Pear tree pruning / training

[FB.]

Thanks FB.

Now I'll admit to being a bit scared, so let's make sure I get this right.

I take all the side shoots off to a couple of inches long, just after a downwards-facing bud? What do I do if there isn't one within that distance? Go further out until I reach one?

It isn't essential to be a downwards-facing bud; it's just desirable since it is more likely to grow nearer the horizontal than an upwards-facing bud, which makes training of the arms an easier task.
In your unique instance (conversion from cordon to espalier) I'd try to cut to a downwards-facing bud, but buds facing forwards would be acceptable, rearwards also acceptable if there is room for the arms to be slightly set back behind the trunk.
Upwards will be trickier to train horizontally, since all buds have a preference to grow upwards (hence the strong top shoots - going straight up - which grew since last year).

The reason I am suggesting shortening the side shoots is to boost their vigour by freeing them of any spurs which may have formed. Lower, horizontal shoots tend to spur much more readily.

And the top - am I amputating the main trunk a couple of inches above the white label? Do I not leave any of the taller upward-pointing branches at all?

Upright shoots will draw all the tree energy and will suppress the growth of lower shoots. If you retain the upright shoots it will become a bush with a 3ft trunk.
So you have two choices:
Either:
1. Cut off the top half of the tree, somewhere in the few inches just above the label (I can't quite make out which branch comes from where - a picture from another angle might help to pinpoint a good place to make the cut).
2. Cut it somewhere around 2ft from the ground, where two short shots (later to become side arms) stick out and where a small length of shoot can grow upwards.
Again, a picture of the trunk, up to the height of the stake, taken from a different angle, would help pinpoint where to cut.

Finally, is there any reason why I shouldn't do it during this particularly cold snap?

I'd prefer to wait a little while, if possible. Sometimes the bud nearest a pruning cut dies if there is a hard frost shortly after pruning.

Who was it on GQT that said "Prune it until you cry. Then prune it some more"? I think I'm beginning to see what they meant.

The reason so many fruit trees become unproductive and ugly is because their owners are either too afraid to prune, or can't be bothered.

[mrbadexample]

Ok. Here's a couple of photos of the bit above the label. Let me know where to lop it, and that's where it'll get lopped.

[mrbadexample]

Secondly, here are some photos of some of the side shoots. If you can give me an idea of where you'd cut these, then I'm pretty sure I'll get the picture and be able to do the others.

[FB.]

How far above ground do you want the lowest set of arms to be? 18 inches?

How far apart (roughly) do you want the tiers of arms to be? 12 inches?

How tall do you want the whole thing to be when mature? 5-6ft?

[mrbadexample]

How far above ground do you want the lowest set of arms to be? 18 inches?

How far apart (roughly) do you want the tiers of arms to be? 12 inches?

How tall do you want the whole thing to be when mature? 5-6ft?

Yes, yes and yes. That all seems about right to me.

[FB.]

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If you're certain that you want to try to re-train it as an espalier.....

Follow the pruning cuts detailed in the next few posts. Thick red lines show the cut.

You may also want to wait to see what others think, as they may have an even better idea.

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[FB.]

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Next cut:

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[FB.]

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Next get rid of the large fruit buds which are controlling the lower shoots. Do this on all of the short side shoots (there are many more than I can be bothered to circle!).

If possible, prune back to a small (shoot-producing) bud.
If no suitable small shoot bud, pinch off the blossom buds (they will often regenerate as shoots instead).

Absolutely do not completely prune off any of the short shoots; you need them to (hopefully) form the arms of the espalier.





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[FB.]

If anything isn't completely clear, you must ask.

When you are done, take a couple of pictures (showing the whole "tree" from different angles) to look for any final tidying-up that may be required.

[mrbadexample]

Ok, the only thing I need to know now is what weather conditions are best. Is it ok to prune it in the rain? The odds of a fine day round here are slim...

[zazen999]

Would you not be best training that as a fan and buying another for an espalier?

Sorry.

[FB.]

Would you not be best training that as a fan and buying another for an espalier?

Sorry.

Yes, it's probably quicker in the long run to buy something specifically trained, or a maiden which can be trained as required.

With the shape it is at present, espalier re-shaping is going to be difficult and a multi-year project!

But the man wants to try, so I offer my best suggestion.

[mrbadexample]

It's a good point Zaz, and something I need to consider before I take the secateurs to it! I'll probably be living somewhere else before it fruits!

I have nowhere else in the garden that I can put a tree, so if I get a new one then this one will have to come out, which would be a shame.

I think as a fan, it would be too high for the fence.

[zazen999]

The idea of an espalier is that it is shallow anyway - I'd buy another [espalier] and put it behind where that one is [closer to the fence] and put that one in a big pot and either train it or leave it be and get some fruit off it.

[FB.]

I'll probably be living somewhere else before it fruits

If you leave it unpruned (and abandon the idea of espalier) you'll probably get some fruit from it this year; there are quite a lot of fruit buds and fruit spurs and a dozen or two pears is quite possible (subject to pollination, pests etc).