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  • New Allotment, even newer Gardener

    Hello to everyone on this forum,

    Let me start by explaining I am a total novice to allotments, growing vegetables (or just about anything else!) so forgive any of the absolute howlers that will surely follow.

    I have recently acquired a patch of land (approx 0.14 Hectare) which I would like to use as an allotment.
    My aim is to grow vegetables. Initially Potato, Carrot, Swede, Turnip, Onion Etc. Maybe a few flowers too if I'm any good.
    I am looking for general advice to prepare the land, plan sensible, achievable growing areas and figure out a time/season plan.

    A brief description of the land:
    Area is approx square bordered by a road and garden(mine) to the N and W.and a row of Hawthorn trees on the E boundary. Its generally flat. The area is quite open and often very breezy (Being 600ft ASL,.My location is near M62 in North West UK.)
    The soil seems quite well drained, and a quick test gives a neutral PH. approx 4-5 ft topsoil before clay.
    Former uses have included cattle pens, goats chickens etc. Also some kind of building yard, (I keep finding large lumps of hardcore, etc just below surface).
    Currently it is heavily overgrown with thistle, nettle and grass. There is a water supply within 40 Metres.

    Thankyou in advance for any advice you may have offer

    Tim

  • #2
    As one of the non-organic gardeners in here, my advive would be to buy enough glyphosate to kill everything off (3-4 weeks) rotavate the lot and start from there.
    http://norm-foodforthought.blogspot.com/

    If it ain't broke, don't fix it and if you ain't going to eat it, don't kill it

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    • #3
      Welcome to the vine Tim. Great, Sounds good land and should be rich if it was animal pens. Nettles only grow well on fertile soil. I am hoping there isn't too much rubble. I think many might suggest glyphosate to start but you are going to have apply a few times to dig out some roots. I'd suggest investing in a roll of mypex to cover the land after that. you can use it to plant (particularly spuds) through later on.

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      • #4
        Glyphosate is a good option, but it does NOT work in one hit. You have to apply it at the right time, and repeatedly for good results. Then you still have to dig out the knotted tangled bits of nettle root.
        All gardeners know better than other gardeners." -- Chinese Proverb.

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        • #5
          Thanks for those replies,apologies for my late response, back from holiday now, and looking at a healthy growth of nettles.
          So Glyphosate, sounds like step one, is that branded as RoundUp?
          So if a few applications of that (by spray?) do the job, should I rotovate straightaway and then cover the ground with the mypex sheeting.

          Thanks

          Timh

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          • #6
            Roundup is expensive because you're paying for a trade name. Big DIY stores (eg Focus)sell boxes of glyphosate for £4.99 and you'll get more bang for your buck with a sprayer. Put a bit of red food dye in the mixture so you can see where you've been.
            In 3 to 4 weeks it will all be dead and you can rotavate. Nettle and couch grass roots will still be there, but like wet string and very dead. Doc roots become an orange pulp. The bummer is pulling the roots out of the tines on the machine (remember to switch it off first!) After that, any new weed growth can be cleared with a hoe.
            http://norm-foodforthought.blogspot.com/

            If it ain't broke, don't fix it and if you ain't going to eat it, don't kill it

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            • #7
              Cross fingers, I'll be getting a new allotment soon. It's overgrown as well but it's right on a river so I am weary about using glyphosate. Last night I ordered Bio Organic Range Weed Control. I hope it works. They said it even works on plants that are resistant to glyphosate! Anybody here ever tried it? I cannot find anything on searching the forum archives.

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              • #8
                You have years of fun to go, so, Clear and cover with tarpolin or green manure area's not in use.
                Although time consuming, this method will not run the risk of chemicals leaching into the river.
                The covered ground will be " clean ish " when you are ready to work it.
                All the best to all
                Fred P

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                • #9
                  I was just told that I can start working the land on my new plot. I read somewhere that French beans are a good green manure. Surely, people eat these when they start producing and then dig the plant under in the Winter?

                  Comment

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