Which apple varieties are still on the tree throughout November?

[boundtothesoil]

I've just picked the last of my apples today, Winston, Tydeman's Late Orange and Bramley's, not because they are dropping, but because so many are being pecked by blue tits, black birds et al. The birds seem to increase their appetite for apples both on and off the tree as autumn progresses.

I'd like to plant some later varieties that will last on the tree, undamaged, into December, so would be very interested to know:-
1) Which good quality, reliable yielding, eating varieties you leave on the tree throughout November?
2) Which late varieties you find are less prone to bird pecking as autumn turns to winter?
Thanks

[veggiechicken]

I have one tree absolutely covered in bright red apples. From a distance its looks like a holly tree there are so many.
Unfortunately I have no idea what it is. Nice crisp eaters - not very big apples on a huge old tree

[Nicos]

Gosh- we are in an apple area here- and there are loads of apples on the trees.
Even Bramleys.

[orangepippin]

Many varieties will hold apples on the tree into early winter, but in the vast majority of cases I think they will have "gone over" and be unusable except as bird food.

By this time in the season the only varieties that would still be edible would be Granny Smith, Braeburn, Fuji, Sturmer Pippin - i.e. the very late ripening varieties.

Many crab-apples retain their fruit into winter.

[yummersetter]

We have loads still on the trees ( time for the annual Cornish Aromatic debate now). However, you know those 'murmuration of starlings' films they are so fond of on TV wildlife programmes? Any day now they drop by and stay for a few weeks and clear the lot, deafening us and thrilling the dogs as they swirl overhead. Ashmeads Kernel, Cornish Aro, Bramleys, Suntan and Golden Russet are still mainly on the trees. Nothing's birdproof though, that's what nature intended, not decoration for humans.

Quinces are barely ripe and just beginning to fall, they're pretty tough for a bird's beak.

[digon]

All my varieties have now either been picked or dropped except for my 1st year Christmas pippin which still has a dozen or so apples well attached. I've been picking these since the begining of Nov and they are still superbly flavoured with a lovely juicy crunch (like a cross between cox and a good home grown golden delicious)
The question is do I leave the apples, and apples in future years, on the tree or do I pick and store them? Does the frost damage the apples? I've had no problems with birds, yet.

[FB.]

Ashmead's Kernel*, D'Arcy Spice, Edward VII, Norfolk Beefing, Tydeman's Late Orange were still hanging well on the tree until mid-November when a few fallen fruits persuaded me to pick most of them (although a few got missed and continue to hang on the tree).
*Ashmead's Kernel dropped off the tree in late September last year (they were perfectly ripe and good-sized despite the short, cool, dull, damp season), but this year they're still holding on; AK seems to have quite a difference in ripening time from one year to the next, depending on the weather - or, more specifically: some varieties seem to know that a hard winter is coming.

Most late apples are best picked and stored in a cool place such as a shed or garage. I've picked up perfect quality D'Arcy Spice and Tydeman's Late Orange apples in the spring after they've ben sat in the leaf litter, mud, hard frosts and snow all winter.
The late-keepers which were developed before refrigerated-controlled-atmosphere storage came into use seem to tolerate being frozen and sitting in simple storage, but more modern varieties are specially bred for storing in controlled atmosphere and not necessarily as good for storing under natural conditions.

Edward VII will often continue trying to grow and can still be in full leaf at Christmas - with the risk of it not being properly hardened-off. Apples on MM106 and especially M25 rootstock also tend to encourage late-season growth which might be more easily damaged by frost (and therefore more easily killed or the frost-damaged shoots invaded by canker).
Any tree on MM111 rootstock seems to "know" and prepare itself (go dormant) much sooner than the same variety on MM106 or especially M25 rootstock.

I would therefore suggest using M25 rootstock for the late-keepers because it will delay the onset of dormancy and therefore be more likely to keep the fruit on the tree late in the year. Late-keepers on MM111 may ripen (and need picking) somewhat earlier than on M25 and as a result of earlier picking they may come to the end of their shelf-life sooner.
However, I would not choose M25 rootstock for areas prone to harsh winters or short/cool growing seasons; M25 definitely prefers a climate with a long, warm growing season; it is much more vigorous than MM106 in such climates, yet in cooler/duller climates it seems to be about the same vigour as MM106.
MM106 (and M116) may be a better choice than M25 for growing late-keeping apples in cooler areas - assuming that the growing season is long enough for proper ripening.