Summer Pruning of Fruit Trees

[FB.]

Lots of people are unsure of when and how to prune fruit trees, so I'm giving this "heads up" that a pruning window is about to arrive.

I'm just about to start "summer pruning" my fruit and nut bushes (apples, pears and hazels). The time to do it is mid July in the Southern parts of the UK and as late as early August in Northern areas.

The summer pruning is intended to dwarf the trees and to increase fruit production. It is comonly used for cordons, fans and espaliers. By pruning in the middle of the growing season, a significant portion of the trees leaves are removed, reducing it's energy production capability, which then makes the tree think:

"Life's tough here; I'd better start reproducing myself before these tough conditions kill me".

So the tree prepares to flower and fruit like crazy in future years - to make sure that it manages to produce offspring before it dies.
Of course, the the tree is never actually killed by the pruning or we wouldn't do it every year - it's just fooled by the clever method and immaculate timing that hits it right where it hurts just at the right time.

Summer pruning consists of finding the point where new this season's growth has grown out from last years growth. Usually the new wood is slightly greener and there's a knobbly bit where the new shoot joins the old branch.
Once you've found the base of the new shoot, there will often be a cluster of leaves that look like a rosette, immediately at the join of last year and this year wood. Count between 1-4 leaves (2-3 is best) along the new shoot from that cluster of leaves and snip. Only cut into the new shoot, do not cut into older wood. The exact number of leaves up to count is your chioce - depending on how you want to shape the tree.

Hope that helps.
FB

[smallblueplanet]

Hi FB, its no wonder folk think fruit trees are difficult - I'm confused now.

I've just been looking athe the 'plum tree' thread and it links to http://www.gardenaction.co.uk/fruit_veg_diary/fruit_veg_mini_project_march_2d_plum.asp

which says

In the fourth and later years, prune in June. Cut all leading shoots back by about a third and all other shoots to 15cm (6in) from their main stem. Cut out all diseased or dead wood (and burn) and trim up any shoots which cross others. The aim is to go for a wine goblet shape. The centre of the tree should be kept un-crowded to allow air to circulate freely and let in light.

and

Established plum trees should be pruned in June and the pruning is restricted to new growth not bearing fruit this year. The aim is to keep the tree size within the available space. Pinch out strong-growing side shoots (grown this year) to 6 leaves from their parent branch - this will encourage fruit next year. When the central stem gets to about 2.5 m (8ft) high, prune it back into old wood, 1m (3ft) above the highest branch.

Whilst pruning this new growth, look for any dead wood, prune this out and burn it.

Baring in mind what you've just posted what would be best to do? As I'm not sure what to do with our 'dual fruiting' plum tree (its got a cambridge gage greengage on one side and a more strongly growing marjories seedling on the other).

Its been planted since 01/04/06 (April Fool!) ago and has only just this year got about four or five plums on it - almost no blossom. Its about 7ft high and sort of shaped into a goblet shape.

What to do with it please cos I'm for digging it up if we get nothing next year!

[FB.]

As I mentioned in brackets, my main emphasis was on apples, pears and hazels. Apples are probably the most common home-grown fruits. Plums are much less common.
June is the preferred month for pruning plums or cherries, but July is OK too.

As it happens, I also tidy up my blueberry bushes at this time of year - cutting back long growing shoots that are badly placed.

[smallblueplanet]

As I mentioned in brackets, my main emphasis was on apples, pears and hazels...June is the preferred month for pruning plums or cherries, but July is OK too...

Thanks. So if you weren't really referring to plums, which of the above 'regimes' should I be thinking of doing now?

[FB.]

The likely reason for the delayed fruiting is probably because you have Marjorie's Seedling grafted onto the tree; it's a giant of a plum tree that doesn't want to fruit until it has grown to a huge size. Then it will fruit so much that you won't know what to do with them all - if you can reach to pick them!

I would only recommend Marjorie's Seedling for large trees or where the extra vigour will balance a poor soil.

If it was mine, I'd cut back all new shoots to just one leaf any time now.
I would also measure a circle around the tree that reaches about halfway to the reaches of the branches and drive a spade into the ground to a full spade depth all around the root spread. I would also not feed the tree for a season or two. Only water in dry weather or if it looks like it needs it. Grow some other plants (grass, alpine strawberries - anything you like) close to the trunk of the tree, to compete for water and nutrients (but leave about six inches clear around the trunk).

The tree will be so badly shocked by the treatment that I'd be very surprised if it doesn't calm it down and start fruiting prolifically.

[smallblueplanet]

Thanks again FB. That's very interesting about the MS, I hadn't realised it was such a 'big tree'. We're on a 'river plain' so fairly fertile soil, but we've never fed it, nor treated it particularly well. But we'll have to keep a close eye on it and will do as you suggest pruning/growing wise.

I read about the 'root pruning' on another thread and was keen to try it. When would you suggest doing it? Also would you prune the 'cambridge greenage' gage (I think that's its name) less harshly? Its trunk is about half the size of the MS.

Oh we have trouble with aphids/ants/leaf curl - should we put a 'sticky band' round the trunk and if so when.

I'm really keen on getting some plums, plum jam is my absolute favourite! Also I imagine some plums in cognac would make good xmas pressies! Thanks for your help.

[FB.]

Do the root pruning as soon as possible. Stress during the growing season (especially July) is the key to increasing fruit bud formation in following years. Fruit/flowers will draw energy from the tree and slow down the growth rate.

As you suggest; I would prune the Gage less harshly, to balance the tree. You might only need to prune the Marjorie's half. But you ought to root-prune all around.

Let the aphids have their feed; they'll suck some of the sap and slow down the growth.

[smallblueplanet]

...
Let the aphids have their feed; they'll suck some of the sap and slow down the growth.

What about next spring though?

[burnie]

Too late did it last weekend,oh well.

[FB.]

What about next spring though?

I only deal with aphids if the tree is in serious trouble - e.g. more than half of all leaves curled over.
Nearly always, I find that natural predators come along. My Bramley is covered in all kinds of aphids and they are well guarded by ants. But hoverfly larvae are now munching their way through the aphids, despite all the guards.

[smallblueplanet]

Cool. Thanks FB. I'm really looking forward to some good plums now.

[Snadger]

Too late did it last weekend,oh well.

Likewise!!!!!!