Apple Rootstock MM111

[FB.]

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Here is a picture of the root structure of MM111 apple roots.
This is a young Court Pendu Plat on MM111, a few years old.

Notice the "mop-like" structure of the roots.
MM111 produces large numbers of very fine roots (some of which will travel great distances).
The large numbers of fine roots give a large surface area.
Great for mopping up water and nutrients in the soil.
Especially useful if the soil is low fertility, or prone to droughts.

Despite the roots being long and slender, they are quite strong and difficult to break.
On the left of the picture, you can see a few large "taproots".

The above-ground portion of an MM111 tree is influenced by the rootstock.
MM111 trees tend to have slender stems with lots of "twiggy" side branches.
In other words: the dense roots also seem to influence a compact canopy.

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[jersey bean]

Thanks FB - good to know. Some of our garden is not so much sandy soil, as soily sand!

[BeatTheSeasons]

Do you know where trees grafted onto MM111 rootstock can be purchased?

After extensive searching on Google and at local nurseries, so far the only places I have found are Blackmoor and Keepers - both with a fairly limited range of varieties.

[FB.]

BTS

Which varieties are you interested in and would you consider the more-readily-available M25 (just don't put a "vigorous" T3-type on it such as Bramley).
I space my T3-MM111's and T2-M25's at 3-4 metres. T3-M25's at about 4-5 metre spacing.
The T3-MM111 or T2-M25's grow at about 30-45cm per year when young and when not putting energy into fruit (about 1-1.5ft). The growth rate gradually slows as they build up a spur system and when fruiting, the growth rate is measured in inches.

MM111 trees are hard to find because for "normal" situations, MM106 is only a little smaller and is more fruitful at a younger age. Only a few nurseries stock MM111 and of those that do, Keepers would be my recommendation for healthy, large, strong, quick-to-establish stock. Keepers really are hard to beat for the quality of what you get; their maidens are sometimes twice the size of other nurseries!
I have also heard that Frank P Matthews (the supplier for many garden centres) can supply a limited selection of MM111's "on special request".

I sometimes have spare young trees on MM111 rootstock which are surplus to my needs, so it can be worth dropping me a PM if you have certain varieties in mind. I often propagate/purchase in multiples so that if one dies, I have a spare. This then leaves me with a spare or two.

I also have an order awaiting shipping from Keepers at the moment, so if you are quick, you could "tag along" and I could add one more tree - and you'd benefit from only paying a small portion of the shipping (works out about £2 shipping per maiden tree for larger orders, or about £4 shipping for a 2-3yr half-standard).
A one-year maiden is likely to have a single stem about 3-5ft when planted, with roots about 1ft deep and between 1-2ft in spread. Variation being due to some varieties being much larger/faster growing than others.
Although M25 is strong, it is also sooner to fruit, with more and better fruit than MM111 and from an earlier age. A low-vigour variety or a precocious variety on M25 doesn't have to be a monster of a tree.
M25 would give you a lot more options. I also find that M25 seems to imporve the resistance to powdery mildew, which is a big problem in warm areas with high humidity and drought-stressed plants.

[FB.]

We have a handful of problems to consider when chosing a tree:

A. Tolerance of raised pH.

B. Tolerance of low-fertility/nutrient-deficient/shallow soil.

C. Tolerance of soil which doesn't hold moisture well.

D. Tolerance of long periods without penetrating rainfall.

E. Tolerence of powdery mildew, which preys on drought-stressed and malnourished apple trees; mildew is a potential tree-killer in this area; "putting the boot in" when the tree is already weakened due to poor soil and drought.

F. Tolerance of woolly aphid attack (this refers to the rootstock; the scion is only partially protected by use of a WAA-resistant rootstock and some scions are so attractive that WAA don't care about a supposedly-resistance rootstock).

G. General resistance to soil-borne diseases.


also some other influences of the rootstock:

H. Ability for early fruiting.

I: Fruit quality.

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From a rootstock perspective, based on my experiences:

M9:
A: average.
B: very poor.
C: average.
D: very poor.
E: above average.
F: below average.
G: very good.
H: very good (if well-fed and well-watered).
I: above average.

M26:
A: good
B: average.
C: average.
D: average.
E: below average (but seems to improve resistance to scab in wet years/wet regions).
F: below average.
G: above average.
H: above average (if the roots manage to establish quickly, or if well-fed and well-watered).
I: below average.

M116:
A: average.
B: average.
C: below average.
D: below average.
E: above average.
F: above average.
G: above average.
H: average.
I: average.

MM106:
A: average.
B: good.
C: very poor.
D: average.
E: average.
F: very good.
G: very poor.
H: average.
I: average.

MM111:
A: average.
B: above average.
C: very good.
D: very good.
E: average.
F: very good.
G: above average.
H: below average.
I: below average.

M25:
A: very good.
B: very good.
C: above average.
D: average.
E: above average (but seems to reduce resistance to scab in wet years/wet regions).
F: average.
G: average (but its strong vigour sometimes allows it to outgrow diseases).
H: average (precocious varieties can fruit very early in life - often within a year or two of planting).
I: above average.