what sort of fruit tree should i get

[rita1]

What a lovely Easter it turned out to be, we have spent all Easter outside tiding up.
first off we got rid of the duck pond, taken down the fencing panels and pulled up all the slabs, i have dug the area and i am now looking at what to put in this area.
could i grow a fruit tree up against the garage it's in a south facing area but also sheltered from the wind, i would love to grow a apple, pear or maybe a cherry, but i am worried that the roots will grow under the garage and cause problems, any suggestions on what to grow, also something that will not be to big, has anyone else grown fruit up against their house or garage and has been problem free.

[FB.]

You're very unlikely to have a problem with roots near buildings if you choose a semi-dwarfing rootstock such as:

Apple: M9 or M26
Pear: Quince C
Plum: Pixy
Cherry: Gisela 5

But contrary to what "the books" say, not all varieties on the same rootstock will reach the same size. Bramley, to name just one of many examples, is often a monster grower which can make dwarf rootstocks behave like they're on steroids.

Often the soil near to buildings is quite poor - brick rubble, alkaline residues from cement and the blocking of rainfall from one direction can make the soil quite dry. In more difficult soils plants will inevitably grow more slowly as a result: some may not grow at all.

If you're going to grow something, make it something that you can't buy from the shops.
Bear in mind that cherries will need netting to protect from birds - cherries are among the first fruits to ripen in early summer, and everyone - including the birds - eagerly devour the first fresh fruits of the season. The birds are happy to eat the fruit several days before it is ripe enough for human palates.

[orangepippin]

I agree with FB's comments.

A south-facing wall would be ideal for a fan-trained plum tree, which will really benefit from the warmth of the wall. I have also used the St. Julien rootstock (for plums and other stone fruit) near walls without any issues - it has the benefit of being a bit more vigorous than Pixy.

[FB.]

I have also used the St. Julien rootstock (for plums and other stone fruit) near walls without any issues

Yes, I would not be too concerned about the medium-vigour rootstocks (MM106, Quince A, St.Julien A).

Problems with foundations tend to be the result of very large, often very old trees, when growing on quite heavy soils (clays in particular) which swell with the autumn-winter rains and shrink in summer as a result of vast trees sucking out all the moisture. Parts of Fenland, with their heavy clay soils but low summer rainfall are particularly at risk due to the large fluctuation in soil moisture throughout the year.
This is then compounded by the often-poor foundations on old properties (and also many decades of gradual ground movement).
Old houses tended to only sit on "footings" directly under each wall, but many modern houses have been built on thick reinforced concrete "rafts" which "float" as the soil moves and are therefore much more resistant to subsidence.

Most apple trees, in most locations, regardless of rootstock (even seedling) will probably never reach a size that's able to threaten a building - at least, not in the lifetime of the person who planted it.

I would be more cautious with cherries as they do tend to grow quickly and grow huge roots which can literally lift things out of the ground.

Pears on pear seedling rootstocks, on good soils, might also pose a threat in the long term, simply because pear seedling rootstock may live 200-300 years and even growing slowly (several inches per year) the tree will reach a vast size by that time - but the building will probably have fallen down by then anyway!

Fast-growing, water-hungry trees - such as willow - are the most destructive.

Had the large trees been controlled (or removed before getting too large) they would not have got so large and the building would not be threatened. But for some reason people don't bother to regularly prune trees (nor remove those which may later be troublesome), yet they prune their hedges, they prune their roses and they prune (mow) their lawn!

[rita1]

thank you all for your replies, it is something to consider, another thought has anyone grown a pear or cherry tree in a big pot, just another thought on containing the roots, my hubby is not to keen on me planting anything near the house.

[BUFFS]

thank you all for your replies, it is something to consider, another thought has anyone grown a pear or cherry tree in a big pot, just another thought on containing the roots, my hubby is not to keen on me planting anything near the house.

just a thought,how about those climbing strawberries....

[FB.]

thank you all for your replies, it is something to consider, another thought has anyone grown a pear or cherry tree in a big pot, just another thought on containing the roots, my hubby is not to keen on me planting anything near the house.

The same rootstocks I listed earlier, are also suitable for growing in large pots.

Apple: M9 or M26
Pear: Quince C
Plum: Pixy
Cherry: Gisela 5

Also there's the extremely dwarfing apple rootstock M27 which is good for pots - it makes a "tree" so small that it can be smaller than some rose bushes.
But the more dwarfing the rootstock, the less able it is to take care of itself or recover from a snapped branch. Really dwarf rootstocks may need repotting about every three years because they will not grow well in depleted/infertile soil, and they may need a litre of water most days in dry summer weather.

[sugar]

You really do not need to be scared of planting an apple tree on M9 an even M26 near the house, or a pear tree on Quince A. Those trees need a permanent stake to support the tree (because the roots do not develop sufficiently). Don't forget that most apple and pear varietes don't self-pollinate .

[rita1]

well i have ordered a red haven peach tree, apricot moorpark and a sunburst cherry. i ordered them from garden bargins, they were £7 and they are 2 years old.
i have ordered 30L pots for them to go into, what soil should i use to fill the pots with.
i have always wanted a cherry tree and now i can have one that won't take over my garden.
these are self pollinating trees. any advice would be grateful on how to look after these as i have never had dwarf tree's before.