Recommended books for espalier training?

[salilah]

I hope to put in a few espalier apples (and maybe a pear!)
I've searched on "espalier" here and there have been a couple of recommendations of books
Which would you recommend for detailed instructions for pruning, varieties, rootstock etc?
thanks!
Salilah

[FB.]

My advice:

If they're bare-root "maidens", then just plant them and don't prune them this winter. Let them use those extra branches to power the growth of a good root system next year.
Once the trees are growing well, you can start pruning the following winter (Dec-March).
Determine the level at which you want the first pair of arms to grow and cut the tree to that level. But if you cut it back by less than half it's length, you won't get many side branches (cutting off a little more than half it's length is usually perfect for forming branches). Therefore, make sure that it is long enough or you will have wasted a whole year because it will just re-grown what you cut off!
In the spring, train the strongest shoot upwards, to prepare for the next set of arms in a year or two's time.
The remaining shoots should be trained (tied to a cane) at a 45-degree angle during the growing season. During the following winter, untie them from the canes and pull the branches horizontal and tie them in place.
If the top shoot has made good enough growth, you might be able to prune it and start the next pair of arms. But it's possible that it might need to be allowed to grow-on for a couple of seasons.

The lower branches can be pruned in July, to encourage fruit spurs. The upper branches can also be pruned in this way, once they are up to size.

Some varieties are not suitable for espailer or cordon. Avoid any that mention "tip bearing". You will also find that some varieties - such as Bramley and Blenheim are not only tip-bearing, but also vigorous, which is a really bad combination for espaliers and cordons. Vigorous growers often refuse to grow many branches, which is problematic for espaliers or cordons.

[salilah]

Thanks FB.!
As you are near us (Cambridge) - any recommendations as to good nurseries to buy the bare-root maidens?
thanks!
Salilah

[FB.]

For bare root maidens, you'll probably need to look at places such as Deacons (Isle of Wight), Blackmoor (Hampshire), Chris Bowers (Peterborough), RV Roger (Yorkshire). There are probably several others that I've forgotten.

I've seen Scotsdales at Shelford offer container-grown maidens of outstanding quality during the winter months, for about £10 each - but they are snapped up quite quickly when they arrive in stock.

If I wanted a fruit tree, I'd go to Simpson's nursery at Fordham (nr Newmarket). They offer 2-4yr container-grown bushes for only about £15 (as cheap as a mail-order maiden but much bigger and stronger) and ready-trained 3-4yr container-grown espaliers/fans with about three tiers of branches and about 5ft spread - for about £30.

I find that container-grown trees establish much better in this area (very low rainfall means that small weak trees struggle to establish).
Best planted in September through to February (September is best because Sept-Nov sees a big burst of root growth into warm, moist soil, for the following season; roots struggle to grow in cold or dry soil - hence why they send out lots of roots in autumn) - but untangle the matted roots and knock most of the dirt off, then spread all the roots around a large plating hole - as if they were bare root (don't worry about losing some of the roots; it's still less severe than the damage done to a bare-root tree).
If not untangled, the matted, circling roots will literally strangle it.

Why do container-grown establish better? Because they don't lose many roots when transplanted. Bare root maidens lose half or more of their roots when dug out of the ground, so they can take a year or two to re-grow roots before they start to grow any more branches - hence why I said not to prune a maiden until it actually starts growing because losing roots is bad enough, but losing branches in addition to roots is sometimes crippling.

[salilah]

Thanks again FB. - really useful input!!
cheers
Salilah

[Rhona]

Christopher Brickell's book on pruning for the RHS is very useful - just mentioned it on another thread. We're trying espaliers next year, and this book has much more detailed advice than any other book I've tried.

[salilah]

Thanks Rhona - its now on the Christmas list!
cheers
S