Soil / Compost questions

[SaraJH]

Hi all,

Right, I now have my raised beds and they have been filled with premium grade topsoil. What else do I need to add to them? Would a standard MPC be okay?

Are all MPCs generally the same?

Also, I have lots of containers/ bags/ buckets that I'm going to grow potatoes and carrots in, what should I fill these with?

Can I use the same MPC for all fruit and veg or are some types a bit fussy?

Sorry for the silly questions but I am a complete novice!

[Bigmallly]

In my mind, there are 3 types of compost maybe 4 if you count your own made:
1) Seed compost - very little nutritional value as seeds have there own food storage.
2) MPC - Multi Purpose Compost varies in quality but basically do the same job, has approx 6 weeks worth of feed in it so great for potting on seedling & plants. Can be used for most plants with the exception of Acid loving Plants, for these you need:
3) Ericaceous Compost - Used for Acid loving plants, i.e Blueberries, Rhododendron, Azaleas, Camellias, Heathers.

If you get a few moments, have a browse through the thread below:

http://www.growfruitandveg.co.uk/gra...com_83749.html

[veggiechicken]

If your beds have been filled with premium topsoil you shouldn't need to add MPC (in my view) but you may want to add some fertiliser to it, which one depends on what you are growing.
You can use MPC for filling containers.

[Neilbaldwyn]

If you have homemade compost I'd opt for that, or a little of your own soil, to improve the microbial balance of the top soil, bought topsoil along with composts are often produced in a way that reduces the life needed in the soil.

[Paulieb]

^^ All good info there.

Every year I buy new compost to grow spuds in tubs/buckets. Add a bit of fertiliser (my choice is vitax Q4) and you won't go wrong. 1 spud to a 30ltr bucket will give a good yield of large tubers.

Once the spuds come out carrot seeds go in as they like soil on the poor side. But they need to follow 1sts or 2nds really and be in by June for decent carrots by October.

When the carrots are finished the composts gets tipped onto the veg beds which improves the soil (no need to dig in as the worms will do that for you).

Topsoil should be fine with some chicken manure pellets sprinkled over this year depending on what you're growing.

[SaraJH]

Thanks all, some great advice. Ok, I shall fertilise my beds according to what I intend to grow and will recycle my spuds compost for carrots.

[Kirk]

I tend to add MPC to simply keep the structure fairly easy to dig over, would suggest that you consider a bag or so of fine aggregate. From something I seem to recall stuff like a fine aggregate tends to stabilise the soil - apologies cannot recall the exact description as it was something I heard about 15-20 years back, maybe more. Think to do with Heligon ?

Another reason I add MPC is that I sometimes end up with 5 bags and use 3. Most recently - 2 days back I added some seedling compost to an area as it was about the worst stuff I have ever bought and decided it had to go. So the majority of the bag was spread over the raised bed.

Another thing to consider is manure to dig in for organics.

[ESBkevin]

The value of compost is often overlooked, it provides a source of nutrients, but more importantly is how it does that. As it breaks down it allows the essential fungus (mycorrhizia) to develop and spread through the soil. This is what attaches to the root systems and gives extended reach for your plants as well as producing a symbiotic relationship exchanging the rare nutrients for sun produced sugar from the plant leaves.
There are 'professional' growers and farmers who use almost sterile soil and add just the fertilisers a crop might need whilst spraying to kill everything but the crop, but modern thinking has suggested the 'no dig' heavy mulch idea gives a better and ultimately cheaper and tastier crop. The jury is still out on the taste aspect (make up your own mind) but healthy crops without chemicals starts with a rich compost and regular mulch.
Some councils provide 'soil improver' each spring, this is the composted green waste they collect through the year and use for their own parks and borders etc. They then sell or even give away the excess. Well rotted farmyard manure is another favourite, part rotted wood chips, rotted autumn leaves, cardboard all make good mulch placed on the surface which the worms will pull down and cultivate for you.
If it's not too late to dig out the beds, if you have a source of rotted wood (from local hedgerows, woods etc). Bury this deep down and place the soil back on top. This is a simple form of Hugelkultur where the breakdown of the timber provides nutrients over many years and acts like a sponge to regulate watering needs in times of drought. Along with mulching it can allow crops to survive all summer without you having to water!
In summary you can almost never have too much compost for most crops. a little course sand or fine aggregate as suggested above further assists drainage and aeration. Have an internet search on mycorrhizia, no dig gardening, mulch, and Hugelkutur. Hours of fun reading and you're in the ideal position to decide how you want to proceed.