Pruning my young apple and pear trees - advice for a newcomer please

[Russel Sprout]

Hi all

We planted some young apple and pear trees last year and we are fruit tree first timers. We are therefore unsure as to when and how to prune them, or even whether they need pruning at all... So it's over to the experts on the forum for some advice please. I've taken a photo of each one, but please let me know if you need any more photos or information.

Obelisk Pear Tree (excuse the ladder)



Rosemary Russet Apple Tree



Packham's Triumph Pear Tree (excuse the dog)



Discovery Apple Tree




Any advice would be hugely appreciated.

Many thanks

Max

[Lardman]

Can't comment on the pears but there's a bit of blind wood on the discovery but you have to be careful how you prune as it's a partial tip bearer. Id probably leave it and take another look in the summer. The Rosemary russet, I can't see if there's a branch behind the stake or not? Id cut the 3 main branches back about 1/3 to an outward facing bud, it does look like they have been cut back to around there before but there's been very little growth. Id also remove the lower left weak growing branch.

I'd kicking myself for forgetting one of those on last years tree order.

[Guest]

I wouldn't worry about pruning too much I would leave them for another year, but that is just me. Weed around the bottom, give them a sprinkle of fish,blood,bone and keep them weed free.

[Russel Sprout]

Hi again

Upon further reading I see that for apple and pear trees some people recommend open vase/goblet forms while others (especially in America) recommend central leader.

What do people around here think is best and why?

Cheers

[GBax]

Max it depends on what space you have - the open goblet type requires far more horizontal space.

They also have a very different aesthetic look - personally i prefer the central leader format

[GBax]

By way of comment on the trees you have pictured:

The top pear looks quite crowded personally I would look at the tree, visualise the shape you want and tidy it up a bit.

I would also clear all the weeds from around the trees and give them a good mulch of manure (not touching the trunk).

[Guest]

Ok here is another way to look at it. How do you wish to harvest your fruit?

A. Standing on the ground within easy reach.
B. On a ladder.
C. With a telescopic pole picker
D. Precariously balanced on a ladder with a telescopic pole picker (this is a joke, please no one actually do this)

There are good and bad for both forms but it is what suits you better at the end of the day.

[Russel Sprout]

Please don't worry, ladders are my forte. I learnt from the best:

[Jay-ell]

I'm new to fruit pruning as well but I would look to pruning it back now to start bring it to the shape you want and control the height and growth.

If I remember correctly summer pruning removes vigor and controls shape, winter pruning will encourage more vigorous regrowth. Mixing the two helps to define shape and size.

By the way, don't follow my advice on fruit trees. My orchard is laid out on a square foot gardening idea

[Russel Sprout]

Hi all

I've been reading some more about this and seeking further advice. I've been told that because my trees were bought as "bush" and are now three years old, re-training as central leader would be a bad idea. Would folks here agree?

Also, so that I can get it straight in my head for the future, regarding tree forms:

1. Do "bush", "open vase", and "goblet" all refer to the same form?

2. Likewise, does "central leader" and "spindle bush" refer to the same form?

3. Does rootstock determine what forms are best for a tree? So even as a one year maiden, would something on an M26 still suit bush better than central leader on account of that rootstock?

Any advice would be most appreciated.

Cheers

[fishpond]

1) Yes
2) Yes
3) The rootstock controls the height of a tree.
The shape of a tree, be it bush, pyramid, fan, espalier etc, is decided by the grower in the trees formative years (3 or 4), thereafter it is just a case of dead, diseased, rubbing, crossing, broken etc
At least that's what I understand.
Hope This helps.
Doesn't help when different books give differing advice, but then again -- no 2 trees are the same.

[Jay-ell]

However certain forms are better on certain rootstock - dwarfing rootstock is often recommended for step over trees but wouldn't be as good for four tiered espaliers which would need a more vigorous root.

[Russel Sprout]

Thanks for the comments and advice. I've asked on some other forums, and been reading and watching videos. There's plenty to think about! It's quite a tricky topic for a newcomer as people seem to approach it in such vastly different ways, both in terms of the finer details and the major ones such as whether to even prune or not!

[Jay22]

I haven't pruned my trees at all since I bought them a few years ago, my mother in law on the other hand is quite severe with hers and there is no rhyme nor reason to what she does, they come back every year bearing fruit (mostly apple) although they do look a bit odd!