Pruning (Bramley?) apple tree? - inc pic

[Stan79]

Hi all,

I'm planning on pruning the apple trees in my garden. The first one to get the treatment is (i think) the Bramley half way down the garden. I've had a read over the past couple of years and think i know what i'm doing but as it's a nice but cold day here i thought i'd take a pic and get some advice this year.

What and how much should i be taking off it now?

Many thanks,

Stan

[Mark Lottie]

It's best not to cut too much at once. Some books says not to cut more than 15-20% in a year in case you kill it.

I'd cut the following in this order

-Branches that are diseased
-Branches that cross
-Those upward suckers at the top
-Thin out the spurs. They say leave double the size of an apple for each spur. So if you have 3 inch apples, leave 6 inches between spurs. Some people disagree though and say you should leave this until the fruit forms and then remove fruit, meaning you maximise the amount of fruit you get rather than risk cutting off good spurs and leaving dud spurs

There are people with far more expertise on here though

[Alison]

Aren't bramleys tip bearing?

[FB.]

Why do you want to prune it?
What are you trying to achieve by pruning?

[Mark Lottie]

good point Alison. They are partial tip bearers so form fruit on tips and spurs.

some advice says you can prune partial tip bearers the same as spur bearers and some advice say to only prune downward branches and the very high tips

I would defer to any fruit expert on here really. The tree doesnt look in bad shape to be honest, maybe it doesnt need a prune? Is it weed free around the bottom? You could maybe mulch it with a woven cloth with manure/compost on top to give it a feed

[Stan79]

Why do you want to prune it?
What are you trying to achieve by pruning?

Trying to maintain shape and keep it cropping well. Your post suggests i maybe don't need to?

[FB.]

The tree shape isn't bad and I think pruning is more likely to make things worse than better.

Although some more pictures from different directions would be helpful, I'm fairly sure that if it was my tree I would:

1. Remove any dead shoots (I can't see many).

2. Remove any diseased shoots (I can't see many).

3. Completely remove (at their point of origin) about one-third of the thin, upright, unbranched shoots.
Choose shoots for removal using the following priorities as a general guide (not a hard and fast rule!):
a. crowded shoots
b. shoots which aren't well-placed for the future
c. shoots which are strongest
d. shoots which are closest to upright

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Regarding point 3, if it was my tree I would have 'cordon-pruned' (cut back to about three buds) many of those upright shoots in summer (late July), in an attempt to control tree vigour and convert the shoots into additional fruiting spurs. Only newly-grown shoots should be pruned while the tree has leaves, otherwise the tree may be killed.

[Stan79]

Fantastic. Thank you very much!

As you say, i think 1 and 2 are ok.

I will progress with 3 as you have directed.