Planting an Apple Tree

[WiZeR]

Hi guys

I have finally decided where on the allotment the apple tree is going. Could the forum suggest some tips for this process. It is a 'Minerette' tree which means it grows to about 6ft and stays columnor, i.e doesn't branch out.

I take it I need to stake the tree. Can this be any substantial piece of wood? How far from the root ball should it be driven in?

When digging the hole, should I put anything in other than the rootball? Fertiliser? Blood, Fish, Bone?

All help apprecieated.

[andrewo]

Bare-rooted or pot?

If the tree is bare-rooted you can drive the stake down parallel to the trunk, if it came in a pot, set the stake at a 45 degree angle to the prevailing wind and drive in. The stake must not go through the root ball to do this!

As for feed, make sure the hole is nice and big, plenty of organic matter in the bottom and lightly forked over, add blood, fish and bone or bonemeal to the hole. Then back fill with compost and top soil. You can either leave a dish shape, similar to courgette planting to retain water or just keep your eye on it for the first season and water well.

Tree fruit is a rewarding area of growing, and is easier than raising a cabbage from seed.

[WiZeR]

thanks for the advice andrew, it is a potted tree.

How do I work out where the prevailing wind comes from ?

[Nicos]

Try contacying these people...just an idea!! Website: www.transitionkiteboarding.com
Phone: 020 8378 2138
email: info@transitionkiteboarding.com It's really the strong autumn/winter/spring winds you need to bother about.

[andrewo]

Stand with a piece of paper in your fingertips on a windy(ish) and that will tell you!

[sewer rat]

Or lick your finger, hold it in the air and the side that gets cold tells you where the wind is coming from - just remember to wash your hands first !!!!
Alternatively, just ask some of your neighbouring allotmenteers - over a cup of tea natch!
Rat

[nick the grief]

I think the theory is that so long s the roots don't move the top can sway a bit and this helps strengthen the tree, thats why a lot of people use the angled stake method. Obviously if you have hurricanes it might snap the top off but as it's a column it should be OK.

[andrewo]

It is to strengthen the top but if you have a tree in a pot and not bare rooted, you will cause damage with any stake because you can't see where the stake is going. Whereas with bare rooted, you can put the stake in first. We get high winds around here and I have never had problems with trees getting broken because of the 45 degree method.

[WiZeR]

thanks guys. The apple tree went in today and looks great. Pics on my website.

[andrewo]

Looks good, all I would say is try and do figure of eights with your twine to prevent the tree from rubbing against the stake. But it looks great.

[WiZeR]

I have planted another 3 trees, pear, plum and another apple (details on my website). Andrewo has suggested the following in another thread.

Wizer, noted on your blog that your collar was felt for planting the tree, in case they get too large. To prevent this, because they are pear and cherry, I suggest that you fan train them against a frame. All you need is two post about 2' foot from either side of the tree and that run wire across and tie in the branches into a fan shape and then cut off any that are pointing the wrong way. They will get big and fast. My cherry tree was that size when I bought it 5 years ago, it's now 10' tall.

This messes up my plans a bit, i'm going to have to do some research on fruit tree training. If I space the 4 trees equidistant across the width of the plot, can I train them in the espalier form to kind of 'intermingle' with each other?

[andrewo]

You can espalier apple but pear and cherry are better off fan trained, they will take up less room this way and the roots won't run so far because you are keeping them pruned each season. You can put them along your path and they will have a width of 4-6' but will end up as useful screens. If you leave them in their natural state, then the allotment society, will be feeling your collar quickly, as they will quickly reach a heights, which you won't be able to harvest. There are pros of training trees, you force an earlier crop, instead of getting fruit in the third season after planting, you will be getting it in the second season, you are also getting a larger crop as you are forcing the tree to create spurs in a smaller area and when it comes to harvesting it is far easier to harvest an espalier and fan that are 6' high than a tree canopy that is 6' above you.

[Nicos]

I have a feeling that trained trees 'burn out' and so have a much shorter lifespan. Is this correct?

[WiZeR]

thanks very much Andrew, lots to think about. I will have a hunt about for tree training info.

[WiZeR]

I have a feeling that trained trees 'burn out' and so have a much shorter lifespan. Is this correct?

For the money I paid for the trees i'd be happy to get 5-8yrs, do they 'burn out' quicker than this?