Apple Disease Pictures (Canker/Mildew/Scab/WAA)

[BUFFS]

I did not know there was different types of scab when i threw them out,the braeburn next to it was really bad,leaf and apple scab and i thought the russet was going the same way ,so i threw out(burnt) all the fruit to try to stop it spreading further(total lack of knowledge) and now find that they would have been fine and i wont have any of my favourite apples this year.wont do that again and now with all your help, next year should be better..thanks to all you kind people....ps..it has rained here every day for over a month,some days it was torrential all day,so i suppose that hasnt helped much,but i am lucky with topsoil over 3 ft deep,old cottage that was self sufficient,i am told

[FB.]

If your trees are persistently damaged by scab, you could consider re-grafting the established roots with more resistant varieties.

edit:
3ft topsoil and plenty of rain?!
Sounds like paradise, to me!

I have 1ft of average-quality sandy topsoil (gravel subsoil) and live in the lowest-rainfall part of the UK!

[paicar1]

disease apples

Good morning I am Portuguese and appeared some pest or disease that nobody else knows me explain how I was researching I came to this forum, I knew if I identify it by the images that I have
would appreciate answers

[FB.]

It's a bit difficult to tell from pictures because the blemishes are quite small.

It might be bitter pit, scab, codling moth/maggot or where the fruits rubbed against the branches.
Judging by the clustering of the lesions, I think that scab is the most likely cause.

If the holes go to the core and it has been eaten, it's probably codling maggots. There will usually be hundreds of tiny brown excrements, each about as large as a grain of sand.

If it is brown necrotic patches throughout the fruit, it is probably bitter pit.

.

[paicar1]

disease apples

Thanks for the reply
but the picture by then I'll never see any club so for symptoms biter pit and already now how to cure the apple scab, these spots appear only in the upper crown of the apple.
respects

[FB.]

It looks as if the blemishes are where water droplets remained on the fruit after rainfall.
Scab infection is quite common on the base of fruits on the shady side of the tree, since the water hangs on the underside of the fruit and the water takes longer to dry in the shade.

Some varieties are more resistant than others. In some seasons, even the resistant varieties can get rained upon for a long time at just the wrong moment (when the fruit is very small), causing, occasionally, perhaps half of the fruit to get scab despite the normally good resistance.

There are fungicide sprays available for scab, but I don't use them, so I can't make a recommendation.
My defence against scab is to grow several varieties with some resistance. Regarding scab; I am fortunate that we don't get much rain here. However, mildew and drought are serious problems for my apples (I also choose varieties with good resistance to mildew).


Once the fruit is damaged, it can't be reversed. The best method for scab control is early-season sprays to prevent the young fruits being damaged. The fruits require rainfall, or water droplets on the surface, for several hours before the scab spores can infect the apple. The longer the period of rain, and the closer the temperature to the 16-23'c range, the greater the amount of scab infection.
The scab lesions will usually appear one to two weeks after infection.

.