**mod note….these are three very useful posts which have been moved from a now deleted thread.**
There is a growing consensus that excessive tilling is bad for soil, disturbing soil life and fungal networks and causing it to dry out and erode more easily. Sometimes it is necessary to dig, for example if you have persistent perennial weeds that need clearing (horsetail, couch grass, bindweed, brambles etc), so what you do next will depend on what is actually there. You might like to look at Charles Dowding's Youtube channel for details about no dig and direct comparisons between dug beds and no dig ones. The no dig always perform better. However, other people in different parts of the country have had slightly different results, so it is always a good idea to experiment. I find in my garden, which has heavy clay soil that has been improved over the years with compost, that no dig works for a few years and then the soil (which floods sometimes) needs loosening with a fork. You may enjoy digging, which is good exercise, so you might like to factor that into your plans.
What I would do in your situation is divide the plot into convenient sized beds with paths in between, so that you can reach all parts of each bed without leaving the path. A standard sized bed is often 4ft by 8 or 10ft, mine are smaller as I find reaching the middle of a 4ft bed difficult, so I have 3ft by 6ft. Whether you create raised beds or just areas of untrodden soil is up to you and may depend on what you can afford. I would then rake the soil so that there are no large lumps and add a layer of compost to each bed. You are then good to go with planting, or you could sow a green manure or cover the beds with cardboard to protect them from the worst of the weather and leave them over winter if you have too much space available now.
As for the future, you could try digging half of the beds every year and using the no dig method on the other half, and see which suits you and your crops better.
There is a growing consensus that excessive tilling is bad for soil, disturbing soil life and fungal networks and causing it to dry out and erode more easily. Sometimes it is necessary to dig, for example if you have persistent perennial weeds that need clearing (horsetail, couch grass, bindweed, brambles etc), so what you do next will depend on what is actually there. You might like to look at Charles Dowding's Youtube channel for details about no dig and direct comparisons between dug beds and no dig ones. The no dig always perform better. However, other people in different parts of the country have had slightly different results, so it is always a good idea to experiment. I find in my garden, which has heavy clay soil that has been improved over the years with compost, that no dig works for a few years and then the soil (which floods sometimes) needs loosening with a fork. You may enjoy digging, which is good exercise, so you might like to factor that into your plans.
What I would do in your situation is divide the plot into convenient sized beds with paths in between, so that you can reach all parts of each bed without leaving the path. A standard sized bed is often 4ft by 8 or 10ft, mine are smaller as I find reaching the middle of a 4ft bed difficult, so I have 3ft by 6ft. Whether you create raised beds or just areas of untrodden soil is up to you and may depend on what you can afford. I would then rake the soil so that there are no large lumps and add a layer of compost to each bed. You are then good to go with planting, or you could sow a green manure or cover the beds with cardboard to protect them from the worst of the weather and leave them over winter if you have too much space available now.
As for the future, you could try digging half of the beds every year and using the no dig method on the other half, and see which suits you and your crops better.
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