Advice on removing part of this apple tree

[GF3]

Hello.
I planted a Baya Marisa (Tickled Pink) apple tree in spring 2021. It is on a P22 rootstock ( a polish rootstock similar to m27 for growth). When I bought it in December 2019 it was just a twigg in a very small pot. It had been grafted, such as the trunk, was growing at a sharp angle (I have added a photo) from the top this "trunk" two branches sprouted. Now these branches are growing out and it is difficult to stake the tree properly (it will need permanent staking). I was thinking of removing branch "A" and try to straighten Branch "B" to make that the main trunk. I have added photos. Any advice would be welcome.

[ameno]

Staking in fruit trees is needed to secure the roots from wind rock, not to stop the top of the tree moving. Even in a very dwarfing tree, the top of the tree should need no support; only the trunk needs support.
As such, they way you have it staked at the moment is absolutely fine. No need to remove any branches or make too much effort to try and tie in the top bits.

[Nicos]

I really don’t know much about pruning…but have to say that it’s produced loads of lovely looking apples!…you are clearly doing something right!

[GF3]

Thanks for your replies.

The trunk does tend to move quite a bit. If it is blustery the two branches of the tree catch the wind and the trunk has a tendency to twist backwards and forwards around the post. It has been difficult to try keep it secure.

I really don’t know much about pruning…but have to say that it’s produced loads of lovely looking apples!…you are clearly doing something right!

The tree is growing well. Last year it had twice as many apples on it - I have read that the variety may have a biennial tendancy.

[Jungle Jane]

Would it help if the stake was shorter so it wouldn’t be in the way of the tree canopy?

[It never rains..it pours]

I have a lot older tree with three main branches like your two splitting from 2ft odd from ground . Come about as each branch is a different grafted variety. Personally find it works well. With an open form and easier to prune than one central branch. Perhaps graft on some other varieties, half the fun in my book, and does wonders for pollination & harvest spread.

[GF3]

Thanks for your replies

Would it help if the stake was shorter so it wouldn’t be in the way of the tree canopy?

The stake size isn't much of a problem, the problem is that when the tree catches the wind as the tree moves the trunk rubs against the stake.

Perhaps graft on some other varieties, half the fun in my book, and does wonders for pollination & harvest spread.

I grafted two scions of Winter Gem onto branch "B" last year - they are growing well. I was thinking of "Air-layering" branch "A" off the tree and straightening branch "B" to grow as a single trunk.

[ameno]

Thanks for your replies

The stake size isn't much of a problem, the problem is that when the tree catches the wind as the tree moves the trunk rubs against the stake.

See if you can wedge a bit of rubber, like a piece of old bicycle inner tube or similar, between the trunk and stake.

[Jungle Jane]

Try putting the tie round the tree in a figure 8 so there’s material between tree & stake like this photo -


https://www.finegardening.com/articl...r-not-to-stake

[GF3]

I am using rubber coated garden wire but it dosen't take long for the rubber coating to wear away to the wire. I shall have to look out for some old inner tube.