Apple tree pruning advice

[Likac66]

So I have just got my first allotment and I was very excited when I was told it had an apple tree on it.

However, the apple tree dominates the plot. It is clearly on a dwarf rootstock and the branches hang down very low, meaning it is impossible to get underneath it. Also the branches are so wide they span the whole width of the plot. I want to keep the tree, but I would like it a more managable size.

My dad has offered to come up with his chainsaw to help prune it. He is an experienced gardener and farmer but I know he can be a little heavy handed! I am willing to sacrifice this year's crop to make the tree more managable but I don't want my dad to kill it off completely. I will attach a photo of the tree and would love any advice and feedback on the best way to tackle the tree.

Thanks.

[rustylady]

FB is our fruit expert and no doubt he will be along soon with advice for you.

However, I would definitely say NO CHAINSAW

[Likac66]

I think you would need a chainsaw to take off a couple of the bottom branches, they are so thick.

[orangepippin]

This does not look like a dwarf apple tree, it seems far too big. A dwarf apple tree could not span an average allotment plot, it would spread about 2m at most. I think you have a full-size or seedling apple tree on your hands.

The branches look very congested so it probably hasn't been managed for a while. I'm not a great believer in chainsaws for pruning, but in this case it could be justified!

I think you have two options. The first is to carry out a substantial prune, aiming to restore some shape to the tree, and bring light back into it. Given the state of the tree this might need to be done over 2 or even 3 years.

The second option is to dig it out and replace it with a new tree, which, in a similar timescale, will give you a decent crop of apples and be more manageable within the confines of the allotment.

If you can get some assurance from your fellow plot holders that the current tree fruits, then it is probably worth taking the first option and giving it a chance. However there is a lot to be said for a fresh start.

[FB.]

As orangepippin says: it's not a dwarf.
More likely a "medium vigour" MM106 which has enjoyed growing in the good soil on the allotment.

Do you know which variety it is?

I don't like the chainsaw option, but as the tree seems quite vigorous and as it's dormant, you'll probably get away with it. It would be better to leave neat pruning cuts using an ordinary saw. Ragged pruning cuts may get infected and suffer rot or canker.

But don't prune all of it in one winter; it'll take a few winters to get it right.
Take no more than one-third of the branches. Preferably remove whole branches at their point of origin - this should reduce the amount of watersprouts it produces and should allow it to continue partial cropping while being renovated.

So perhaps for this winter, take out any obviously dead branches, and then about a quarter to a third of the tree mass by removing the lower branches. This will convert it from a shrubby bush into a half-standard with about 3-4ft clear trunk. In January-February 2014 you can then remove the next-lowest branches and it will become a standard with 4-6ft trunk.

If the winter pruning causes masses of upright shoots (the dreaded watersprouts) prune off most of them at their point of origin during July-August. Do not cut off shoots which aren't growing more-or-less upwards, and only take out those which have just sprouted during that growing season.

The biggest risk to the tree's survival are:
1. Never cut into the trunk.
2. Do not prune into matured wood (previous season's growth or older) of an old tree while it is in leaf.
3. Do not prune off more than one-third of the tree's mass.
4. Do not try to transform the tree all in one season.
5. Do not prune an older tree while it has leaves on, except to remove unwanted watersprouts.
6. Untidy pruning cuts will rot, become cankered, or become colonised with woolly aphids.

[Likac66]

Thank you! Apparently it is an excellent cropper and the Allotment Secretary thinks it's a Worcester.

It is really the lower trunks I want to remove to start with so I think the advice you have given should fit in with that. I thought it might be dwarf as it is so wide rather than tall - like you say, a bush rather than a tree. My dad is planning on coming up in two weeks time at the end of January so again I think I have fallen lucky with the timing.

Is there any way to safely trim back the length of some of the branches?

Thank you so much for the advice.

[horticultural_hobbit]

Would this advice extend to a falstaff corden that is in a big pot? Produced all of four apples last year. And I have a Victoria plum too.

[FB.]

Safely trim back the length? Yes, but by heading-back you will lose the crop for a season or two, and may have vigorous regrowth to contend with.
If you raise the trunk height by removing lower branches, you can then grow crops underneath it. Currants, raspberries, alpine strawberries, rhubarb, lettuce, carrots and potatoes will all tolerate partial shade to varying degrees.
What are you looking to achieve by trimming back the length of the branches?

I think it is short-stemmed because of the way it was pruned (or not) in the past.
The form is has taken is the typical bush habit. Apples only become trees when people prune off their lower branches (preferably when the branches are small!).

I would not be at all surprised if it's a Worcester, although seeing it in bloom, in leaf and in fruit would be much easier. Its dense, twiggy, round-head and stocky appearance definitely matches with the Worcesters that I've encountered before, and my own Worcester's behaviour.

But being a Worcester would make me more cautious about pruning, for two reasons.
1. It's a tip-bearer. If you follow my suggestion of entire branch removal it will continue cropping well. If you shear it all over, you will prune off all the tips and have no fruit.
2. Worcester can be prone to canker in some areas - especially wet areas.

There is a risk that the pruning cuts may get infected with canker (or woolly aphids which later encourage canker), so make the cuts as neatly as possible and keep an eye on the pruning cuts for development of canker in the next couple of years - and scoop-out any small cankers with a penknife before they get established.
If possible, prune it when the weather has been dry for at least a day, and when it is expected to be dry for a few days after pruning. If it was my tree, I might be tempted to prune it very late in winter, as per cherries and plums, which are pruned just as the buds start to swell in order to reduce the chances of canker infection (the sap is flowing, its defences are activated and the wounds will heal quicker if sap is flowing and temperatures are warmer).

[FB.]

Would this advice extend to a falstaff corden that is in a big pot? Produced all of four apples last year. And I have a Victoria plum too.

In a word: No.
Pruning will depend on how the tree is shaped now, and what you want it to become.
Plums should be pruned when the buds start to swell (to reduce risk of canker and silverleaf).
Cordons are usually pruned in summer to control vigour, although if vigour is low they may be best pruned in winter to re-invigorate.
Some pictures of them would be helpful, and a quick summary of what you want to achieve from them.

[Likac66]

I was thinking of trimming back some of the longer branches that are lower down just to make it easier for me to get round the tree but I'll see how it looks after we take off the bottom branches. It would definitely be useful to be able to plant some stuff underneath else there will be a lot of wasted ground.

I'll let you know how we get on.