Apples without sprays; additions and revisions

**FB.** · 03-05-2009, 11:16 AM

So, what does it all mean? In simple terms?

In the drier South-East and Eastern side of the UK, mildew can be a problem.
I would recommend a variety with at least:

Canker: 3
Scab: 3
Mildew: 4

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In the wetter South-West and Western side of the UK, canker and scab can be a problem.
I would recommend a variety with at least:

Canker: 4
Scab: 4
Mildew: 3

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Note that "resistance" does not mean that the disease will never be seen; it basically means that the disease is unlikely to be a major problem, but you must expect small amounts of disease from time to time. The natural resistance should mean that you will not need to intervene to protect the tree; it should be able to defend itself.

In and around Cambridgeshire, mildew is a very serious problem and even "resistant" varieties are affected; the climate in Cambs is the most mildew-favourable in the whole UK.
Notice the high proportion of my varieties that have mildew resistance of 5. I can leave them unattended. Those with mildew resistance of 4 sometimes need me to prune off numerous mildewed shoots in bad years, to reduce the spread of the disease.
For an easy-growing experience in Cambs, I would recommend a variety with at least:

Canker: 3
Scab: 3
Mildew: 5

The rootstock MM111 excels in Cambs - especially on light, sandy soil. MM106 is also quite good. The Woolly aphid resistance of MM111 and MM106 rootstocks is also very useful.

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Careful choice of rootstock can improve the ability of a variety to thrive in certain areas where it might usually be difficult to grow.
For example, a variety with no special resistance to mildew (resistance level 3 or less) might tolerate a dry, light soil of a mildew-prone area, if grown on MM111 rootstock, due to the positive effect of the rootstock that would raise resistance by one level.
Likewise, a variety with no special resistance to canker (resistance level 3 or less) might tolerate a canker-prone area, if grown on one of the MM rootstocks, which boosts the canker resistance by one level.

Additionally, careful choice of rootstock could shift the flowering time of a variety, to cause it to flower at the same time as a specific other variety.
For example, if I only had room for two trees and I really wanted Edward VII (flowering = 4) and also wanted Winter Gem (flowering = 3).
If I grew the Edward VII on MM106 and the Winter Gem on M9, I could use the MM106 to bring forward the flowering of the Edward VII by one periods; to flowering period 3, so that both would flower at about the same time.
An additional bonus of the rootstock choices in the above example would be that the Edward/MM106 would have an "averaged" vigour of 2.5, whereas the Winter Gem/M9 would have a vigour "average" of 2.75. Both varieties would, therefore, grow at about the same rate.

**FB.** · 14-05-2009, 11:29 PM

Corrected, adjusted and simplified.

This was the kind of information that could have saved me a lot of trouble in my early apple-growing years - and I'd like to make it available to anyone with an interest.

**FB.** · 06-06-2009, 02:53 PM

A few more refinements.

**FB.** · 08-07-2009, 02:00 PM

A few small changes.....

**FB.** · 14-08-2009, 03:19 PM

Slight adjustments made recently.

My studies seem to show that many apple varieties have some resistance to disease, but that - over many years - the diseases mutate and some of those mutations break through the disease resistance of specific varieties.
But it also seems as if certain strains of disease specialise in attacking just one variety of apple and that a nasty strain of scab from a Cox's is not very damaging to a Worcester Pearmain, for example.

It would seem that planting only one of each type of apple tree would reduce the damage caused by scab, since each variety of apple will have it's own unique ways to fight the scab, making it difficult for the scab to become perfectly adapted to one specific variety.
It would also seem worthwhile looking at which varieties may be grown near to you.
If there's an old Cox's orchard, it is likely that it will contain Cox's-specific strains of scab. Planting your own Cox's will mean that there's a perfectly-adapted strain in your area that's just waiting to attack your new tree. But plant a different variety and the local diseases will have a much harder time attacking it.

My advice, to try to minimise disease damage would be:

Don't grow more than one tree of the same apple variety (e.g. a pair of Bramleys is a bad idea, but a Bramley and a Worcester won't share their diseases).

Growing different varieties on different rootstocks might also help (bear in mind suitability for your soil, rootstock vigour and possible rootstock effect on flowering time).

Don't grow varieties that are being grown in nearby gardens or orchards or yours will catch their diseases that get blown in the wind.

Don't grow comon shop-bought UK-grown varieties (there will be lots of their diseases blowing around in the wind all across the UK).

Consider including one or two russet apples. These apples appear to have skins which partially absorb raindrops that land on them, meaning that the fruits dry out faster after rainfall and therefore less risk of scab spores germinating in the wet. However, their leaves don't have any special scab resistance.

**bharper1** · 14-08-2009, 06:58 PM

You grow all these applies in your garden? you must have a massive garden or a large field

Would be very interested to see some pictures of your trees and how they look?

**FB.** · 14-08-2009, 07:22 PM

Most of them are bushes or cordons around the edges of a large garden.
They are under-planted with an assortment of plants.

Most of my bushes are on rootstock MM106 (a few on M26 or MM111) and my cordons are mostly on M26 (a few M27 or M9).
I have a few young standards or half standards (MM106, MM111 or M25 rootstock) that will eventually form a canopy above the bushes around the edge of the garden. I am also working on an "own-rooted" (ungrafted) Blenheim Orange as well as growing a number of seedlings from crosses of Discovery, D'Arcy Spice and Tydeman's Late Orange (all three perform exceptionally well in my area). I hope to breed at least one very disease resistant and good-cropping tree to plant as my own.
By the time the standard trees are fully grown (about 15 years time), some of the bushes could be past their best (or died from various causes), so the standards will be their replacement and the edge of the garden will be planted with something else - the soil will probably be depleted by that time.

Although MM106 rootstock sounds quite strong, my soil is poor and the rainfall is low and irregular. The trees also have to fend for themselves against pests and diseases, which slows them down even more.
MM106 only reaches about 6-7ft if properly pruned and cared-for, so I can fit-in quite a lot around the whole edge of the garden. MM106 can reach about 8-9ft in this area if not pruned. Growth is very slow because of the poor conditions.

Even my M25-rootstocked "standards" are only expected to reach about 9-10ft if properly pruned (10-12ft if not pruned).
My own-root Blenheim is expected to grow much, much larger, but the tree is not yet ready for planting, since it hasn't got much of it's own root system developed - it's still on a "nurse root" (M9) as well as having some of it's own roots.
Blenheim Orange is a monstrously strong growing tree. It is my hope that with it growing on it's own roots, it will overcome the poor soil conditions and grow to a full size apple tree, so that I can hang a hammock (20ft). It's mildew resistance will help it to tolerate the dry conditions prevalent here.

**FB.** · 14-08-2009, 07:38 PM

Here are some recently-picked apples.
The top picture are "Discovery".
The bottom picture are "Grenadier" - lined up for the Mrs to bake an apple pudding of some sort tomorrow.

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**FB.** · 14-08-2009, 07:45 PM

Here are some ripening apples:

Top picture:
Tydeman's Late Orange apples growing as an unsupported "fan". The branch has been pulled down by it's own weight.

Middle picture:
Crawley Beauty apples ripening on a bush. Note the plum-like powdery coating on the fruits. I believe that it might protect against disease.

Bottom picture:
D'Arcy Spice apples ripening on a bush. Not very attractive, but very disease resistant, very tasty and very long keeping in a frost-free garage. Fruits don't drop easily and are picked quite late. Once picked, they will usually keep in cool storage until next spring, although a bit shrivelled.
D'Arcy Spice seems to perform very well in East Anglia, but does not perform well elsewhere. It is claimed to actually like poor, sandy soil.
A painfully slow growing tree, with the annoyance of tip-bearing.

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**FB.** · 14-08-2009, 07:51 PM

First picture: Laxton Superb fruit destroyed by scab due to the very wet summer. Notice the scab particularly on the less coloured side (shady - dries out slower after rain).

Second picture: Spartan apples. Note again (as per the Crawley Beauty) the whitish coating similar to that found on plums. As mentioned above; I believe that it could be partially protecting the fruit from disease.

Third Picture: Ashmead's Kernel. The brown is russeting (not scab!). Russeting is completely normal for certain varieties. Russets are ugly but often very disease resistant, very tasty and store in excellent condition for many months in a frost-free garage and are regularly edible the following spring - although a bit shrivelled.

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**FB.** · 14-08-2009, 07:56 PM

First picture: Bountiful - very large cookers, almost ready to pick.

Second picture: Fiesta (Red Pippin)

Third picture: Pinova being grown as an upright cordon (minarette). Notice the "Dalek" composters in the background.

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**FB.** · 14-08-2009, 08:05 PM

A ten-year-old Egremont Russet on M26, planted against a wall. Most of my "bushes" are similar.
Cropping well but has only managed about 7ft height and 5ft spread due to the very poor soil (shallow, sandy, hot, low-rainfall).
In my area, MM106 is equal to the growth of M9 in other areas and M26 is equal to M27 in other areas.

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Apples without sprays; additions and revisions

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