Stimulating lateral branches

[happyhermit]

Hello all, thought i'd update you on my orchard here in Aberdeenshire and ask for some pruning/training advice. Planted the following last winter:

Lord Derby/M25
Tower of Glamis/MM111 (T)
Yorkshire Greening/M25 (T)
Scotch Bridget/MM111 (T)
Green Balsam/M25

These were all planted as 3-4ft maidens. They were planted in 4ft deer cages. My intention is to train them with 3 to 4 scaffolds starting at 4.5ft separated vertically by about 8" and spread evenly around the trunk. I will then cut out the leader. I think this is called a modified central leader form and should give me a strong tree, less inclined to split in my windy location.

I did not head back on planting as they are on vigorous rootstocks and were all shorter than my lowest desired scaffold. All seem to have established well, particularly the ToG, SB and YG which have already put on 16" of growth. The LD was slow to start growing but has put on 6-12" of thick growth now. Unfortuantely the GB came with a damaged tip so had to train a lateral vertically to take over as a leader. It has however produced loads of side shoots but doesn't look like being as much of a beast as the others. The YG is very whippy despite being on M25.

The three vigorous varieties are getting close to 5ft now. I would like to get laterals starting at 6" below this, so I guess next year will be critical. The YG, SB and LD have produced laterals just below the junction with last years growth. Should I expect that again next year or do I need to be more active in promoting the laterals where I want them? The ToG has produced only short lateral stubs and seems more vertically inclined! My RHS book says when dormant to prune out laterals in bottom third, reduce laterals by 2/3 in centre to act as stem builders, and leave top third. Conversely I have seen mention of removing all laterals to stimulate growth further up; nick/notch or even to head the leader. My questions are:

1) Am I likely to get my laterals next year below the junction with this years growth?
2) Should I remove all lower laterals, some laterals, or reduce length by 2/3 or to a couple of buds?
3) Should I consider heading back leaders in the winter (especially ToG) to be sure of laterals? Obviously I will need to spread the laterals to get better crotch angles if i head back.
4) On the LD and ToG there are buds and whorls of leaves up the entire stem. Should I be rubbing these off now, prune them off in the winter or leave them?

Sorry this has got so long, I think I've been reading too much! Any advice would be gratefully received.

Neil

[FB.]

1) Am I likely to get my laterals next year below the junction with this years growth?

Yes, but there's no guarantee - but the same could be said if you prune it because you can't be 100% certain where and how many branches you'll get.

2) Should I remove all lower laterals, some laterals, or reduce length by 2/3 or to a couple of buds?

The RHS advice seems reasonable but do it in winter.

3) Should I consider heading back leaders in the winter (especially ToG) to be sure of laterals? Obviously I will need to spread the laterals to get better crotch angles if i head back.

Yes, unless your experience of that variety suggests otherwise. Some varieties shape up nicely without pruning while others are difficult to form into nice trees no matter what you do with them. Some seem to be worse when pruned than when left alone.

4) On the LD and ToG there are buds and whorls of leaves up the entire stem. Should I be rubbing these off now, prune them off in the winter or leave them?

I'd remove them at some point but I don't think it matters whether it is now or in the winter.

[FB.]

Some pictures of a MM111 tree.

1. Maiden whip.

2. Whip left unpruned; leader continues upwards and several side shoots grow out from the topmost several inches of the previous season's growth.

3. Young tree at the end of its second season having gone dormant and just had its leader removed.

[happyhermit]

Thank you as always for your input FB.

Yes, but there's no guarantee - but the same could be said if you prune it because you can't be 100% certain where and how many branches you'll get.

Any views on notching the leader with a hack saw blade? If I leave well alone and there are insufficient laterals can I head back all of next years growth in winter 2015 to try over?

The RHS advice seems reasonable but do it in winter.

The more I take off the more likely I'll get laterals up top?

Yes, unless your experience of that variety suggests otherwise. Some varieties shape up nicely without pruning while others are difficult to form into nice trees no matter what you do with them. Some seem to be worse when pruned than when left alone.

Very early days I know but I'm getting the impression that the ToG is less keen to put out laterals. On average how far below a heading cut should I expect laterals. 6", 12"?

I'd remove them at some point but I don't think it matters whether it is now or in the winter.

Knife or secateurs?


Thank you

[FB.]

Any views on notching the leader with a hack saw blade? If I leave well alone and there are insufficient laterals can I head back all of next years growth in winter 2015 to try over?

Notching is usually done in late winter. You can pinch-out shoot tips in summer to encourage some additional branching.
I think a hacksaw blade would leave a bit of a ragged wound which. I'd use a knife - a Stanley knife will do.

The more I take off the more likely I'll get laterals up top?

If you cut off less than a quarter of the previous year growth you probably won't get much branching.
If you cut off more than half of the previous season growth you'll often get one very vigorous shoot replacing what you cut off and not much branching or just a few short, weak side shoots.

Very early days I know but I'm getting the impression that the ToG is less keen to put out laterals. On average how far below a heading cut should I expect laterals. 6", 12"?

Usually the top two buds, plus about half of the several buds below these.
If the weather is unusual (mild, dry or freezing) in the days following pruning it sometimes happens that the topmost bud dies or grows poorly.

Knife or secateurs?

Secateurs for virtually all pruning. Knife for nicking, notching and grafting.

[happyhermit]

Thats great, thanks.

Notching is usually done in late winter. You can pinch-out shoot tips in summer to encourage some additional branching.

Any benefit to pinching out leaders now?

Neil

[FB.]

Any benefit to pinching out leaders now?

You'll get some branching but each pinch might only give one side branch. If the trees are growing strongly enough to put on another foot of growth this year then you could consider pinching the tips a few times to get some branching (just pinch off the topmost not-yet-unfolded leaves - if you remove too much you'll shut down their growth and turn them into spur-bound cordons!).

I do it with some of my young trees.

[happyhermit]

OK, point taken! I'll wait for the dormant season.

I think the 3 vigorous trees (SB, ToG, YG) which are currently at 5ft might benefit from some encouragement. Either tipping the leader or notching in the winter. Although I like the idea of letting the tree do its own thing, I do need to get that first scaffold bewteen 4.5-5ft. ToG particularly seems reluctant to put out laterals. Its a pain to have to train in a new leader but it will increase the chance of a correctly placed lateral. Also I think the SB and YG could do with stiffening up. I believe heading achieves this.

I don't think it will be an issue with LD or GB. They are already producing plenty of laterals and I will be spoilt for choice if they carry on like this. Interestingly the leader and laterals on LD are particularly thick. Reminds me a little of a Bramley.

Neil