calcified seaweed

[growbag]

Hello, this is my first question as I am new on the vine . Can anyone tell me if it is o.k to use calcified seaweed & manure say a week apart as I have read that the seaweed can improve the soil similar to lime( by sweetening the soil & reducing acidity) but lime & manure shouldnt be used within a month or so of each other because of chemical reactions between the two. I had my plot in September which was overgrown with brambles & the last time it was cultivated was about 20 years ago!
Hope some of you wise people out there can help.

[PAULW]

GROWBAG
Why dont you check the PH of your ground first then work out the best solution for the crops you want to grow.

[nick the grief]

Hi Growbag,

I'm willing to bet that if you plant pioneer crops ( spuds, cabbage, courgette, suash etc) they will grow away no problem as they will have had 20 years of natural composting from all the weeds that die down in winter. Calcified seaweed isn't seaweed really but it's a sort of coral like beastie and its the "outer shell" that you use.

I would go with Paul's advice and test the soil before you go throwing loads of lime on it. And I certainly wouldn't bother mucking it this year, if you got some muck cover it over and let it rot down for next year. or apply it as a bit of a mulch later on.

PS, welcome to the Vine .... I forgot that bit

[growbag]

Thanks for your prompt replies. I tested the soil & it showed up neutral in the particular area I had in mind to grow brassicas on but that patch is very wet & mossy. The rest of the plot is not too bad drainage wise. The other gardeners told me they add lime to their cabbage patches as there is club root on the site. (though I shouldnt have it on my bit after 20 years of non cultivation) I was just looking to sweeten up this part of the soil.I am a bit new to veg growing so any advice is very welcome.

[shirlthegirl43]

Sorry I can't help with your query Growbag - just wanted to say hi and welcome to the Vine.

[nick the grief]

Thanks for your prompt replies. I tested the soil & it showed up neutral in the particular area I had in mind to grow brassicas on but that patch is very wet & mossy. The rest of the plot is not too bad drainage wise.

It will free up drainage wise as you cultivate it and add muck to the soil. Plant yer beans here if it's moist save on watering

The other gardeners told me they add lime to their cabbage patches as there is club root on the site. (though I shouldnt have it on my bit after 20 years of non cultivation) I was just looking to sweeten up this part of the soil.I am a bit new to veg growing so any advice is very welcome.

Ahh, it doesn't work like that I;m afraid GB. Club root can stay dormant for years. You can do several things to help.

Heavy lime as you say - it helps suppress it but if it's dry/hot summer they will still suffer

Plant varieties with some resistance - there are one or two being sold now that are reputed to have clubroot resistance

Grow them on on pots and plant them out of a 5" or 6" pt using soiless compost - it won't cure the problem but ther will have a good enough root system to cope hopefully

or use something like my dad used to ( see the armillartox thread in top tips )

[growbag]

Thanks for the welcome. Hope to have a long & knowledgeable stay.

[growbag]

Hi Nick, I have armillatox which I forgot about! Will read up on it. Thanks

[Snadger]

Thanks for your prompt replies. I tested the soil & it showed up neutral in the particular area I had in mind to grow brassicas on but that patch is very wet & mossy. The rest of the plot is not too bad drainage wise. The other gardeners told me they add lime to their cabbage patches as there is club root on the site. (though I shouldnt have it on my bit after 20 years of non cultivation) I was just looking to sweeten up this part of the soil.I am a bit new to veg growing so any advice is very welcome.

I don't think you need add lime to neutral soil for brassica's to thrive!
The area may be wet now but that water retention may be an asset when we are in the height of a summer drought.
Brassicas like firm soil so I would just hoe off the moss when you're ready to plant, rake soil to give a bit of a tilth and plant into that! Moss can be indicative of shade, i.e overhanging trees or buildings, if so, you may have to live with it!!
Whatever you do, don't accept any transplants from your fellow allotmenteers (even walking on infected soil can spread the fungus!) and try and keep your plot as it should be now, clubroot free!