Caring for an old apple tree

[Watkins]

I have recently moved into a house with an old apple tree that has been neglected over the years. Its approximately 50 years old. Last winter I removed about 1/3rd of the inward growth and crossing branches. I am also treating it for scab! Does anyone have any ideas on what pruning I should do this winter? Any help and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks Andrew

[rustylady]

Hello Andrew, welcome to the Vine. FB is our resident fruit expert, and he'll probably be along shortly to help with your queries.

Whereabouts are you? It helps if you add your location to your profile, then it shows on your posts and we don't need to keep asking you.

[Watkins]

Hi, I live in Caerphilly, South Wales. Many thanks for your help

[veggiechicken]

Croeso Watkins. I'm just over the mountain from you in Kairdiff. Watch out for Chris, he lives near you
Can't help you with the apple tree - sorry: I have a dozen or so 70 year old apple trees - they're so big I just let them get on with life

[Kleftiwallah]

Is there a horticultural / agricultural college near you? I'm sure the tutors whould like the students to have a go (under tuition of course).

Cheers, Tony.

[Watkins]

Croeso!! I only have one so thought I should try and salavage it! Its looking a bit sick though

[veggiechicken]

You will be asked for more info on how its looks sick! Photos too probably. Be prepared

[Watkins]

Another picture is below. It maybe a Bramley but not sure. I dont know if its best to thin it out in the middle or take the height and width off it.

[veggiechicken]

I'm going to BUMP this for you Watkin as the Fruity Folk seem to have missed it

[FB.]

There's too much upright growth. Upright shoots are vigorous and don't tend to fruit.
If you prune the upright shoots in winter they will just grow back - and twice as many.
I would suggest complete removal (cut right back to the branch they originate from to help prevent re-growth) of the whippy upright shoots this winter - give the tree a re-shaping after the leaves have fallen (don't remove more than about one-third of its mass) and then follow this up with taking out the new vigorous upright shoots next summer - only the new shoots which are growing upwards; other shoots should be left.
Getting the upright growth under control will dramatically increase the quantity and quality of fruit because upright shoots also draw resources away from fruits on lower branches, which reduces the fruit quality and can encourage bitter pit.

The picture is too far away to identify any diseases.

[Watkins]

Hi Guys thanks so much for your help. FB I'm going to have a go at this winter at the top growth, and hope this will encourage the rest of the tree to fruit better. One last thing there is quite a bit of moss and lichen on the main trunk is this OK or does it need to be treated? Whats the best method of treating apple scab. I am constantly cleaning old apples and fallen leaves every week in the hope it will help prevent the spread next year

[FB.]

On larger trees it is not easy to treat scab. Every time there are water droplets on the fruit for at least six hours, the scab spores will start to germinate. The spores will be in the environment and blowing on the wind from other trees.
Just a single scab spot a few millimetres in size on just one leaf or fruit can produce thousands of spores - and it only takes one spore to start a rapidly-progressing infection.

Even if you're picking up fallen scabby fruit, there may be diseased old trees nearby which are releasing spores which blow onto yours via the wind.
Having said that: scab doesn't find it as easy to jump from one variety of tree to another (e.g. from Cox to Bramley), as it does to jump between two trees of the same variety (e.g. from your neighbour's Cox to your Cox). This is part of what I've suggested before that most of the current apples diseases have become quite specialised to attack the common varieties. Less-common and unrelated varieties tending to much less affected by diseases.

Some varieties are more prone to certain diseases than others, and certain diseases are more commonly seen in different areas. Some seasons are more favourable to certain diseases due to the variation in rainfall and temperature from one year to the next.

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