Advice on Apple Grafting

[Garden_Chris]

I've recently bought some 1 year old M26 rootstock from Blackmoors, but I was just unsure about a few things.

Am I able to transfer it to a container for its life? (Im using it to carry a particular variety I like with me to my first house in a few years).
When is the best time to take the scion, and what makes a good scion? What should I do with it when I collect it? Should I store it, or immediately graft it? When is the best time to graft it to the Rootstock?

I was going to use the saddle grafting technique if that helps

[Garden_Chris]

I've got to admit, I've had an extensive search on the internet, and I've not been able to find any advice relating to this.

[FB.]

If I were you, I'd grow-up the rootstocks and bud-graft in late summer. That will give the rootstocks a better chance to repair the root damage suffered when dug up and shipped to you.

If you must graft sooner than next summer, wait until late winter/early spring (e.g. Feb-March) to do the grafting, which must be done before the trees start to leaf-out.
I find that weakened rootstock/scion - such as transplant-stressed rootstocks - don't tend to "take" very well.

Good scion wood comes from the most vigorous shoots which grew during the most recent season. Older wood and weak shoots often don't "take" well.

Ideally, I'd suggest scion and rootstock at least 1/3-inch (8mm) in thickness and preferably a little more, up to about 1/2-inch (12mm). "Pencil thickness" is a commonly-used description.

The most important part is ensuring that the greenish layer just under the bark is in contact as this is where the initial bonding will take place as "scar tissue" forms.

The graft must be well-sealed to prevent drying out while it heals - I use "parafilm" but I see no reason why clingfilm wouldn't work and some people suggest electricians tape (although I find it a bit too stiff to make a good, airtight seal around the graft).

[FB.]

Forgt to ask:
Which variety are you trying to save? Would it not be easier to obtain the same variety ready-grafted from a nursery? It is possible that the old tree which you're taking grafts from is riddled with diseases such as viruses or even canker (I've seen canker infections which strongly appear to have carried themselves through the tree's sap, rather than enter a fresh wound). If the old tree is diseased, it may not produce healthy young trees.

[Garden_Chris]

I'm not especially trying to save a particular variety - and there is no great rush either. I was wanting to do it to simply attempt to learn the skill of grafting for my own enjoyment.

Essentially, In about one or two years, I'm going to have to leave the nest and buy my own house with my girlfriend, but rather than shelling out £20+ for a two year old tree, I thought it'd make sense (and also be enjoyable to watch progress) to graft my own trees (the rootstock themselves cost just £2!) and then transplant them from a container in two years time into the ground at my new home.

So, as well as saving ~£20 I'd learn a new skill, enjoy watching the tree grow, and have them reach a stage where I can easily transport and transplant them into their new home without too much of a shock.

The varieties I would consider grafting from (and I'm going to post about these later) would be Discovery, James Grieves and Fiesta.