Raspberry pruning?

[Snadger]

Raspberries are my favourite soft fruit but I've always struggled to grow decent ones.
Last autumn I was given some long canes and hurriedly prpared a bed to grow them in.
They are about 6 foot high and I've had a few really large rasps off them. The new canes are now forming new canes for next years crop.

I wondered if they were pruned to say 3 foot whist in full growth (now) would this make them form lateral shoots, keep them smaller so less prone to wind damage and increase productivity?
Hopefully by keeping them this height I wouldn't need to stake them either.

Is this feasible do you think?

[rustylady]

No Snadger, leave the new canes to grow to full height. Cut the ones that have carried fruit this year down to ground level as soon as you've picked all the raspberries. The new canes will probably need tying in to some sort of support as they get quite tall, but come next year they will produce lateral shoots, flowers, and lots of raspberries. Don't forget raspberries are semi-woodland plants, so appreciate moisture retaining soil and a bit of shade.

[Kristen]

I reckon you need to tie them to some training wires, rather than stake them.

Ideally tie them to some out-bound wires, so that next years suckers (which will make a crop in 2010) have free space to grow up in the middle, and the 2008 suckers, making a crop in 2009, are trained outwards and their fruit hangs free for picking next summer

[Snadger]

No Snadger, leave the new canes to grow to full height. Cut the ones that have carried fruit this year down to ground level as soon as you've picked all the raspberries. The new canes will probably need tying in to some sort of support as they get quite tall, but come next year they will produce lateral shoots, flowers, and lots of raspberries. Don't forget raspberries are semi-woodland plants, so appreciate moisture retaining soil and a bit of shade.

I know yours is the generally accepted way of doing things but wondered whether cutting would force the plant to create sub laterals this year instead of a single cane?
btw, the reason why I've planted them where they are is that my allotment neighbour has just built a whopping great shed and they are planted on the lee side. Damp silty soil is the norm on my plot also!

[Snadger]

I reckon you need to tie them to some training wires, rather than stake them.

Ideally tie them to some out-bound wires, so that next years suckers (which will make a crop in 2010) have free space to grow up in the middle, and the 2008 suckers, making a crop in 2009, are trained outwards and their fruit hangs free for picking next summer

Yep, I did that on my last plot but moved plots before I reaped the rewards for my effort!

[Alexx]

Snadger,

I did top my raspberries to about 5ft last summer. They were on their second year at the time. I'm no expert but they did produce a lot of side shoots and we had a glut of rasps this summer. The whole raspberry patch looks a bit like a hedge which suits me just fine.

Is 3 foot not a tad too short?

[Snadger]

Snadger,

I did top my raspberries to about 5ft last summer. They were on their second year at the time. I'm no expert but they did produce a lot of side shoots and we had a glut of rasps this summer. The whole raspberry patch looks a bit like a hedge which suits me just fine.

Is 3 foot not a tad too short?

To be honest I don't know! All I will say is that even though I've pinched out the tops at 3 foot the side shoots are now 4 foot and still growing!

Just playing about and experimenting so PLEASE no-one take my lead until I can assess results next year!