Which type of apple tree?

[Paulieb]

We have an unknown plum tree in the field at the back, shared with next door. I'd guess its about 4m tall, perhaps more, and I can now identify canker on some of the lower branches. Next door planted it so I'm reluctant to spray or prune it until I speak to them, which I plan to do.

My apple is a Redlove, which I bought from T&M, on a whim. Can't remember the rootstock, though pretty sure its one of the dwarf roots. I'm growing this on the north side of my main veg plot as a bush/half standard (only 2 years old and not too many branches so will see how it grows this year).

I'm glad I've decided not to rush this decision as there are so many variables. (Which fruit (and variety), how many, what shapes).

I agree that a single form will look best (whether thats a row of cordons, one big fan, or maybe a few double cordons, or U-shaped palmettes).

[FB.]

I have a handful of pears.
Doyenne d'Ete (very early), Jargonelle (Early), Williams (early-mid), Louise Bonne de Jersey (mid), Conference (mid-late), Concorde (late) and Josephine de Malines (very late).

The biggest problem for me has been the difficulty in getting pears on anything other than Quince rootstock, which does not tolerate light sandy soils, does not tolerate any alkalinity (chalk) and does not tolerate drying-out in summer.

My current pears are a mixture of Quince-A (which does badly except in wet years), Pyrodwarf and Pyrus.communis/pear seedling.

The biggest problem with pears is the often-short storage life and tendency of earlies to rot from the core despite looking normal from the skin appearance (especially if grown on Quince stocks).

[FB.]

Oh - I should add that many of those I grow are tip-bearers or part-tip-bearers, which are less suitable for training and restricted forms.

I prefer tip and part-tip bearers because they tend to have more attractive blossom displays, tend to cope better with minimal pruning/"no-prune" (semi-neglect) and the weight of fruit on the branch tips tends encourage more spreading growth rather than the often-awkward vertical habit (which puts fruit out of easy-picking reach).

[yummersetter]

I find pear storage to be the same problem, and only have Comice, Concorde, Gourmande, Jargonelle, Nouveau Poiteau, Louise Bonne, and Shinseiki. But when they're picked at the right time and stored properly a soft ripe pear dripping with juice is uniquely delicious and like a different fruit to the hard-as-a-rock green jobs you get in the shops. I have a Concorde fan on a south facing wooden shed wall and its the best of the lot, large, disease free and ripens well - the best of the crop have to be stored in a spare fridge and a days worth taken out at a time to finally ripen over 24 hours.

[FB.]

Yes, a good pear does not go "crunch" when bitten into!

A good pear should be able to be eaten almost silently and it should taste absolutely delicious - better than most apples.

Getting the correct ripeness is important (including location and climate) but South-ish-facing walls work in most parts of the country, and certain varieties (usually early or mid-season but not late-season) will often do well as bushes even in cool, dull seasons.

In cold or difficult areas, pear seedling/Pyrus.communis rootstocks are much hardier than Quince rootstocks.

[Paulieb]

Right, back to the drawing board.....

You may have seen my recent post regarding my 'orchard', and regarding my garage wall, we've just had the patio re-layed and my wife is not keen to put an apple tree by the garage which could potentially affect the patio in years to come, would a dwarf rootstock grow this much?

So what could go here, which wouldn't affect the patio.

I do have a Kiwi Issai in a pot from last year. Or perhaps a fan trained currant? Or I wouldn't mind buying something new.

[FB.]

Apple trees in particular have quite small, sparse root systems compared to other trees - one of the reasons they tend to lean or fall over!
An apple tree would have to get very big in order to cause subsidence or ground-heave. It is generally the size of the tree that makes the most difference. A 5ft tree would be no risk, while a 30ft tree of any type would be risky. Besides: when does a bush become a tree? All plants have roots and it is quite possible that a decorative bushy shrub would have roots as large as a tree of similar size.

A dwarf rootstock such as M26 or M9 would have almost zero risk of ground heave - same as planting a rose bush. A medium vigour rootstock such as M116 or MM106 would only pose a threat only in really good soil or with a particularly vigorous variety. If the soil is really poor even the vigorous rootstocks might not get big enough to pose a threat.