Woolly aphid apple tree misery

[seneca196]

Hello,
I have a 6 year old apple tree (Sunset on M106) trained as a fan against a wall and over the last 3 years it's had an infestation of woolly aphid. I thought I had managed to control it for the first year (brushing and spraying with everything going), but each season it has returned even worse and done more damage. I've even cut out the worst affected branches and have reduced the tree to a third of it's size. It's returned again this year, so I am going to remove the tree entirely and replace it. I would like to plant another apple and train that similarly. I do hope it doesn't suffer the same fate, but not sure whether woolly aphid lives in the soil and can affect other plants. I have seen signs of it in a few other places around the garden, but it seems to dwell on this one tree in particular.

If I were to replace 1m x 0.5m deep area with different soil, would I avoid replant disease? Anything else I could do to minimise the replant disease problem?

Any recommendations for the new apple. I'm thinking of going for something vigorous that will quickly fill the space. My soil isn't very nutrient rich and is quite a heavy clay type once below the first 10-20 cm. I'm currently looking at Jupiter, as I like cox type varieties. Any thoughts? One of my favourite cox type apples is called Suntan, but it seems quite rare and doesn't get many mentions, let alone recommendations anywhere. It must be one of those problem trees that grows gave up on. Any advice is welcome. Thanks

[nickdub]

Sounds to me as though the problems you are having relate more to your soil and the situation, than the tree or the variety.

I'd say you are on the right lines with removing some subsoil and breaking up the latter more below with a fork down to say 2' would also be good. Then I'd advise building up the soil with a mixture of humus rich material and something to introduce nitrogen eg a sort of horizontal compost heap - you could grow some courgettes or whatever on it over the Summer.

As for varieties, the world is your lobster really if you order bare root for the Autumn, If you decide on another apple, then I might suggest M9 as a better choice for limiting the size of the tree. Personally with that situation and plan I might opt for a plum or a peach though, wall space being a valuable commodity in the fruit garden.

[Jungle Jane]

You could have the tree in a container this year while you work on the soil. Don’t aphids overwinter in the bark or other host shrubs? I think if you’ve got them,they’ll always be about but just deal with them when you see them,if you avoid pesticides you’ll eventually build up a good supply of beneficial insects.

[DannyK]

I wonder if it is varietal as only my egremont russet has it out of 10 cordons. It's the same every year.

Per RHS ( https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?pid=724 )it overwinters on the bark.

I just hose mine off.

Earwigs eat them.

Suntan is available from Keepers and others. Had AGM 1993.

[FB.]

Woolly aphids may be coming from someone else's old tree(s) nearby so your next tree may suffer the same fate.

If you destroy woolly aphids as soon as seen and keep at them every few weeks then you will be able to get rid of them (an old brush and old toothbrush is all you need - no chemicals required).

Woolly aphid is a serious problem for me so some of my trees were chosen for their resistance or lesser susceptibility to woolly aphid (some I am aware of from historical records and some from my own observations).

[FB.]

As for varieties, I have Jupiter which is a descendant of Cox which I would nominate as the most suitable variety that I know for your situation.

Above average growth rate but not monstrous like Bramley/Blenheim etc.
Growth habit is spreading/drooping, quite well-branched and well-spurred for a triploid.
Spur-bearer, alternates between light crops and excessive crops which will be 'kids lunchbox' size fruit unless thinned.
Triploid but pollination never seems to be a problem (parthenocarpic/part-self-fertile?).
Fruit keeps for a few months after picking.
In my shallow, dry sandy-chalky soil, unfed/unwatered, minimal pruning, grown with grass up to the trunk, on M25 rootstock, bitter pit does not occur, contrary to what 'the books' say.
Good tolerance of aforementioned low-fertility soil, grass/weed competition, neglect, drought etc.
Probably some resistance to woolly aphid (I've never seen a single woolly aphid on it despite nearby trees being infested).
Probably some resistance to codling moth maggots (negligible damage to fruit despite nearby trees suffering heavy fruit damage).
Average susceptibility to canker.
Some resistance to scab.
Good resistance to mildew.

[seneca196]

I was leaning towards Jupiter, so nice to get a confirmatory view.

The tree has soft, lumpy swelling on many of the remaining branches and having already removed so many over the previous years the "fan" is looking decidedly lopsided. Having tried most things on the RHS link already, I feel it would be a waste to spend more time and growing seasons trying to fix it, so a replacement is my favoured choice. I already have an Opal fan tried on the wall next to it, so don't want another plum. The fence does get a fair amount of sun, but the area rarely is warm. Also, the garden does get strong winds passing in and around it, as it's in an exposed area. I think a peach may not be worth planting, as well as not being overly fond of them. For me it's always been apples above all else, so I'd prefer yet another.

[nickdub]

Nothing at all wrong with planting an apple in the situation you describe - I think if I was training one on a wall, I'd go for an espalier rather than a fan though.

[Lardman]

Theres an interesting article here https://www.goodfruit.com/solving-th...y-apple-aphid/ about companion planting to attract hover flies. Worth a try whilst you wait for the next planting season.

[seneca196]

I have a few espaliers already and they have been only partially successful. For some reason the side branches on a few tiers never seem to grow evenly, so I get a short branch on the one side and a longer one on the other. This only becomes apparent at the end of the season, when I have a new tier to grow on for the next season. I'm always in two minds as whether to forgo growing the new tier the following year, or focus on improving the seasons growth again the following year, thus taking twice as long to complete a tier. If that makes sense!

Fans are more forgiving in how they grow and develop. If they go astray here or there, or the growth is uneven, you can always move and tie branches to make it look balanced. The form of an espalier shows up any inconsistencies in growth and never look right. Just my view.

[Martin H]

Monty Don recently gave a good tip for getting branches to grow horizontally. He said to never tie in the last 6 inches of the branch. The branch keeps on growing, with an upward bend. At the end of the season, or when it's long enough, bend it back horizontally and tie it in 6 inches from the end.

I'm thinking of digging up my Bramley because it's mostly tip bearing and doesn't work very well as an espalier. Live and learn. I'll replace it with an early dessert apple, this will give me a chance to test Monty's theory.

[Lardman]

I'm thinking of digging up my Bramley because it's mostly tip bearing and doesn't work very well as an espalier. Live and learn. I'll replace it with an early dessert apple, this will give me a chance to test Monty's theory.

Careful with the early deserts - most are tip or partial tip bearing.