What direction to plant a row of apple and pear cordons?

[FoxHillGardener]

I'm doing three apples and three pears on oblique cordons on my plot.

Would I be better running the rows north-south or east-west? They'll be up to 6 foot tall so will cast some shade. If I run them north-south at the eastern end they'd only shade the access path and a patch of brambles a bit in the afternoon

On the other hand, east-west would expose the whole of the south side to the most sun but create shade on either my plot or a a narrow path and next door's plot in the middle of the day. I guess allotment etiquette means I should avoid shading next door and a bit of midday shade in high summer miught be ok for my lettuces


any thoughts?

[Aberdeenplotter]

allotment etiquette most important consideration for me.

[sugar]

Standard orientation for fruit trees is north-south

[orangepippin]

I agree with Sugar, and the cordons should be leaning towards the north.

6 cordons won't create much shade - far less than a row of runner beans!

[Aberdeenplotter]

Yes but runner beans are a temporary crop,trees are permanent. it is totally unacceptable to plant something which will permanently affect someone elses growing area.

[FB.]

I guess allotment etiquette means I should avoid shading next door and a bit of midday shade in high summer might be ok for my lettuces
any thoughts?

Definitely don't do to others (and their plots) what you would not want done to yourself (or your plot).

But as OP and Sugar have said: North-to-South is the usual preferred direction, so from what you said only the access path and a few brambles will suffer shading. So it's all good.

[orangepippin]

Yes but runner beans are a temporary crop,trees are permanent. it is totally unacceptable to plant something which will permanently affect someone elses growing area.

We often hear of allotment associations mistakenly banning fruit trees because of this type of concern. A row of cordons will not permanently affect someone else's growing area though - even when in full leaf they don't create that much shade. Dwarf apple trees on M27 rootstocks are also very "plot-friendly".

In contrast runner beans may be a temporary crop, but during the growing season - when it really matters - they can quickly form a high and inpenetrable hedge up to 8ft high.

[Aberdeenplotter]

I'm not advocating banning fruit trees. I'm simply saying that that if planted, due consideration should be given to neighbouring allotments. If there is an alternative to planting so that it affect a neighbours plot, the alternative should be followed.

I have a couple of apple trees on my own allotments both of which are planted so that only my plots are affected by shading.

[FB.]

We often hear of allotment associations mistakenly banning fruit trees because of this type of concern.

Probably because the majority of allotment growers buy cheap trees from the likes of ALDI, LIDL etc and such trees are on the MM106, St.Julien A and Quince A rootstocks, which, on fertile, moisture-retentive soils, can get quite large - especially when the MM106 is grafted with monsters like Bramley (because people tend to buy what they are familiar with).

[BUFFS]

Probably because the majority of allotment growers buy cheap trees from the likes of ALDI, LIDL etc and such trees are on the MM106, St.Julien A and Quince A rootstocks, which, on fertile, moisture-retentive soils, can get quite large - especially when the MM106 is grafted with monsters like Bramley (because people tend to buy what they are familiar with).

their bramleys do make a cracking espalier though,4 tier and loads of fruit whatever the weather,still pulling tubs of stewed apple out of freezer,to go with lots of custard on these bitter cold days,mmmmmm,lovely

[FoxHillGardener]

We have a maxiumum height limitation of 6 feet fro anything. Whether that's actually imposed on runner beans I've yet to find out, but that's why I'm doing the oblique cordons on a 6 foot frame.

I wasn't really going to shade next door, honest, it was more about the N-S, E-W decision. Seems like my best bet is running the frame N-S, pointing the top of the trees N and having it at the east end of my plot. Typical. That's the only bit I've not cleared and dug over yet. Sigh. Something to keep me busy this weekend

[Aberdeenplotter]

Do enjoy

[DuncanM]

I've just finished sticking in 6 posts on the edge of my allotment (allotment runs N-S), so perfect for apple tree planting. I'll be planting 14 trees, a mix of M26 and MM106, trained as espaliers with 4 tiers, with 12 inches between each tier, and the first tier starting 24 inches of the ground.

I've not spoken to my neighbouring plot holder, but I've never seen them around in the few months I've had the allotment. However a combination of things makes me think it's OK; their poly tunnel and shed are immediately on our shared border casting shadows over my plot, the trees will be kept at 6 feet high at most, the space between the branches ensures that a very good amount of light will always get through, I've only planted them this year - it'll take a good few years - 10+ I think, before the branches get so thick that the 12 inch gap might be a problem. In that time I'll have hopefully got enough land I own myself to either transplant them or cut them down at the allotment. Ideally I'd have let the neighbours know in advance, but I've not seen them.