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  • Not too early to start thinning tree fruit.

    As usual, first a caveat - not all fruit trees bloom and fruit at the same time and so when you can/should start thinning varies, for example my Court Pendu Plat tree is in full flower at the moment. A rough guide is that the earlier the fruit ripens, the earlier you can start thinning it. So my George Cave apple is ready to eat in early August and certainly needs thinning now.

    Apples go through a period when the unpollinated fruits fall off naturally, often called the "June Drop", this also applies to a most top fruit and its usually obvious before the fruitlets actually fall off which will not develop, but if you are unsure :- JUST LEAVE IT A BIT LONGER :-)

    There are various good reasons for thinning, even though it is a tedious and repetitive task including :-

    a) discouraging biennial bearing - if a tree bares a breakdown crop one year, it will often decide to have a rest the next
    b) preventing damage through breaking branches - this applies particularly to plums which have brittle wood - of course supporting a heavy branch is an alternative
    c) getting larger individual fruit - so in the case of cooking apples large fruit is easier and quicker to peel and thinning therefor of immature fruit is the best option.

    Because I don't enjoy thinning I try to do a bit every time I walk by a tree when I have the time.

    BTW My 5 large cox trees have about 1 apple each on them - usually I'd expect about 30lbs per tree - no idea why as next door trees of different sorts are fruiting normally - I'm going to look more closely at them and maybe water in some artificial fertiliser - another good reason why I should spend a bit more time grafting and budding different varieties to give more diversity.

    Happy gardening :-)

  • #2
    I've started on mine this week.
    Flicking off the unpollinated flowers that stick between the fertilised fruit.
    Picking off any blemished fruitlets and any runts.

    Like you, Nick, I do it as I walk past, but I'm easily sidetracked by ladybirds , fledglings and lichen and sometimes stay put.

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    • #3
      Its in the nature of chickens to be easily distracted VC - you can't change what you are :-)

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      • #4
        Oddly the 3 variety apple tree here only had about half the blooms this year so half the clusters and last year was the first time we had thinned it. Guess I can leave 2 or 3 (if they don't drop) per cluster to get a normal apple yield ?. Fertilized similar to previous years
        Last edited by It never rains..it pours; 27-05-2019, 07:41 PM. Reason: Typo

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        • #5
          3 fruit per spur is no problem (except for apples like Bramley which due to its very short stalks you can only fit 2) - really its the over all number of fruit on the tree which is critical.

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          • #6
            The "June drop" hasn't arrived yet, I always wait for the tree to start the thinning process, otherwise there's a chance you could remove the stronger fruits and keep the weak ones, I guess I'm 3 or 4 weeks away from touching my trees yet up here.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by burnie View Post
              The "June drop" hasn't arrived yet, I always wait for the tree to start the thinning process, otherwise there's a chance you could remove the stronger fruits and keep the weak ones, I guess I'm 3 or 4 weeks away from touching my trees yet up here.
              yep - everyone who does this needs to be in touch with the stage their trees are at - its not a precise calendar thing, because as you say the weather and the place where you live are such big factors.

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              • #8
                I've started thinning mine. I've done two apples and one plum. The plum I thinned was one whose blossoms got badly frosted back in April, and it still set far too many fruit (removed about half).
                The other two plum trees are completely covered in fruitlets. Very heavy thinning will be in order (2/3 to 3/4, I think).

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