What kind of fruit trees for Fife?

[Scottishnewbie]

my mum and my sister both gave me money for my birthday this week and I'l like to buy some fruit trees. I see Suttons have 4 for £40 just now. The only problem is I have no idea what would be good for growing in Fife, (for those that don't know we are on the East coast just south of Dundee).

Does anyone have any ideas please?

We have a big garden so size isn't too much of a problem.

Thanks

[solway cropper]

I'd go for late flowering/fruiting varieties of apple and pear as you probably get some late frosts up there. Chris Bowers and Son produce a very useful catalogue with lots of helpful info which should help you choose, even if you don't buy from them. Don't be tempted to go for varieties you see in supermarkets as they are unlikely to be successful where you live.

[FB.]

There are several things that I'd consider......

1
The hardiness of the tree (both the variety and the rootstock) to deep winter cold.

2
The tolerance of the tree to cooler, duller and shorter growing seasons.

3
The ability of the tree to withstand pests and diseases.

4
The ability of the open blossoms to survive frost damage - either through being hardy, or through flowering very late, or by only having a few blossoms open at any one time, so that at least some of the flowers will not catch a cold night.

5
The ability of the tree to set heavy crops even when pollination is poor (due to bees being mostly grounded by cold weather).

6
The ability of the fruits to ripen adequately.

[Torreya]

Have you got a friendly local nursery (rather than d-i-y or gc) that you can talk to? They're usually the best people to ask as to what will grow in your area. Also, they're not likely to sell varieties that are going to be brought back dead regularly!

[FB.]

If space isn't a problem, I'd suggest MM111 rootstock.
I'd also consider M26 rootstock if size is a problem, or for cordons.
M26 rootstock is also a better choice for bitter-pit-prone varieties.

I would not recommend MM106 or M25 rootstock because they either leaf-out/flower early, or grow late into the autumn. Both of which can damage the tree or the blossom buds.
The extra-dwarf rootstocks M27 and M9 may suffer too much frost damage to their shallow and slow-growing root systems.

Some varieties that I'd shortlist:

Annie Elizabeth (prone to wind damage)
Court Pendu Plat (prone to small fruit, may need a pollinator, needs a strong rootstock)
Crawley Beauty (easily becomes "spur-bound")
Discovery (partial tip bearer, needs good pollination, prone to wasp damage)
Edward VII (needs good pollination)
Egremont Russet (prone to bitter pit, especially on MM111 rootstock)
Ellison's Orange (prone to canker, maggots and wasp damage)
Falstaff (slightly prone to bitter pit - MM111 might aggravate)
James Grieve (prone to capsid bug, slightly prone to bitter pit - MM111 might aggravate)
Spartan (prone to small fruit)
Suntan (triploid, so needs good pollination and unable to act as pollinator, prone to bitter pit - MM111 will aggravate)
Tydeman's Late Orange (prone to wind damage and small fruit)
Winston (partial tip bearer, prone to small fruit)
Worcester Pearmain (partial tip bearer, slightly prone to wasp damage)

But many of those may be surpassed by varieties that originate in your area - and some of them may require spraying against various pests or diseases, or may have other problems associated with them.

Deacons nursery used to offer a selection of Scottish apples, grafted to order and despatched immediately after grafting. They don't offer MM111 rootstock.

Blackmoor Nursery and Keepers Nursery offer some hardy varieties on MM111 rootstock - presumably to satisfy the Northern demand.

[littleexperience]

scottishnewbie i would highly recommend you go to you local nurserys they would tell you better.it would do no harm to try to get some which are self fertile or partly self fertile.i had to get some which is hardy because i stay 1000ft asl and also good disease resistance because its alot wetter here in the sw than your place on the east coast. which limited my choice but for you on the east coast you will have a far better choice but get some with good disease resistance

[Galileo]

If you like plums Denninstons Superb plum is often recommended as hardy for the north and is self fertile.

It is advertised as being able to tolerate shade.

[FB.]

A problem with plums is that they flower about a month earlier than apples, which can result in frost-damaged blossom or lack of pollination due to very few bees flying in the cold weather.

Although some plums can be very hardy while dormant, the blossom of most fruit trees is very prone to frost damage.

A tree that has erratic pollination (resulting in light or no crops) tends to channel its energy into very vigorous growth.
By ensuring good pollination, you keep the tree size more manageable and reduce the amount of pruning.
Poor or erratic pollination can easily cause trees to slip into biennial bearing, which can be very difficult to snap them out of, once started.

[FB.]

Bilbo

You're probably cool, dull and wet.
Adding heavy rainfall to your list of problems would dramatically shorten the list of apples that I suggested.

You're probably best looking into varieties that are local to you.

Of those that I listed earlier, I would shorten the list to:

Annie Elizabeth (prone to wind damage)
Crawley Beauty (easily becomes "spur-bound")
Winston (partial tip bearer, prone to small fruit)

With the following as "possible" but perhaps not sufficiently resistant to canker:

Discovery (partial tip bearer, needs good pollination, prone to wasp damage)
Edward VII (needs good pollination)
Falstaff (slightly prone to bitter pit - MM111 might aggravate)
Spartan (prone to small fruit)
Worcester Pearmain (partial tip bearer, slightly prone to wasp damage)


....and with the following possibly too prone to leaf scab and therefore severely defoliated in many seasons with severe loss of vigour (although in these varieties, fruit is resistant to scab).

Court Pendu Plat (prone to small fruit, may need a pollinator, needs a strong rootstock)
Egremont Russet (prone to bitter pit, especially on MM111 rootstock)
Suntan (triploid, so needs good pollination and unable to act as pollinator, prone to bitter pit - MM111 will aggravate)
Tydeman's Late Orange (prone to wind damage and small fruit)

[basketcase]

Not an apple expert by any means, but...

My ex (also in Aberdeen, like me) has James Grieve and Bramley's. And (I think) one more that I can't remember and he's away skiing, so I can't ask!

He does have a back garden with walls, but often suffers from the haars. If that helps.

[FB.]

How about a chat with Butterworth's Nursery?

> Link here <

Although Butterworths appear to be mostly out of stock, they are based in Scotland, so should be able to give good advice, even if they can't supply suitable trees.

[Scottishnewbie]

this has been a BRILLIANT thread - so much great advice - for which i thank you so much. needless to say i still dont know but will follow suggestions and let you know what i go for in the end.

[littleexperience]

i get alot more rain snow and frost than you here 1000ft asl in the galloway hills scottishnewbie but i get great results with egremont russet and katy apple trees also the family next door has a James Grieve which also gets great results so nothing to worry about just keep them in a well sheltered area away from strong winds.

[solway cropper]

Bilbo, I'm a little further north than you and I have a keswick which is a large tree and prolific cropper. The fruit do tend to suffer from scab though, but it's only skin deep.