advice on fence posts and bitumen paint please

[Emmyleigh]

Hi, I've just taken on my very first allotment. It's on a completely new site, and I'm trying to sort out a fence around my patch (there's rabbits in the next field). I have stakes and chickenwire to use, and trying to work out what to use on the bottom of the stakes to prevent them rotting.

My husband has some bitumen paint for his shed at home, I have ordinary shed paint for mine up there and was intending to use it on the posts as well. What we want to know is: would there be any problem treating the bottom of the stakes with the bitumen paint? Or are there any better alternatives? One place told me that scorching the wood to seal it is an option, but not sure what's best - I don't want rotted fence posts, but nor do I want to poison my plot with leaching chemicals.

Please help!

[WendyC]

If the fence posts are pressure treated they should be good for a number of years. Or you could use Metposts - expensive option I should think. Sorry non idea about bitumen paint.

[Potstubsdustbins]

Hi Emmy and welcome.

I am by no means an organic gardener I use chemical fertilisers etc. But bitumen is not something I would use anywhere near my veggie's. Like creosote (now banned) it is a by product from the petrochemical industry.

It is certainly poisonous to aquatic life and I would not find it an acceptable risk.

[buddy of maidstone]

If they are chestnut stakes they will last a good few years without any treatment at all,pine pressure treated are not as good as they used to be as treatment has been changed


Sent from my iPhone using Grow Your Own Forum

[Jonnyt]

You need class 4 treated timber if you want it to last. The most usual class 2 is rated for occasional wetting not being buried in earth


Sent from my iPhone using Grow Your Own Forum

[Two_Sheds]

what to use on the bottom of the stakes to prevent them rotting.

I like Metposts, they are expensive but you can take them with you if you give up the lotty, or they'd probably have a good resale value

[wbmkk]

Just a thought ..

If, instead of hammering in fence posts directly into the ground (if indeed that was your plan) make small neat holes and concrete the posts into position. When the concrete sets and goes dry, it will protect the bottom of the posts. You could even put the post inside some old PVC pipe and simply fit ther concrete in the gap, between post and tube.

[jimslad]

I could never afford metposts , so they would be a no , no for me , I've used bit paint in the past and lived to tell the tale .

[Bill HH]

Not sure how much they cost compared to metal posts but on the farm we used oak posts, they lasted years, in fact the tops just got harder and harder., the part in the ground also lasted well, its the bit at ground level that eventually rots, so we used to creosote them at ground level every couple of years. When they finally failed after 15 to 20 years we used to knock a short stake ( one that had rotted at ground level, sharpened) down the side of the failing one and nail them together. My dad called these godfathers. The oak by then was so hard you couldn't nail it without drilling a hole first.

[Emmyleigh]

Thanks for all the advice - I've told him to keep his bitumen paint for his shed and we've tried the scorching the bottom method, and painting the top with shed/fence stuff. I'll tell you in a few years whether it's worked! Didn't want to do anything too permanent or expensive at this stage, especially the expensive bit

[littleplot]

Wrap a heavy bin liner round the bottom to just above ground level. Adds years onto the posts but be responsible and if u leave ur plot/ garden take out the posts and the non bio bags.


Sent from my iPhone using Grow Your Own Forum

[cheapskate chaz]

Depending on how long your fence is going to be, metal `rebar` would be a lasting solution, 20/25mm by 6`lengths, easy to knock in too! If you have rabbit problems, can you fit around 8"/12" of chicken wire under the turf on the rabbit side of the fence, will help deter the darlings, or go for the `sudden lead poisening`shotgun method, ( he says with tongue in cheek )
Rebar ( re-inforcing bar rods ) are used in the construction of concrete foundations etc.and don`t need painting.

[Potstubsdustbins]

Chaz, never use a 12 bore with tongue in cheek, you'll end up biting the tip off.