that mean, and I do have cardi tendancies.