Braeburn Apple Tree Question

[21again]

Thanks for you advice, I shall leave the blossom on the cherry and take the growths off the apple roots below the graft when I plant it.

Ta.

[boundtothesoil]

From the picture the rootstock is the bit throwing out shoots, it is below the graft.
.

I agree with Kirk. I'd carefully cut them right off, then plant asap, or else you'll end up with rootstock suckers growing, rather than your Braeburn. At least you've got some new root growth - there must be a chance of life.

[yummersetter]

Can I be brutal? Throw it away. Buy the best tree you can, there are thousands of good ones out there, why give your space and time to a weakling.

[21again]

Well, I had a look at the rootstock growths and they just snap off so will do that.

Throw it away!

I like a challenge so will see what comes of it.

[FB.]

I think what happened with the apple tree is:

The tree was put on display in a warm shop, thought it was spring, so sent out some new roots to power 2013's shoot growth. However, the roots encountered daylight rather than damp soil, so, like a potato exposed to light for more than a few days, the roots turned green to soak up the light and begin photosyhtheszing.

The green roots would be best removed, but the white ones would be best left untouched. I would be especially vigilant for the emergence through the soil around the trunk of further root suckers, since once a tree begins to sucker it can end up looking more like a raspberry patch than a fruit tree due to large numbers of shoots bursting out of the ground - these shoots, being rootstock, may produce crab apples or apples or poor quality and not the same as the variety grafted to the rootstock.
Root suckers need to be removed as soon as they are seen - any delay whatsoever in their removal allows them to build strength and multiply in number.

[21again]

I think what happened with the apple tree is:

The tree was put on display in a warm shop, thought it was spring, so sent out some new roots to power 2013's shoot growth. However, the roots encountered daylight rather than damp soil, so, like a potato exposed to light for more than a few days, the roots turned green to soak up the light and begin photosyhtheszing.

The green roots would be best removed, but the white ones would be best left untouched. I would be especially vigilant for the emergence through the soil around the trunk of further root suckers, since once a tree begins to sucker it can end up looking more like a raspberry patch than a fruit tree due to large numbers of shoots bursting out of the ground - these shoots, being rootstock, may produce crab apples or apples or poor quality and not the same as the variety grafted to the rootstock.
Root suckers need to be removed as soon as they are seen - any delay whatsoever in their removal allows them to build strength and multiply in number.

Thanks very much for your advice.

I took the green shoots off earlier this morning before I planted it and the white ones were so delicate, they all snapped when I took it out of the bucket of water to plant.