New Orchard

[Paulieb]

Can't go wrong with what FB said.

What's the reasoning behind your spacing? How is it you can put mm106 trees so closely together, compared to the recommendations (about 4X that)?

Is it because of the form you have chosen (vertical cordons)? In other words, you don't want a developed crown head or spreading like a bush or standard. By restricting it's width and directing growth upwards, does that make close planting possible? Will you have to do more training and pruning to keep its column shape, when it want to be a big tree? Or will you be feeding/watering it to make it fruit. I imagine the amount of fruit you get will be a lot less than the same tree allowed to develop normally. Is that why you plan on 8 apple trees, to increase the overall amount you get?

Also, are the varieties you've chosen vigorous and upright in habit? What do you mean by "freely spurring" as opposed to spurring. Where did you find the information regarding each variety.

Keepers have plenty of information regarding rootstocks and varieties, and as they are well spoken of, particularly on here, then thats good enough for me to use their information. They quote (amongst other information) that "MM106 Suitable forms Half standard, bush, cordon, espalier, container". They also have, for each variety, vigor, habit, cropping habits, etc.

Another good source is "The Apple Book, (Rosie Sanders)". I got a copy for 15 quid and it was an excellent purchase. Its worth it just for the drawings, but as well it could be used for identifying 140 different apples. Its has detailed info on rootstocks, pollination, tree forms, variety classifications, recommended cultivars, pests, diseases, etc, etc.

It is in this book that some varieties are spur bearers, and others are decribed as 'spurs very freely', such as, Arthur Turner.

Regarding cordons The Apple Book recommends 2'6" (75cm) for cordons on M27, M9 and M26. And for MM106, 2'6" to 3'.

Regarding feeding and watering I'm hoping they'll be okay to get on with it (which should produce a stronger tree, but they are in the garden and within reach of a hosepipe (if we ever get a super dry summer). And as long as I stay on top of the summer pruning they should stay in control. If I had an orchard with no running water then I'd be putting in standards or half standards with the usually larger spacings.