New Allotment

[crucy86]

Hi All,

New to the forums so first off, Hello!

I’m based in Milton Keynes and have just taken over plot 47 at my local Allotment. Its 5 poles and comes with well.. not much, it looks like a very unused plot!

The allotment itself is fairly new, about a year old.

I have inherited a small shed, which unfortunately has seen better days, the structure is fine although the felt is hanging off and it has a broken window. So my first job is to fix the felt, get a lock on the shed and replace the window!

Then its over to the plot itself, its not been divided up and it looks as if the council has mowed the plot over. Unfortunately they didn’t leave the cuttings on top and so it’s pretty bare.

so the question is, what should I do next and how should I prepare it for the winter? I’m presuming there is not much I can do now its pretty much September so I’m planning to trying to get a head start for next year. Should I rent a rotavator and turn over the whole plot?

I only have one pic and so I’ve attached that. The plot is pretty long and thin, I’m trying to design a layout and come up with the idea of having 4x rotational beds, 1x static bed for my asparagus and fruit etc., then maybe 1 or 2 smaller beds in which I’m probably going to grow flowers, to attract wildlife, look nice and also then be able to use for cut flowers at home.

I’ve done quite a bit of reading and just want a heads up on any allotment etiquette that I may be missing - obviously aware I shouldn’t plant anything / erect anything that shades a neighbour plot etc. I’m also planning to introduce a hedgehog house and I thought about a bumble bee house, although I’m not sure on the do's and don’ts of that in an allotment, although the council have said there isn’t a problem, is it a no no In the allotment world? I’m very keen to promote good wildlife into my plot and would welcome more slug/snail eaters along with pollinators!

I presume the main thing I shouldn’t do in terms of wildlife is encourage birds?

Anyway, thank you for reading my post - Look forward to becoming part of the community.

Craig

[rustylady]

Hello Craig and Welcome. First of all, could you add your location to your profile please, then it will show up on your posts.

Your plot looks pretty good. You could rotavate if you wish, but if you have any perennial weeds in there like couch grass and bindweed rotavating will just chop up the roots and increase them.

I would cover as much as you can (thick cardboard from bicycle shops like Halfords or electrical retailers. This will starve the grass and weeds of light and the worms will get to work. It will be so much easier to dig after a few months under cardboard.

I would get one bed cleared and dug now - it will soon be time to plant overwintering onions and garlic.

As to wildlife, why not encourage birds? Obviously you don't want pigeons eating your brassicas but the small birds do a good job of eating aphids.

[Two_Sheds]

the main thing I shouldn’t do in terms of wildlife is encourage birds?

The only bird who'll give you a problem is the woodpigeon: it's a great big greedy bistard and will strip every brassica and pea plant it can get at.


Blackbirds & sparrows may take a few strawbs/peas/beet leaves respectively, but they make up for it by eating a lot of insect pests for you

[Two_Sheds]

the council has mowed the plot over

I would turn over a small section of that grass, to find out if it's couch grass or just normal annual meadow grass

If it's couch, DO NOT rotavate it, you'll just spread it.

Cover it with wet newspapers or cardboard as a mulch, which will kill off the grass until you get round to digging it over.

If you have the time & strength, turn it all over and get green manures sown asap. You can soon plant onion sets, then broad beans in November

[crucy86]

Many thanks for your replies, its very much appreciated.

I will most definitely hold off on the rotavating and try to identify what type of grass / weed is growing. In the T&C's of my tenancy it states I shouldnt cover more than 20% of my allotment in weed suppressant materiel (thats not green manure). But not sure if they will mind if its just cardboard? I maybe will drop them an email as they are quite prompt at replying.

If I were to cover it with cardboard, how long before I should see any improvement? or is this a overwinter scenario?

I was looking at green manures today, is there anything in particular that anyone recommends? If I were to turn sections over and green manure, would that also be sufficient enough to kill the grass / weeds?

with regards to the birds, I always assumed that many people would consider them pests! I am quite fond of encouraging birds such as tits, sparrows and swifts etc into our gardens and didn't think about that they would actually benefit us by getting rid of pests! I wont be putting down bread for the pigeons! - Ideally I would like to encourage sufficient wildlife that I dont need to use chemicals to control pests (I know easier said that done.. but something that I strive towards nevertheless!)

With regards to the beds themselves, as I said I am aiming for a 4x Veg Bed so Pots can have their own each year. What is a "good size" bed that's manageable. My plot is approx 20 feet wide and thought about structuring them as 2 in each row going down the plot - with a central path, this would put them at approx 8 - 9 feet wide? not sure how deep yet as I would quite like a bed for static fruit, asparagus etc and also maybe a few beds for me to play with, flowers etc for bees and pollinators.

Thanks again in advance,

Craig

PS - Will update my location as well, thank you.

[veggiechicken]

Hello Craig and welcome!!
If it were my plot I'd make the beds run across the plot, so that you use the existing paths at the sides as access to each bed. If you have a central path you lose a lot of growing space.
Then make the beds 4'-5' wide so that you can reach into the centre of each bed without stepping on the soil.
Does that give you enough beds for your rotation plan?

[crucy86]

Hi Vegguecicken,

Thank you or the welcome.. that's a good idea! not sure why I didn't consider it.. so make them run the full width - would I then just have a small path in between each one?

The plot is approx 70 feet long so I think that would work really well. One of the crops I am fond of is sweetcorn, would a 5 foot wide bed be sufficient for the block? it would be more rectangle rather than a solid square block?


with experience, how big do you find the space between beds should be in order to walk down, get a wheelbarrow etc? would prefer to use others experiences rather than have a guess and change it later.

Thanks again.

Craig

[Martin H]

Welcome!

I'm in my first year of a new allotment. I had one many years ago and made one big bed out of it, but this time around I've split it into beds 4 feet 6 inches wide and the paths between are 15 inches wide.

I have long arms, some people find 4 feet is better, but this size is working well for me.

Anything over 12 inches wide and you can get a wheelbarrow down it no problem.

One advantage of small beds is you can dig one over in a day and feel you've made real progress. It makes the whole process somehow less daunting.

My plot was more cluttered than yours and I still haven't got it all clear yet, but I'm pleased with how much stuff I've managed to grow so far. I only started at end of March so I expect you'll do much better

Good luck, hope you enjoy the experience whatever approach you take.

[crucy86]

Thanks for your reply, those measurements help for wheelbarrow access etc, thank you.

with turning over the beds, i have access to some horse manure (some well rotted, some not). I have read up on digging and double digging but to be honest, I'm not sure if I will get the time to double dig before the end of the year, I'm no going to be able to start until Mid October unfortunately.

If I were to turn over some beds, would it still be OK to plant green manure in October? Am I best to not try and plant any crops this year and concentrate on next season?

Thanks,

Craig

[rustylady]

Don't try to double dig - you wanna kill yourself?

Just concentrate on getting the grass and roots out. I find a fork easier to use than a spade.

I think October is too late to plant green manures, but you will be able to plant garlic and overwintering onion sets.

[crucy86]

Thanks Rusty, I'll do that..

Is it a good time to also mix in some manure in the beds I won't be growing on this winter? Didn't know if I should do it whilst there are a lot of potential weeds etc still there. Will get as many as I can out!

Thanks,

Craig


Sent from my iPad using Grow Your Own Forum

[rustylady]

I wouldn't mix your manure in. Clear the beds as best you can and then place a thick layer of manure on top. The worms and the weather will mix it in for you and then in spring you can just give a light forking over and away you go.

Don't add manure where you are going to grow carrots or parsnips though.

[crannman]

6mnth into mine take your time dont rush it can be hard work first off but you will get there

[Two_Sheds]

... the birds, I always assumed that many people would consider them pests!

Those who don't know what birds eat, do think of them ALL as pests, but actually very few wild birds eat vegetables: most are insectivores.

how big do you find the space between beds should be in order to walk down

Wider than you think, because plants will flop over the edges. My main path is 30" wide, which is narrowed to 15" in places because of overhang

would it still be OK to plant green manure in October?

ime, they need to be sown while there's still warmth in the days, so they get some ground cover going on before all growth stops in a few weeks time

When I've planted in October, nothing happens until late March

[mrgrower]

Hi and welcome to the Vine and also congratulations.