In the northern hemisphere the cordon should be aligned north-south, with the tip pointing north. However if your row is aligned east-west then I would perhaps have them pointing east.
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raised bed planting - oblique apple cordons
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Yes, I thought as much. Having them reclining back and soaking up the sun, as it rises (as if on a sun lounger!) Unfortunately, I had little choice over the positioning of the raised bed and orientation. Vegs grew perfectly well in it, but then they were standing upright. I had considered having the cordons as vertical too, but then fancied having them oblique having recently seen some. With a bit of luck they might be more productive than if vertical (direction aside.)
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I've ordered the m26 cordons and have things ready, but need some advice on planting.
For oblique cordons I've read 3 versions of how to plant (two from different RHS books.)
1) Plant vertically and gradually lower over a few seasons, by 5 degrees until they are at 45 degrees.
- This is meant to allow them to grow in height/length and then the oblique angle comes into effect later, when fruiting and not growth is wanted. However, is this possible? Is there enough flexibility in the cordon? Might it snap, or come apart at the graft?
2) Plant at the oblique 45 degrees to begin with and make sure all the roots are buried underground.
- This will mean also burying a bit of the cordon, as the were grown vertically with the roots on either side, but tilt them 45 degrees and one side of the roots will stick up above ground level. Therefore by burying a bit deeper (but not near the graft) all the roots will be covered.
3) Same as number 2), but with trimming the side of the roots that are sticking up above the normal soil level. In effect you cutting a portion of the roots off when planting.
What are peoples thoughts and experiences on the way to plant cordons. Which of the 3 ways is the best, or most widely done (and safest to ensure no damage to the cordon!)
Thanks
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I think somewhere between (2) and (3) is the best way. If a lot of root has to be pruned away you might also need to cut back some length on the stem, but see how it goes in the spring. It doesn't matter if the graft union gets a bit closer to the ground than it would if vertically planted.
I have not heard of (1) and am not sure how it would work. An oblique cordon operates like a single branch on a regular tree, so it is quite capable of both growing and fruiting.
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I'm with orangepippin on this. One possible advantage of M26 rootstock, certainly under the dampish growing conditions I have, is that they nearly all seem to produce aerial burr roots beneath the graft union, so you may get some additional rooting, certainly on the side of the tree closest to the ground.
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