First Aid for a sapling???

[Nicos]

Anyone know what I need to do ( or if I should just discard the tree?) to a young apple/pear tree ( lost label) which has a partly snapped trunk below the graft point?

I was just checking our small tree nursery where we have planted several saplings ( 5ft high and now in flower) whilst creating a final planting place in our 'field' and noticed that something large- probably a badger or boar has forced it's way between 2 of the saplings.

Unfortunately one was pushed so far sideways that the trunk has partially snapped just below the graft at soil level
It's snapped lengthways for about 2" and the trunk is only about an inch wide.

Is the tree rescueable by bandaging it and sealing it with something?...or will it be forever weak??

Any advice welcome please!

[Kristen]

You could try a splint and a bandage, it might grow back and heal.

Only other thought I have is to get a sucker come up from the rootstock, which should be strong as the root system is more developed than a just-planted tree, and then graft a scion onto it. Plenty of Scion wood available, at the right time of the season, so you can buy whichever varieties take your fancy ... or take a scion off one of the other trees, if they are the variety you want.

[Alison]

I guess you will be helped by it being on the rootstock which I assume is a vigorous variety.


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[fishpond]

"You could try a splint and a bandage, it might grow back and heal"
You have nothing to lose by trying this, at least that is what I would do, and see how it goes as the season progresses.
Graft a new one just in case but I do not think you will need it.

[BertieFox]

Definitely splint it and tie it in tightly where it has broken, perhaps cleaning off the inner surface of the break with a very fine knife or razor blade to make a clean surface.

Effectively what you will be doing is the same as a graft, only from rootstock to rootstock tissue. Treat it in the same way by binding it tightly with plastic tape or film and leave it in place at least until the very end of the season.

When you think about it, the real graft started off as a total 'break' where completely separate tissues were brought together. We never worry about those being 'forever weak' and in the same way your broken stem need not be. After a few years you won't even know there had been a break, rather like a broken arm or leg.

But that DOES mean tying in the broken pieces very tightly and splinting as has been suggested.

[Nicos]

Thanks peeps...that's really reassuring!...phew!

Will certainly give your advice a go.

[boundtothesoil]

I wouldn't bother with a splint, just tightly bound with a long (70-10 cm) strip of polythene, about 2 cm width, staking the tree as well. And I'd leave it taped until this time next year ( unlike a graft) even if it looks to be constructing the trunk later in the summer. I guess that the surfaces to be joined have completely dried out.

[Nicos]

Yes....the dry surfaces were the things which concerned me....a true graft would have 2 freshly cut surfaces and would heal.
I have no idea when the injury took place but certainly within the last week.
And yes....the wound does look dry.

[BertieFox]

Is it not possible to carefully remove a slither from both inner surfaces of the break with a very sharp craft knife or even a razor blade? Or is it inaccessible? If you can expose the cambium layer then you have a much better chance of restoring the trunk. Just binding the dry surfaces will just leave the break in place.

[Jeanied]

I have used strips of tights on one tree that had a split - a botched prune in my case - and sticking plaster on a stem partially snapped by the dog - both worked.

[Nicos]

Bertie...that was a nagging thought for me too!
It's at soil level so I'll scrape away a bit of soil to access it and try shaving off a tiny bit off each one first before binding it.
Going to do it today- so thanks for all the advice

Would wound sealant be a daft idea just on the outside as part of it is in contact with the soil?

[Kristen]

Would wound sealant be a daft idea just on the outside as part of it is in contact with the soil?

I would go with grafting tape (or if you have none then e.g. cling film) simply, in my case, so I could go-again-another-day if my first effort was not good enough.

Wound sealant is going to be a bit "one-shot" I think??