Mattock = a truly brilliant bit of kit!
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To use a rotervater or not *Please advise*
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Originally posted by Helgalush View PostNigel, how about if you clear the surface stuff now, then lay cardboard down over it, weighed down with heavy objects (someone on here recently advised me to do this - Zazen I think it was), and just concentrate on making one small plot weed-free for now so that you can get some stuff in now and giving you the motivation to keep going. Then in early spring you can gradually start work on the next bit and the next bit and then the next bit. Before long you will have several beds in action and more to work with. I kind of see getting an allotment (she says not having started work on one at all) as a long term investment, but there's no reason why you cant start small and work upwardsLast edited by PAULW; 14-09-2011, 12:34 PM.
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Originally posted by PAULW View PostI cannot understand why anyone would recommend covering the plot and leaving it till the spring you have five and a half months of late summer,autumn and winter to prepare the ground most of this time there will be no weed growth and the weeds that do grow will die and can be turned in when preparing the ground for sowing/planting out. By the way I find a fork the best thing to dig with rather than a spade.Last edited by Helgalush; 14-09-2011, 08:24 PM.
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Wel, the way to look at it is, do you want to do a lot of work in one year and not so much in subsequent years, or do you want to do a little the first year and increasing amounts the years following?
You should dig out bramble roots because they will re-sprout. Nettle roots also should be dug out and and definitely bindweed, couch grass and dandelion, in any area you want to grow in, otherwise they'll keep re-sprouting.
Someone here had a couch grass infested allotment so they dug a pit, not sure if it was lined or not, then threw all the diggings in there, covered it over, left it for a year and hey presto, they had a not-so-instant bed full of compost.
I do a similar thing with my weeds. They either go in a big pot full of water to drown, thus giving me a liquid fertiliser for plants, or into a plastic bin to rot giving me extra compost. Nettles can be drowned for a nitrogen rich liquid feed for cabbages etc.
It will be hard work to start with, but as long as you know that and accept it to start with, the rest isn't so bad. Plus, think of the extra body toning you'll be doing with all that excercise
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Originally posted by Helgalush View PostI think perhaps I will keep schtum until I'm more experienced myself. Just trying to be helpful but obviously backfired on this occasion.It is sound advice, just that you were given it at the middle of summer, he has all winter to work on his plot, so slightly different, but basically, sound advice so keep giving it, just bear in mind the time of year is all
Last edited by taff; 14-09-2011, 01:06 PM.
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Originally posted by taff View Postdon't be silly. I gibe people advice all the time and I'm wrong too sometimesIt is sound advice, just that you were given it at the middle of summer, he has all winter to work on his plot, so slightly different, but basically, sound advice so keep giving it, just bear in mind the time of year is all
I also get a bit of a foggy head at times, so do make mistakes with my thought process. Apologies for detracting from the topic here and getting it a little wrong.
I'm enjoying reading everyone's replies. Had no idea what a mattock was!
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Using a rotovator will save you a lot of time and hard work applying a glyphosate based weedkiller a week or 2 before hand then rotovating should help with the weed problem as this kills the whole plant on the brambles you just have to follow the instructions given on the weedkiller to apply the right dose to kill them off.
i recently done this a few weeks ago in my back garden then grass seeded the lot i recommend the barreto rotovator has decent power and had no probem ripping out old privet hedge roots while turning the soil most hire places should have one.
Barreto 13 hp roto tiller in action! - YouTube
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Originally posted by ixithepatriot View Postapplying a glyphosate based weedkiller a week or 2 before hand then rotovating should help with the weed problem as this kills the whole plant
Glypho also needs to be applied when the plant is full of growth. I hear of people strimming their weeds to the ground and then applying glypho: completely pointless
* annual weeds will die fairly quickly, but things like bramble, ivy etc will take weeks and possibly several applicationsLast edited by Two_Sheds; 15-09-2011, 08:04 AM.All gardeners know better than other gardeners." -- Chinese Proverb.
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Originally posted by Two_Sheds View PostYou need to leave the plants a lot longer than that* for them to die: the poison needs to get through the plant's system to the roots, to kill it all. If you chop up (rotovate) perennial weeds before they're dead, they will regrow
Glypho also needs to be applied when the plant is full of growth. I hear of people strimming their weeds to the ground and then applying glypho: completely pointless
* annual weeds will die fairly quickly, but things like bramble, ivy etc will take weeks and possibly several applications
strimming weeds is not pointless in very overgrown areas bigger weeds will act as umbrellas to weeds underneath so strimming or cutting before hand can help overcome this and through experience would say that it doesnt have any lesser effect as this is common practice at my work in areas we weedkill
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I'm sure it works for you Ixi
... but our contracted works chap glyphoed the couch grass & horsetail, then immediately laid membrane and 2" bark chippings over the top. It's all coming back up throughAll gardeners know better than other gardeners." -- Chinese Proverb.
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Originally posted by PAULW View PostI cannot understand why anyone would recommend covering the plot and leaving it till the spring you have five and a half months of late summer,autumn and winter to prepare the ground most of this time there will be no weed growth and the weeds that do grow will die and can be turned in when preparing the ground for sowing/planting out. By the way I find a fork the best thing to dig with rather than a spade.
HTHLast edited by zazen999; 15-09-2011, 09:04 PM.
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Originally posted by Two_Sheds View PostI'm sure it works for you Ixi
... but our contracted works chap glyphoed the couch grass & horsetail, then immediately laid membrane and 2" bark chippings over the top. It's all coming back up through
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Originally posted by zazen999 View PostYummy. Sounds just the sort of thing that fruit and veg appreciate getting their roots into.
Or not.
no need for the scaremongering post
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