i believe there is only one way to get rid of couch grass (or what I have on my patch - nettles and brambles) and that is to dig it out ....if you dont think you can garden it this year you could put in a green manure rather than leave it fallow.
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My first plot. Pics, plans and feedback please.
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Originally posted by Two_Sheds View PostNo, don't try and plant anything with active couch grass. It does NOT work. Cover it until the grass is severely weakened, then dig out each and every scrap of root
It's stony soil that's bad for carrots, not clay per se
... And, what do you mean by leaving a quarter "fallow"? Do you mean that's the couchy bit which will be covered up?
You're not intending just to leave it as bare soil for a year?
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Martin
Thanks for the advice. i wont be planting onions and carrots together, one idea i had was to introduce a raised bed for just carrots and use loose lighter soil. i have had some success previously using raised beds with carrots so i want to see if this will work again.
Not a big rhubarb fan either but hey - its kinda like an adopted child now. i want to raise it as my own!
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Originally posted by Jackbb View Postcouch grass thought i would pull as much up as i could and leave until next year
Do it the easy way: cover it, THEN dig it after at least 6 months
Your layout looks fine, so long as you can reach all parts of all beds without stepping on the soil in the beds, ie have enough pathsLast edited by Two_Sheds; 16-03-2013, 08:23 AM.All gardeners know better than other gardeners." -- Chinese Proverb.
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Like you I have just got my first plot. I'm trying to be much more detailed in my plan - rather than just define beds I'm trying to work out what area of plants I need etc. Been playing with growveg.com's garden planning software. My thinking is it lets me virtually do what people on here seem to advise which is start sticking stuff in and see what works.
Couple of things jump out as 'missing' on your plan:
- Compost area?
- Water source?
- Shed / Tool storage? My house is 100ft from my plot and I'm still thinking I'd like a little place to leave the spade and wheel barrow, watering can etc.
- "green house" - i.e. coldframe, poly tunnell etc that you can use for hardening off seedlings?
- Compass direction - where till the sun come from etc? Totties gow to about 2ft, depending on the width of the path and the direction of sun you may shade the edge of the beds. Same with a rasied bed.
- Path widths?
You've marked a hedge again will it cause shade? Totties wont mind I don't think
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Originally posted by polc1410 View PostLike you I have just got my first plot. I'm trying to be much more detailed in my plan - rather than just define beds I'm trying to work out what area of plants I need etc. Been playing with growveg.com's garden planning software. My thinking is it lets me virtually do what people on here seem to advise which is start sticking stuff in and see what works.
Couple of things jump out as 'missing' on your plan:
- Compost area?
- Water source?
- Shed / Tool storage? My house is 100ft from my plot and I'm still thinking I'd like a little place to leave the spade and wheel barrow, watering can etc.
- "green house" - i.e. coldframe, poly tunnell etc that you can use for hardening off seedlings?
- Compass direction - where till the sun come from etc? Totties gow to about 2ft, depending on the width of the path and the direction of sun you may shade the edge of the beds. Same with a rasied bed.
- Path widths?
You've marked a hedge again will it cause shade? Totties wont mind I don't think
Compost area will be at the very top of the plot by a fence (i am the top plot) not quite sure whether to put it in the top corner in part shade near the tree line or not although sure i've read somewhere that its best left in full sun?
Water source - there are a couple of free standing taps to the side of the plot - its a fair distance and not sure a standard hose would reach so will have to fetch and carry the water.
Shed/Tool storage - heres the rub. I've yet to receive any official paperwork yet but my understanding is that no sheds or greenhouses are allowed! Also, large polytunnels are also prohibited. Luckily im very near to the plot so i can haul my tools to the plot each time, not ideal but happy to do it. A coldframe will be ok and i will consider this.
Compass Direction - the plot is as south-facing as you could wish for 190 degree south - so ideal for all my crops! Part of the proposed potato bed will in partial shade at the start of the day due to some medium sized trees at the side of my plot.
Path widths -marked initially as 2 foot but i doubt they will be that big - as long as its good enough for access of my size 10's and a wheelbarrow then that will do.
Hedge/Trees - yes marked but that will initially cause shade at the very start of the day - the majority of the day the plot will be in full sun (if the sun ever decides to show its face again)!Last edited by Jackbb; 16-03-2013, 02:40 PM.
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I think my paths ended up too wide on my first plot, which I designed from scratch, so I'm gradually widening the beds. On my other plot that was already set out with brick paths when I got it is the other way round with massive beds and very narrow paths. You're right to leave it flexible for the first season to see how it all works out
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Originally posted by SarzWix View PostIf you fancy a nosey at mine, I have pics of both in the albums on my profile; click my name, select View Profile, then scroll down to Albums on the left and View All
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We put the beds in like that because the soil wasn't brilliant and it would be more effective to improve the bits that things were growing in rather than bits we wanted to walk on The straw mulch is part of that; it suppresses weeds and also rots down and adds to the soil. It's pretty cheap too. After 5 years the soil is getting better, but I still have patches that are like subsoil with an inch or so of good stuff on the top
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