Pruning grapes

[Anton]

Hullo Fellow Gardeners,
My daughter-in-law pruned her vines in her greenhouse earlier this year and she now sees that clusters of tiny grapes have grown as kind of "suckers" on the main parts of the vine that were remaining. She wonders if these new tiny clusters should be removed?

Anton

[roitelet]

Any chance of pictures?

[Anton]

Thanks for your answer. I will write to ask her to send some.

Anton

[Baldy]

My vine is doing well this year - lots of little grapelet bunches possibly on the spurs... Cane & Spur Pruning of Grapevines | Home Guides | SF Gate - to be honest I can never get my hed around what you are supposed to do with grape vines - seem to have a mental block -

So - I'm interested in the answer to Anton's question but if anyone could also give me the 'simplest' way of training growing an outdoor vine I'd appreciate that too.. (sorry for hijacking your post Anton )

[Deltawhiskey]

Hi Anton & Baldy. The clusters of 'grapes' are actually flower buds. They should be removed because they are actually flower buds and will not produce anything this year. The pruning of grapevines does depend on the variety because some can be spur pruned while some must be grown as cane replacement. With spur pruning the vine is grown as a single rod to match the interior of a greenhouse or pagoda or allowed to grow upright before being bent and trained horizontally to a trellis. In the spring each node will produce a shoot which will normally have grape flowers. A mature (6 year old) vine can be allowed to have two bunches per shoot. Immature vines (3 year old) three or four bunches per vine and only one per shoot. Ther will be other shoots which should be pinched out after three or four leaves. Vines should only be pruned in winter. The shoots that bore fruit should be cut right back and the other shoots that grew should be reduced to one and cut back to three buds. What you are looking for is a shoot that grew last year with three buds. When the buds grow on each cut back shoot in the spring keep only one. Make the choice after the flower bunches have emerged. The process is repeated each year.
With cane replacement one cane is grown and in winter this cane is pruned back to ripe wood, green on the inside and brown on the outside. The cane is bent down into a horizontal position at about 500 mm after pruning back and tied to a trellis. The grapes will be born on the shoots emerging from buds along the cane. The same principle applies regarding the amount of fruit both young and mature vines are allowed to produce. The vine after pruning in the winter should be at least as thick as a pencil. One shoot nearest the bend should be selected and allowed to grow unchecked until the end of the year. Any side shoots should be pinched out after one leaf. This leaf feeds the bud at its base which will produce grapes next year. In winter the cane which bore grapes is cut back to the cane which was left to grow and this can is then cut back to ripe wood and bent down for next years crop. This procedure is repeated each year. When bending down the bends must be made between one or two nodes. If canes are bent on the node they will break. This is known as the Guyot cane replacement method.
This is a very simplified (I hope) explanation and there is plenty of information on the internet which may explained it better.

David

[Jungle Jane]

Hi Anton & Baldy. The clusters of 'grapes' are actually flower buds. They should be removed because they are actually flower buds and will not produce anything this year. The pruning of grapevines does depend on the variety because some can be spur pruned while some must be grown as cane replacement. With spur pruning the vine is grown as a single rod to match the interior of a greenhouse or pagoda or allowed to grow upright before being bent and trained horizontally to a trellis. In the spring each node will produce a shoot which will normally have grape flowers. A mature (6 year old) vine can be allowed to have two bunches per shoot. Immature vines (3 year old) three or four bunches per vine and only one per shoot. Ther will be other shoots which should be pinched out after three or four leaves. Vines should only be pruned in winter. The shoots that bore fruit should be cut right back and the other shoots that grew should be reduced to one and cut back to three buds. What you are looking for is a shoot that grew last year with three buds. When the buds grow on each cut back shoot in the spring keep only one. Make the choice after the flower bunches have emerged. The process is repeated each year.
With cane replacement one cane is grown and in winter this cane is pruned back to ripe wood, green on the inside and brown on the outside. The cane is bent down into a horizontal position at about 500 mm after pruning back and tied to a trellis. The grapes will be born on the shoots emerging from buds along the cane. The same principle applies regarding the amount of fruit both young and mature vines are allowed to produce. The vine after pruning in the winter should be at least as thick as a pencil. One shoot nearest the bend should be selected and allowed to grow unchecked until the end of the year. Any side shoots should be pinched out after one leaf. This leaf feeds the bud at its base which will produce grapes next year. In winter the cane which bore grapes is cut back to the cane which was left to grow and this can is then cut back to ripe wood and bent down for next years crop. This procedure is repeated each year. When bending down the bends must be made between one or two nodes. If canes are bent on the node they will break. This is known as the Guyot cane replacement method.
This is a very simplified (I hope) explanation and there is plenty of information on the internet which may explained it better.

David

How do you know the grape clusters are flower buds? They sound like grapes? If I'd removed mine I'd have no grapes,I thin the bunches & then thin the grapes on the bunches.

[Zelenina]

I'm sure Deltawhiskey is giving us very good advice, but I get part way through a description like that and my eyes start glazing over because it all seems so complicated. Diagrams might suit my brain better.

But I'm only a very casual grower of three inherited grape vines, so the way I grow them is much simpler than that. I let them do more or less what they want, and cut off the bits that get in my way or are trying to strangle other plants.

I generally don't cut them at all until I can see the little bunches forming, and I only cut parts without bunches. And they usually have plenty of grapes if the birds don't get them while I'm waiting for them to ripen.

[Thelma Sanders]

but if anyone could also give me the 'simplest' way of training growing an outdoor vine I'd appreciate that too.. (sorry for hijacking your post Anton )

Have a look here, starting just before the pictures half way down the page

https://urbanwinegrower.wordpress.co...e-fourth-year/

[Deltawhiskey]

How do you know the grape clusters are flower buds? They sound like grapes? If I'd removed mine I'd have no grapes,I thin the bunches & then thin the grapes on the bunches.

Hi Jane,
In the northern hemisphere vines will produce flower buds which look like tiny bunches of grapes in May or June. From that point it will take about four months for flowering and ripening. If a vine is only producing buds in August it follows that they will not ripen. I think what has happened is that Anton's daughter in law pruned late resulting in late flowering. My own vines are putting out side shoots some of which have flower buds.

David

[Deltawhiskey]

I'm sure Deltawhiskey is giving us very good advice, but I get part way through a description like that and my eyes start glazing over because it all seems so complicated. Diagrams might suit my brain better.

But I'm only a very casual grower of three inherited grape vines, so the way I grow them is much simpler than that. I let them do more or less what they want, and cut off the bits that get in my way or are trying to strangle other plants.

I generally don't cut them at all until I can see the little bunches forming, and I only cut parts without bunches. And they usually have plenty of grapes if the birds don't get them while I'm waiting for them to ripen.

Hi Zelenina,
You are absolutely right, I also think in pictures and usually loose the will to live with long explanations. However there are plenty of diagrams on line. You are also correct about simpler ways of growing. In some places they just grow them up trees commercially! The two methods I described are the most efficient, productive and most used methods of grape production.

David

[Scarlet]

I think what has happened is that Anton's daughter in law pruned late resulting in late flowering. My own vines are putting out side shoots some of which have flower buds.

I always prune in winter and then hack back all summer as they grow huge - but I've never had more flowers start in August, though the key here really is when she did the initial "winter" prune especiall as this one is growing under glass.
We really need some photos......

[Deltawhiskey]

I always prune in winter and then hack back all summer as they grow huge - but I've never had more flowers start in August, though the key here really is when she did the initial "winter" prune especiall as this one is growing under glass.
We really need some photos......

Hi Scarlet,

My vines are in their first year and are only putting out random flower buds out of time because I have not allowed them to keep their first batch of flowers. Like all growing things there is a prerogative to reproduce. I agree, photos would be very helpful.

David

[Jungle Jane]

Hi Jane,
In the northern hemisphere vines will produce flower buds which look like tiny bunches of grapes in May or June. From that point it will take about four months for flowering and ripening. If a vine is only producing buds in August it follows that they will not ripen. I think what has happened is that Anton's daughter in law pruned late resulting in late flowering. My own vines are putting out side shoots some of which have flower buds.

David

The pruning was done earlier in the year,I was thinking the grapes have only just been spotted,don't cut grapes off if they're grapes? A photo or more information would help