Propagation of Rootstock

[chrisguk]

Hey guys, i have some M27 rootstocks which i intend to graph apple trees on to. Issue is there are only 2, so i was wondering the best way to acquire more.

Im aware that M27 can send out suckers, or atleast they have on my apple trees, but my 2 were only potted up this year. They have plenty of growth and new branches forming which could potentially become a new M27 tree.

So far ive tried cuttings dipped in root hormone and then potted up in general compost; they lasted a while before eventually dying, but showed no root growth.

Ive also tried 'tying' a small cotton bag filled with vermiculite and perlite to a branch which i cut a small area of bark out in order to expose the cambium to the medium, but to no avail.

Any suggestions?

[FB.]

Due to its slow-growing nature, I think that you'll either have to buy more, or wait quite a while for your stock to increase.
I think that the reason why M27 took about 50 years to reach the market is because it took so long to get the stocks up to sufficient levels.

Keep them well-fed, remove all flower buds during the winter, and during each winter, cut just the top half-inch off the shoots, which should withhold flowering and encourage growth.

You could consider grafting one of them with a vigorous grower, such as Bramley, which would add a lot more growth hormone to the roots - and Bramley is naturally slow to start flowering and fruiting.
By using Bramley to get some growth hormone flowing, you might then be able to encourage it to sucker, or eventually cut off the Bramley part and the rootstock will re-grow what was lost.
Alternatively, you might be able to graft some M27 shoots to a strong rootstock (or seedling rootstock) and after a couple of years, when the M27 is large enough, try burying the tree sideways, with the side shoots sticking out of the ground - the side shoots may well root themselves.
Alternatively, buy an easy-to-find Bramley/MM106 and during the winter, graft the tips of its branches with M27.

But considering that rootstocks are only a couple of quid each, it's probably easier just to buy a few more.
A rootstock such as M26 might be a useful, faster-growing alternative to M27, since M26 can still be restrained in size quite easily (especially if you choose slower-growing varieties to graft onto it).

[chrisguk]

Thanks for the reply FB.

With regards to purchasing more, it was the postage which is a bit off putting, and its rare to find suppliers of rootstock up here.

The reason for trying M27 rootstocks was for their extreme dwarfing which makes them suitable/appropriate for pots as i have no space to plant anymore trees unfortunately.

While the grafting certainly sounds good, my main issue with grafting is that im pretty darned hopeless at it. Ive attempted a few times, budding 2 or 3 times, and winter grafting the once but with no success. If im honest, the reason i purchased some rootstock was to try and graft; and my main reason for propagating the rootstock was to increase my stock in with which to practice.

Have you ever grafted successfully?

[FB.]

Yes, I've grafted various things, although typically only about a dozen a year - and many of them are experiments (some of which fail), which I then give away to other people when the experiment is over.

From my own handywork, I currently have:
Annie Elizabeth/MM111, D'Arcy Spice/seedling root, Bramley/self-rooted, Norfolk Beefing/self-rooted, Catillac/self-rooted (x2), Hessle/self-rooted (the last two being pears). I also have a few dozen Discovery x D'Arcy Spice seedlings, and some ungrafted rootstocks from M26 size upwards.

I am concentrating on own-rooting the vigorous varieties because my soil is so poor and most rootstocks lack the vigour needed to get strong roots down before the shallow soil dries out.
Even MM106 is lucky to reach 7ft by the age of ten years.

Quite often, while dormant, you can get a rootstock and cut it in half a few inches below ground.
As long as the top piece has at least one-third of the roots to keep it going, it will grow more.
Likewise, so long as the bottom piece has at least one-half of the roots, it will have the stored energy reserves to eventually grow a new upper/above-ground level, although it will take a couple of months to show.
I would take care if cutting M27 into two pieces as it's so weak that it might not survive the shock - it'll certainly need a season or two of good feeding and watering.

[chrisguk]

Thanks again for the feedback.

Hopefully ill be able to graft correctly this time around (well, march/april of 2011).

That is slow growth. I have a Laxtons Superb planted in November of the year just passed, which must of grown by a good 2 and half feet up to about 7ft this season alone. The conditions of the back garden are quite variable, and while the site my apples are planted in isn't the sunniest, the previous owners used to use it as a vegetable patch and is filled with pretty good soil; evident by the lush green grass compared to the other side of the garden.

I do have a grafting book, 'Grafters Handbook' but it does go into quite some detail of which im unfamiliar with.

[FB.]

That is slow growth. I have a Laxtons Superb planted in November of the year just passed, which must of grown by a good 2 and half feet up to about 7ft this season alone.

I don't recall ever getting 2.5ft of growth from any tree on any rootstock - and I've got some monsters on strong roots such as M25 and MM111; many of which are grafted with vigorous varieties such as Boskoop, Bramley, Howgate, Jupiter, Tydeman's Orange etc.

My Laxton's Superb or Tydeman's Orange on MM106 manage six to eight inches per year.

[chrisguk]

It has honestly grown by that amount, ive if i remember ill post a picture up.

Most of the growth occurred at the beginning of the hose pipe ban up here that seemed to influence one of the wettest summers ever.

Granted, the growth is quite thin and green, but nether the less, it is growth

My discovery on the other hand must of grown by about 2-3 inches on each leader.