Pear tree pruning / training

[mrbadexample]

If you leave it unpruned (and abandon the idea of espalier) you'll probably get some fruit from it this year; there are quite a lot of fruit buds and fruit spurs and a dozen or two pears is quite possible (subject to pollination, pests etc).

To be honest, I like the sound of getting some fruit more than I like the idea of training it for 5 years first.

If I decided to leave it, what would be the best way to train it to maintain a decent shape?

Sorry about this FB, I'm not known for my decisiveness.

[FB.]

If you want fruit leave it unpruned. Also stop the nitrogen fertiliser. Only water if there's a long dry spell during summer.
No pruning and slight starvation is best for fruit.

Post up some pictures in early July in order to determine whether it would benefit from some summer pruning (i.e. techniques to enhance fruiting for 2014 and beyond and to keep the tree a manageable size and shape).

[FB.]

Why leave it unpruned?

Because pruning in winter causes vigorous regrowth and the strong new shoot growth steals nutrients from the fruit - so the fruit is often of lower quality.

Pruning in summer de-vigorates, but on Quince C which has been allowed to start cropping, summer pruning may cause "runt-out". Quince C can grow strongly when it's not cropping, but given the chance it will crop very heavily and this profuse cropping may cause growth of new shoots to virtually cease - so the decision on whether to summer prune a Quince C needs to be assessed in early July.

My suspicion is that it'll probably only need a bit of pruning next winter; probably won't need much if any summer pruning. Of course, if we get a very wet year and/or the soil is good, it may grow more strongly and need calming down. But any summer pruning must only involve shoots which grew that season. Older wood should not be cut into during the growing season; older wood must be left until the tree is dormant before it is pruned, otherwise severe de-vigoration and disease infiltration may result.

[FB.]

Also probably worth mentioning that the blossom buds are beginning to swell on my pear trees and the buds have a hint of light green on them. Each bud produces a cluster of about half a dozen flowers.
Hopefully that'll help you to notice just how much blossom the tree will have.

Can't say I've noticed any signs of life from the apple trees yet though - but apples are usually about three weeks later to show signs of life than pears.
I'd expect plums to have noticeable blossom buds swelling now as they usually flower a little earlier than pears.

[mrbadexample]

Once again FB, many thanks. I'll leave well alone and look forward to the fruit then.

[sugar]

You should remove the label from the tree (or at least loosen it).

[mrbadexample]

You should remove the label from the tree (or at least loosen it).

'twas only paper, loosely held in place, but I have removed it now.

[yummersetter]

Have you lost it yet?

[mrbadexample]

So, having (eventually) decided to let the tree get on with it and fruit this year, is there anything I need to be doing for it at this time? Food? Water?

[FB.]

So, having (eventually) decided to let the tree get on with it and fruit this year, is there anything I need to be doing for it at this time? Food? Water?

Nope. Do nothing.

The only action required might be from June onwards, to water about once per week if there has been no rain - give it about 7-10 litres (a medium to large watering can) about once per week, maybe twice if the weather is hot, dry and the plant shows any signs of water stress such as wilting or yellowing leaves.

[mrbadexample]

Thanks FB. I'm good at doing nothing - I've got extensive experience.

[FB.]

....... if the weather is hot, dry ........

.

Yeah, alright, you can stop laughing now.