Fans and espaliers

[pigletwillie]

Is there any reason why top fruit (apples and pears) are trained as espaliers and stone fruit are trained as fans?

[Alison]

Interesting one PW, suppose I've always just taken it as read. Could be something to do with the weight of the fruits, but not sure. Do have a very nice espallier apple tree though!

[SimonCole]

Pulms grow on the spurs formed off 2 year-old branches only. Once the branch is that old, it is removed from near to the base and a new branch grows in it's place, forming a fan. Apples and the like form spurs that can fruit for numerous years, so it is not necessary to remove the branches that they sprout from. Thus the shape remains unchanged.

[rustylady]

Thanks, Simon. I'd often wondered but never thought to ask. What happens with ordinary plum trees. I inherited a butchered Victoria Plum tree when I moved into my rented cottage. First year I had nothing. Last year super crop, and this year is looking good too. What advice for pruning?

[SimonCole]

Get a good structure. Secondary branches will then sprout along this support. Of the secondary branches, the aim is to have 1/2 that are last seasons growth and 1/2 that are new growth. Once last seasons growth has fruited and been harvested, chop the branches down to one bud (growing point) that will sprout next year. This is done in the summer to avoid disease. Water if we have another spring drought like earlier this year.

[muckdiva]

Hoping all you experts may be able to advise..... I bought several apple trees from Aldi this Spring and planted them out in my garden. They seem to be doing really well, but I really wanted to espalier them to make a screen effect. Thing is, as time was getting on, and some of the trees were in bud, I chickened out of giving them the chop after planting as I thought they might not recover, so... my question is, am I too late to make them into espaliers if I do the pruning this autumn/winter - or is there a better time.... or is it too late now. I think the trees are about 2 years oldish?

My next question is, any tips on turning trees with no low branches to form the first layer into an espalier - do I just prune to the first three buds at the right height? That's so scary in fact it's why I didn't do the deed in the first place.

[pigletwillie]

Tis a brave person who does it but yes, cut to just above the 3 buds at the height you want your first layer of branches. Two will form the branches and the third the leader. Next year do the same and each year following until you have the amount of layers that you want.

I did it to two which have come out ok and wimped out on the rest by just cordoning them. However the cordons have more fruit on as there are more trees per metre than espaliered trees.

[muckdiva]

Thanks for the help PW. Is there a best time to do this pruning?

[pigletwillie]

When they are dormant muckdiva.

[SimonCole]

My next question is, any tips on turning trees with no low branches to form the first layer into an espalier - do I just prune to the first three buds at the right height? That's so scary in fact it's why I didn't do the deed in the first place.

Nooooooooooooooooooooooo! There is a better way.
The method used by Geoff Hamilton on the Organic Kitchen Garden series was as follows: Leave the tree intact. During the growing season, remove an inch and a half strip of the outer bark from above the chosen growth point on the stem. The aim is to leave enough bark for nutrients to be carried up the stem to the upper branches, but to trap the hormone responsible for surprising apical dominance from reaching the growth point. This hormone normally travels from the growing tip of the tree, down the outer bark, stopping any other buds from breaking. The cut stops this path. The growth points themselves, up and down the stem, are a little hard to spot, but if you can see a groove left by a leaf from the tree's early years' of growth, then that is a likely place to grow a new branch. You want enough of a growing season to ensue that the bud breaks and growth begins, so now is a good time to start.

I can find no pics on the Internet, but the series has it in it or another grape should know. I think it may be a better method, because the tree is under a little less stress.

[pigletwillie]

I shall try that method on a couple of trees that need training. The "cut off at three buds" methods has worked on the two trees I have operated on so far but I am all for easier methods that are a tad less aggressive.

I presume the bark is taken off all the way round?

Thanks for that Simon.

[SimonCole]

No, if you take the bark off all around, the tree will die. What you want to do is to aim to remove around 1/3 of the circumference. The outer bark is the living bit that provides the water and nutrients to the leaves/roots, thus you don't want to cut part of the plant off. You do need to remove enough though, to ensure that the hormone is suppressed.