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  • Hardy apple trees?

    i live about 1000ft above sea level and im wanting to plant a few apple trees in the garden that are hardy. oh and its in central scotland lol so rain/wind/snow would like a cooking apple and probably another two for eating. Ive been told that the ones to go for are grafted to they self polinate

    thanks for your help,,

  • #2
    Hi Robert

    I am also in the Central Belt and recently took delivery of a couple of apple trees. Will plant them when the ground is fully thawed.

    I got a James Grieve and a Fiesta as they are both supposed to be suitable for frosty, northern Britain. They are from Keepers Nursery. Their website was very informative on which trees would be suitable.

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    • #3
      Hi Robert!

      We're in Aberdeen and my ex has a James Grieve, a Bramley and a something-else-that-I-can't-remember (but it's an eater).

      I know we're at sea-level, but we're a lot further north.

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      • #4
        Deacons nursery offer "hardy Scottish varieties" - give them a call.
        > Link here <

        Also Blackmoor offer some hardy apple varieties on the hardy MM111 rootstock.
        > Link here <

        I am also aware of Butterworths nursery who might have true experience of Scottish varieties:
        > Link here <
        .

        Perhaps also look into varieties that originate from your area.
        Apple varieties often grow best close to where the original tree grew (local varieties are often more productive, more reliable, tastier, more disease resistant).
        I have outstanding success with some old varieties that usually won't grow successfully outside East Anglia. My area is almost opposite to you; mine is warm, very dry, long summers, very mild winters.
        I have some varieties from elsewhere and they often don't grow well; I have to grow my James Grieve in the semi-shade of another tree because it doesn't like the hot/dry/sunny climate here.

        In addition to a hardy and disease-resistant tree, if I were you, I'd also consider varieties that are sweet enough, large enough and ripen early enough to allow for them to develop properly in cooler and shorter summers.

        I would also look for varieties that flower as late as possible (subject to the variety being tolerant of deep grozen ground. Not only does it help them avoid frost damage, but it also means the weather may be warmer when they flower, so that there are more bees to do the pollination.
        In my experience, MM106 rootstock is prone to early flowering and prone to hold it's leaves late in the season. A potential for problems if late frost are common in the spring or early deep freezes in the autumn before the plant is ready for hibernation.
        Very dwarf rootstocks (M27, M9) with their shallow root system may suffer badly from deep frozen ground.
        M25 (very vigorous) rootstock also seems quite late to drop it's leaves in my area, so it may be vulnerable to damage from early and harsh frosts.
        I'd be thinking more of M26 (semi-dwarf) or MM111 (vigorous) rootstock. I would also be wary of growing varieties that are known to be prone to "bitter pit", on the MM111 rootstock. M26 would be better if the variety is prone to b.p.
        But please bear in mind that I live in a very different climate. I'm just making some educated guesses from what I've seen.
        .

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