Introducing goslings to chooks!!- advice please!

[Nicos]

OK- so we hope to buy 3-4 goslings tomorrow.
Do I isolate them and worm etc before mixing with my chooks ( just been wormed)
or do I add them in and stand back and see if they are going to bring in any unwanted visitors with them?
I'll check under their winds and tails as with chooks- but anything else I should check for???

My chooks free range behind an electric fence and sleep in a pigsty which I close off at night.
Are the goslings going to choose to go inside and sleep on the floor- or are they going to want to sleep outside?? (I have a small inverted V shelter with no floor)
What is the youngest age that I should really be getting them if they are to be out during the day and MAYBE ( their choice) out at night???

Really not quite sure what to expect. Am I worryinmg too much - or should I just bung them into the run and let them fit in with the daily chook routine?
...or...should I lock them inside the pigstyfor the first day and night???

HELP!!!!!

[Bramble-Poultry]

goose = McFox take away. keep them locked up at night. a fox will travel miles to get to sleeping or sitting goose. as for mixing them, never done. i'll ask my sister and get back to you in a bit

[Glutton4...]

I keep my Geese separate from the Chooks - they roam where they want all day, and come back in the evening to go to bed in their shed. They like to go to bed sooner than the Chooks, and if I'm late going to shut them they disappear down the lane and sleep on the pond!

Hilary is probably the best person for advice, I think she's kept both.

[its hilly]

My geese were young adults when I got them. I gave them sleeping quarters in the barn next to the chooks but not mixed (if you follow that) But they are fed and let in and out at the same time. Now they have their own wooden house. While the chooks put themselves in regardless, the geese will come up but if I'm later than normal they begger off again. Only takes a yell to fetch them though. TBH I just let them out with the chooks from the word go, at first the chooks would mob their food and chase them off, and I had to feed the geese first. Now the geese stand their ground. But I still feed them seperately, not en masse. Sid the gander will dive in and separate the cockerals when they fight, other than that they normally ignore each other pretty much.
Hilary gave me some advice when I first got them, and it was just what I needed (thanks again Hilary)

[RichmondHens]

I would certainly worm them before mixing with your chickens. As they don't perch a walk in shed is needed for housing. I'm sure though they could roam around with your chickens during the day. Everyone I know who has geese keeps them in a separate shed overnight, but some let them roam with all the livestock during the day, and some keep them separated. I guess you can choose what will work best for you.

Are these going to be pets, or dinner?

[Nicos]

Hmmm...well- we set off all a-joy to the Market, only to find that the 3 bird seller were the only stalls not there!!!

It's a Bank Holiday here- and 95% of the stall holders were there!..How typical is that??

So will go to another Market on Saturday.
At least it gives me a few more days to sort things out!
We're looking for 6-8 week olds so they can go off and graze without needing lots of feeding up.
Is this a mistake- should we be going for 6 week olds - or even younger?? ( there were 2 week olds for sale last week but I'm sure they'd need special food and a mom to cuddle next too?)

RH-..several dinners I'm hoping!

I realise there are several varieties to choose from- last week were Toulouse and Norman-and there are always a few to select from.
Anyone recommend a specific variety for meat- with a reasonable attitude???

We've decided on 3 of the same breed- and if the breeder can check, 2 gals and a boy.

Can anyone foresee any probs with 3 geese on the floor of the pigsty...with 14 bantams chooks on perches ( apart from gettng occasionally pooped on??)
Should I leave shavings where they'll sleep - it's a concrete floor, and I'm thinking of potential probs with their webbed feet.

I did ask a neighbour who said any age, and just bung them in etc etc.....but somehow I'm sort of wary of following her advice this time ( ...yup- tis that neighbour!!)

More advice pleasepeeps- it's really helpful!

[OverWyreGrower]

Although not geese, my ducks (Khaki Campbells and Runners) sleep in the same shed as my hens...

Ducks have cosy straw in the bottom, and hens have a seperate entrance and raised perches etc from the ducks.

At the moment, my ducks are staying outside overnight (in a run) however, I'd be inclined to say at 6 weeks old, you should be rounding the geese up and locking them in sleeping quarters at night.

[Hilary B]

Adult geese, if there is a gander, will probably see off the average fox when 'up and about'. I never had noticeable fox problem anywhere I kept geese, so that is one thing I can't comment on. I would certainly not let young geese wander around vulnerable to foxy attention.
If you want a trio to hopefully breed dinner next year, they don't actually need to be all the same breed. A gander who is not the same breed as the geese ensures not accidentally in-breeding them. If you get 2 pairs, that gives you the less good gander for Christmas Dinner!
I can't see any reason they wouldn't be OK in the same house as the chooks. Remember that from 'teenage' to approaching adulthood their best food is grass, supplemented by just enough corn to keep them hand-tame. Geese being fattened need lots of good food, and breeders in early season benefit from layer's pellets (not least because she may start laying before there is much food value in the grass).
When I got my first geese, the main reason was as 'garden guards', because I kept white goats, and there were stories around (probably mythical, but I wasn't risking it) of white goats vanishing overnight in the area.

[Nicos]

I am just planning on fattening these up specifically for the freezer this winter!
Then start again with newbies next Spring, so I'll never be overwintering adult geese.

Yikes- I hadn't thought about the gals starting to lay before they are culled...would I be better off with 3 lads then?( If I actually get a choice???)

We have loads of lush clovered grass for them to pig out on- but I do like the idea of a handful of layers pellets to help keep them tame.
For obvious reasons I don't want to get too friendly with them- but I don't want them attacking me either!!!

Well that's the original plan...no doubt it'll evolve over the next few months!

[Hilary B]

I am just planning on fattening these up specifically for the freezer this winter!
Then start again with newbies next Spring, so I'll never be overwintering adult geese.

Yikes- I hadn't thought about the gals starting to lay before they are culled...would I be better off with 3 lads then?( If I actually get a choice???)

We have loads of lush clovered grass for them to pig out on- but I do like the idea of a handful of layers pellets to help keep them tame.
For obvious reasons I don't want to get too friendly with them- but I don't want them attacking me either!!!

Well that's the original plan...no doubt it'll evolve over the next few months!

If they are going in the freezer by Christmas, no risk of them laying (usually starts in Feb), but I think the boys grow a tiny bit faster. I simply woudn't bother about gender mix unless planning to keep them to breed, just get some nice healthy looking goslings, and keep them under close control until they know who feeds them, then let them out on grass (with electric fence if possible) and feed enough to keep them tame until a couple of weeks before you want to bump them off. The great joy of rearing geese is that for most of the growing season, grass will provide all they need.

If they get bolshie at that age, you will have to prove you are tougher than they are. It isn't very likely, because they are usually only aggressive in defence (gander of his wife and family, goose of her eggs or babies), but if you DO need to defend yourself, let the beastie come close, then take hold by the head (not to injure) and lift off its feet for several seconds. They rarely risk a second dose.

[Nicos]

take hold by the head (not to injure) and lift off its feet for several seconds. They rarely risk a second dose.

OK- that's really useful to know!
When you say head- do you mean around the neck just below the head?
If it's a one off then I'm sure it's well worth the risk!!

Ohhh...getting excited again now!

[Hilary B]

OK- that's really useful to know!
When you say head- do you mean around the neck just below the head?
If it's a one off then I'm sure it's well worth the risk!!

Ohhh...getting excited again now!

It's hard to describe the grip in detail, basically your hand should be to the back of the goose's head, thumb should be where on a mammal it would be 'below the jaw', and fingers on the other side at same level. You shouldn't get hold right around the neck.

[Nicos]

It's hard to describe the grip in detail, basically your hand should be to the back of the goose's head, thumb should be where on a mammal it would be 'below the jaw', and fingers on the other side at same level. You shouldn't get hold right around the neck.

OK- got it! ( sort of covering the eyes and the beak pointing towards your elbow??)

...and ooooo..it's nearly tomorrow morning ( market day!!!!)

( and DARN....I have 3 broody chooks...fingers crossed there are no fertile hens eggs for sale)