Top-working an apple tree

[Randommoose]

I am planning on grafting onto a mature apple tree in my garden. The current tree has apples that I do not like the taste of. Also it was not productive (though it has been a bit neglected). I have bought a Rosette maiden to graft onto it. This tree will be planted (either ground or pot) in case the grafting doesn't work and I need to try again next year! I will be continuing to grow and train the Rosette tree in case none of the grafting works, in which case I will keep the Rosette instead!

I need some advice about timings. My basic knowledge is that the grafting is not done until the tree is shooting (e.g. March). Am I correct that the scions need to be cut now while the donor tree is dormant and refrigerated until March?

I will also need advice on the best places to graft to make a fan trained tree.

This is the mature tree last summer:


and this is it now:


Close up of basic framework:



As you can see, it is a bit of a wonky shape but hopefully manageable to graft and train into an informal fan. The problem is working out what will need cutting and what won't!

Continued...

[Randommoose]

...continued

My thoughts for potential grafts:
(Red cuts, green grafts, yellow cuts next winter if grafts have taken well)


An example 3 year plan (Red cuts, orange year one, light orange year two, yellow year three)


Do you think those places will work or can you suggest better positions for the grafts? I will hopefully be doing a few grafts in each place for better chance of success.

Randommoose

[FB.]

I notice the existing tree has knobbly patches on the trunk and lower branches. This, along with fruit of mediocre quality, makes me suspect that the "tree" is just a rootstock; the original graft(s) having been accidentally cut off at some point, or the graft died, or it was never grafted.

I don't see a problem with grafting where you've marked red lines - but you're going to be busy grafting and re-training it in coming years!
I would use "cleft grafts" - one on each side of the branches which are cut.

The scion wood being grafted must be dormant or it will not "take" because if it's in growth it will dry out too quickly. It doesn't matter about dormancy or not of the tree receiving the graft.

[orangepippin]

FB, do you see any issues with the extent of pruning that is proposed? Cutting such a large amount of the tree away will lead to a substantial imbalance between the root and the remaining aerial parts of the tree. There will be a lot of pressure from the root system and the grafts may not take as a result, or may be overwhelmed by the new growth that will sprout all over. I wonder if you should leave some of the original tree in place to take some of the pressure?

[Randommoose]

Orange Pippin, that is why I will be leaving the yellow cuts until after the grafts have taken and grown well. That leaves about a third of the tree uncut.

[boundtothesoil]

Orange Pippin, that is why I will be leaving the yellow cuts until after the grafts have taken and grown well. That leaves about a third of the tree uncut.

The following taken from MAFF Bulletin 207 'Apples' (1972, p.141) on top-working trees is probably relevant to this:-

'All small branches below the general level of grafting, commonly known as 'sap drawers' , should be left intact for at least a year in order to feed the roots and retain life in the tree. Experience has shown that, where there is a limited number of sap drawers, one or two branches of the old variety should be left intact for the same purpose. These may be grafted one or two years later or removed entirely when growth from the new scions is abundant.''

[FB.]

FB, do you see any issues with the extent of pruning that is proposed? Cutting such a large amount of the tree away will lead to a substantial imbalance between the root and the remaining aerial parts of the tree. There will be a lot of pressure from the root system and the grafts may not take as a result, or may be overwhelmed by the new growth that will sprout all over. I wonder if you should leave some of the original tree in place to take some of the pressure?

Yes, one of my first thoughts was "wow, that's a lot of pruning". As is often the case; The tree has been left for far too long before remedial action was/is taken.
But I actually wonder whether the regrowth might be less than expected because several years worth of growth will be removed (not just one or two years worth) and I doubt whether the tree can grow it all back in one season.

But I would prepare for a lot of problems arising with "watersprouts" competing with the grafts. Personally I'd be inclined to regularly pinch-out the watersprouts in order to remove the growing tip and channel then energy to tips which are still growing.

[Randommoose]

Thank you all for your advice and information, it is very helpful.

The house was empty for about 3 years before we bought it hence why the apple tree has been so neglected. We got it last August.

I will cut and refrigerate some scions in the next few days. When I do the grafting, I will keep the 'sap-drawing' branches intact for a year and then cut if the grafts have grown well (as shown by the yellow cuts in the first altered photo). I will pinch out the watersprouts and see how it goes. I'll let you know once I do it and keep you updated on progress!

Thanks,
Moose

[Randommoose]

Just an update - I grafted the Rosette scions onto the tree a few weeks ago. No signs of any life yet - how long do I need to wait to know if it has worked?

They were rind grafts in the end as I could not split the wood to do cleft grafts (I practised on the pruned bits not the tree!).

[boundtothesoil]

J- how long do I need to wait to know if it has worked?

Looks nice. I'd leave it another 4 weeks at least before fiddling with the scions. I've found that in most of the grafts I've made, the scion wood is later to leaf out than either the rootstock or, in the case of top worked grafts, the original variety. In a few cases, with a top worked scion and my dodgy grafting technique, I've found it has taken all summer to produce one opened bud!

There's quite a lot of the original tree left in your case, and its transport systems for water, nutrients, sugars and hormones are going to carry pretty much as normal, 'ignoring' the tiny scions, until the unions between scions and tree are fully functional. This involves synthesis of new tissue and Spring has really only sprung fairly recently.