replacing a tool handle

[bikermike]

when I inherited my shed with the plot, I got (inter alia) a hand-pushed tiller thing.

I finally gave it a use yesterday and snapped the handle (get me and my strength eh?)

It's the same sort of arrangement as a rake (ie a conical tube formed out of sheet metal on the top of the tool head, with a single rivet/nail holding it in).

Is it as simple as levering the nail out, and replacing?

Any thoughts?

[nickdub]

I make a fair few of the handles for my tools. Basically what you say is correct.

A few extra points which may be relevant :-

1) get the best quality wood you can find - cheap handles don't last
2) make sure you get a good fit on the pointed end (otherwise things will go wobbly)
3) dry the pointed end as best you can - blowtorch is good
4) put some preservative on the bit with is going to be inside the metal - I use bitumen, but its not everyone's cup of tea
5) use a screw not a nail to secure the head - easier to take off if you need to make further adjustments
6) give the handle a coat of varnish and leave for a few days to dry.

Happy gardening :-)

[bikermike]

Thanks Nick

I was wondering about going one further and replacing the nail with a bolt (and locknut)...

Do the handles generally come un-coned? (and I have to make the cone)

[nickdub]

Thanks Nick

I was wondering about going one further and replacing the nail with a bolt (and locknut)...

Do the handles generally come un-coned? (and I have to make the cone)

You're very welcome :-)

"I was wondering about going one further and replacing the nail with a bolt (and locknut)..."
- I wouldn't recommend it usually - with wooden handles the bit that goes in to the head is usually the weak point, not the screw - the extra wood use lose with a bolt in a thin handle could be significant in making the handle weaker.

"Do the handles generally come un-coned?"
I've seen both ways - its not generally an advantage if they have a point, because almost invariably the angle its cut at is not the one you want. Quickest way to shape the end is with a belt sander - failing that a surform will get it near enough - otherwise you can fall back on a sharp knife and a lot of whittling.

BTW check the grain of the wood if there is a choice - close together and straight is best, and of course free from knots.

[ESBkevin]

I'd agree with nickdub except one thing.

Don't varnish the handles, if it has varnish take it of and rub in some boiled linseed oil. It will harden over a few days to a dull luster, but will be better for the wood and give you a better grip in the hand. It can make a lot of difference to the effort reguired to manipulate some tools like axes and hoes.